So what did you decide to do with the brush?
John
Lovely. I noticed that yours has the smoked dustcover. Here in the US we got clear dustcovers. At least mine did. I like the smoked better.
John
View attachment 1049405
I had the same issue on mine, solved with silicone deox
When I got mine the 45 RPM button was frozen and the Start button was getting close to being frozen so I squirted some DeoxIT around the perimeter of the buttons and then pressed them repeatedly until they operated normally - and then I did it some more. No disassembly or desoldering required.
Also the cuing heeded servicing and, though it isn't clear in the Service Bulletin, the SL-1401 is among the Method A models where all you need to do to renew the silicone is remove the cuing platform ("arm lift assembly") and squirt a little 300,000 cSt silicon into the arm lift cylinder.
John
Lubes and suspension critically adjusted and with felt mats and sitting on a lightweight table. This deck is superlative easily beating my 70s Linn Grace 707 combo.
Why? The suspension stays adjusted and works.
The arm bearing are superior and thus so is tracking.
I run mine with an asak with headshell weight.
By the way .... nice .... Bull head ??!
And please use a correct oil in the main bearing. I can't get the Technics recomended
So I use 10/30 full synthetic engine oil which works well. It spins for a long time and is super quiet. Like all Technics its an open bearing. A few drops every year should do it.
Lift off the platter and you can see the top lip of the bronze sleeve. I use a syringe.
And please use a correct oil in the main bearing. I can't get the Technics recomended
So I use 10/30 full synthetic engine oil which works well. It spins for a long time and is super quiet. Like all Technics its an open bearing. A few drops every year should do it.
Lift off the platter and you can see the top lip of the bronze sleeve. I use a syringe.
Why can't you get the correct oil? Kabusa sells it, and otherwise it's Anderol 465 synthetic oil.
With a bearing like that pushing 40 years old, I pull it, take it apart, and clean out all the black goo. And most of the time, yes, that's exactly what's in there. Adding oil from the top just isn't going to cut it.
Good advice for t'tables never cleaned.Why can't you get the correct oil? Kabusa sells it, and otherwise it's Anderol 465 synthetic oil.
With a bearing like that pushing 40 years old, I pull it, take it apart, and clean out all the black goo. And most of the time, yes, that's exactly what's in there. Adding oil from the top just isn't going to cut it.
A correction .It may be a brass sleeve not self lubricating sintered bronze .Ah ... I didn't see any location in your profile. Thought it might be something like that.
The single biggest improvement I made to my SL-1401 was replacing the mat with the 6mm thick mat from an SL-1200 MK2. The weight difference between the stock 3mm mat and the 1200 mat is enough to necessitate readjusting the suspension but it was well worth the trouble.
John