If you have these batteries in your remotes, you'd better check.....

Just as other audio topics go, a vast range of experiences is evident here. Sixty-plus years ago batteries were fascinating wonders that powered the very few electrical toys available then. They were an expensive luxury for middle-class families, and weren't replaced until well after the toy or flashlight quit working. Hell, as long as Dad's flashlight would still produce a dull, orange, glow, the batteries stayed in - often until they leaked. I still appreciate the convenience of not being tethered to an AC cord and wait for super-sales to bulk purchase alkaline cells, both domestic and foreign. Cheap, foreign cells sometimes lasted as long as domestics, without any from a box of 50 ever leaking, while ALL brands of American batteries have had new ones leaking in the box, in the store. These were all well within the expiration period. Of course, this also happened with the cheap foreign cells too, but no more often in my experience.

After all that time, in my limited experience, ALL brands have leaked. When alkaline cells became first available, they were more reliable than the old carbon-zincs I grew up with. Now, I wouldn't count on any alkaline, and as other posters mentioned, I use rechargeable NiMH with a MAHA charger, or lithium primary and rechargeables. I've stuck with the Sanyo/Duracell brand for NiMH; without one leaker in the past 10 years. Panasonic has produced above average batteries, but I haven't tried them again lately, If a lithium cell should leak, it won't harm the metal contacts, AFAIK. To insure my better electronics survive, plus remotes & emergency lights, I use lithium. For high-drain items, NiMH cells are economical.
 
Just checked my collection of "secondary" remotes ("primaries" are all on Fujitsu rechargeables) and found two AAAs out of the four installed in my SACD player's remote just starting to leak. Looks like I need to spin "Chameleon" more than once a year. Timely thread, thanks for posting (and adding to) it. Oh, the casualties were Duracell Coppertops (about 75% of what was installed).
 
Rayovac. c'mon, I dare you to knock it off!

Robert Conrad, right? Had forgotten about those ads... Funny about that RayOVac line, I bought a bulk pack of 36 RayOVac AAA alkalines for remotes, wireless mice and similar small stuff, didn't have a problem with any of them. RayOVac Fusion (long-life) for my outdoor thermometer, no issues. Most of the time I use Energizer and Eneloop rechargables, no issues.

I wish I could say that there was an identifiable trend in the batteries that have leaked in my gear (usually radios), but while I know some were Duracells, not all were.
 
After some more disappointments, I am trying Panasonic now. As from the past, whatever this brand made, being it electronic parts or bpc video players or my LCD TV (which is about ten years now) stuff seems to last. I will know withing a few years.
I Have had Panasonic batteries leak many times. At my last job we did a battery life test comparing Duracell Copper Top, Energizer, and Panasonic Industrial. Duracell was the best, with Panasonic coming in dead last. This was with our device which had a 90mA load, but it had a switcher in it so when the batteries got lower the current went up. I can't remember what it maxed out at, I am thinking 180mA or so.
 
Ray O's were the least expensive when carbon-zinc was the only consumer chemistry sold and were the least reliable - back in the dark ages. The Madison made Ray-O alks have been very reliable in my own, unscientific, experience. That seems to have moved South a little, ever since the company moved south. No worse than the other domestic brands, however.
 
There was thread about this not too long ago. I've had a lot of batteries leak, so I took all the batteries out of my audio remotes.
 
I've had less-than-great experiences with Ray-O-Vac alkalines. Not always due to leakage, mind you; I once had an early '90s portable CD player refuse to turn on after installing brand new Ray-O-Vac AAs. They tested fine with a meter, and installing different batteries got the CD player working again. Still not sure why it happened. :dunno:

As far as Duracell batteries go, I've had mixed results with them. While I've had a number of them leak on me, I don't think think it's too much more common than with other brands I've used. By far, the worst batteries I've had as far as leakage goes were branded "Berkeley-Jensen", the house brand of BJs Wholesale. I've had them puke their guts out well before the use-by date, even in low drain applications like quartz wall clocks. Very nasty. :rant:
-Adam
 
All alkaline batteries leak, it's in their nature.
They also swell as they age, and have ruined many MagLite flashlights as they swell and get stuck in the metal tubes.

Doesn't matter what brand or size...all alkaline batteries swell and leak.

Rechargeable NiCad's are nice...but they're only 1.2 volts whereas Alkaline's are 1.5 volts. So NiCad's don't work for everything.

Lithium batteries are another option. Their added cost should be considered before changing everything over to Lithium's.

Check the chart and datasheets. Things to look for are volts and mAh.
http://www.energizer.com/batteries/battery-comparison-chart
http://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nh15-2300.pdf
http://data.energizer.com/pdfs/lithiuml91l92_appman.pdf

I'll bet everyone reading this thread has a drawer in their house filled with batteries but isn't sure if they're all good. I recommend you get a cheap Battery Tester like this and keep it in your "Battery Drawer":
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They're cheap ($5-$6) and make great Stocking Stuffers. I bought 30 of them last year and gave them as gifts.

One of these belongs in every "Battery Drawer".
 
I get the distilled water and Deoxit part, but whats with the rice? :dunno:
You *need* the white vinegar scrub first to neutralize the alkaline contaminant, then the distilled water rinses. Dry with a blowout and gentle heat, a hair dryer on low heat without overheating the thing will work. Use DeOxit after thorough cleaning and drying, as described if desired only on metal to metal contacts, not the keypad.
 
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I use the free DVMs that Harbor freight was giving away for battery testing on that function.
 
My tester cost around $5 and my battery drawer is a mess!
I had one of those organizers with tester and thought it was a clever idea. Unfortunately, no one else in the house embraced the concept.
So we're back to the drawer and tester.
The tester is dedicated, no switches or test leads. No confusion and cheap.
 
read the manual .. p.s i was shocked at the corrosion caused by cells that worked a few months ago . copper tops as well . might have had testing strips too ..didnt look too hard when i threw them away .
 
We should just go back to 13 channels......LOL. That battery tray is a neat little deal. Opening the wallet :).
 
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