IMF International TLS 80's new owner!! Restoration to begin !

I agree with the brave and handy! good work so far, you are setting examples for us! Did the seller of the voice coils recommend any particular types of glue to use? Do you have new coils and domes, or is it one assembled unit?
 
you are brave and handy! good combo for DIY work like this.

check with falcon to get the caps you need for the crossover. http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/ they have caps with the right values (including ESR) so crossovers will work as designed. sometimes they are a bit slow getting back to you but it is a very small operation.

Thanks ! I plan on sourcing the caps myself from Partsconnexion in Hamilton CA. Its only about an hour drive from me. I need some other parts for other projects.
Solon and Clarity caps have worked well for me in other projects. I may try the Duland Resistors as well, might even upgrade to better indictors, who knows at this point. :)

I agree with the brave and handy! good work so far, you are setting examples for us! Did the seller of the voice coils recommend any particular types of glue to use? Do you have new coils and domes, or is it one assembled unit?

No they didn't recommend what glue to use. I usually use Aleen's craft glue for speakers. But Not sure how it will work with
the plastic dome diaphragm . I might have to use just regular Testors model glue. But I think the original used double sided tape that was pre cut
to size and shape. But I like the glue method as I was able to slide the dome around to have it line up with the D shaped cut outs on the card board frame.

The dome/diaphragm and coil are all one assembly, unlike the HF-1300 where I had to remove the old coil and align the new one to the old diaphragm.


I'll try to take another picture showing the dome/Coil assembly. hard to catch since its a clear plastic .

Athanasios
 
The theory behind using falcon for caps is they can get caps with the same ESR. Modern caps like you mention will change the sound in ways the designer of the crossover did not intend. Sometimes this works out for the better, however, the IMFs have pretty good crossover designs.
 
Well the craft glue didn't hold as I had feeling it wouldn't on the plastic dome.
So I had some double sided duck tape that has a mesh pattern. I tried that and soldered the leads to the
card board Guide.

I will have to use the tape to adhere it to the magnet as well I think. I used the old dome as a template. Not a perfect cut but the
metal cover will hide it all anyhow ;)

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Nashou
 
Hi,Athanasios you don't have to take out the box covering the tweeter, a center screw hold the HF 2000 in place, I have already remove mine and change for a complete one. It will be more safe to work on it.Nice job by the way!

Yvan
 
Hi, I remember the screw is a flat head, because of restrain place I use a thumb screwdriver,short one.
 
Ok I got the speaker motor out. Mine had a Philips screw.

This time I used the old double sided tape as a template.

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I then adhered the tape to the brown elevating washer or platform or what ever you want to call it ;)

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Then I pulled off the tape paper to reveal the adhesive .

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Then I decided to customize it a little. If ever in the event these leave my possesion some one in the future may find this thread and Know where they came from ;)

Center magnet painted black with a IMF letters :D

I will also paint the remainder black but leave the dome clear of course ;)

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I hooked them up to my LCR meter with the frequency signal and could hear the 1khz tone. So another successful tweeter repair.


Athanasios



 
HI,on the edge to keep the black cardboard paper straight,glue the edge with "Gorilla" glue, the dome install with double side tape. The lead wire seems bigger than the original one and is install under the melinex dome,usually celestion have smaller lead wire and go true the edge on top of the melinex flange.It's important the dome to be solidly press down on is complete flat surface to keep the cardboad straight because the change of outside temperature have a tendency to curve. Athanasios, great job and not easy to do.
Yvan
 
The original cardboard with the lead wire rivet that you solder to was already warped and curled.
I had to moisten it and bend it back to its original flatness. I used the clamps to keep it that way.

I have some Testors plastic cement that has a consistency of water. It should soak into the paper and help add rigidity
once it dries. I installed mine different than what they showed on the sellers listing. But it does work. I will alter how I do it the next time.
I will put the tape on the top of the Melinex flange and fit it under the paper frame.

This is how they do it.

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Athanasios
 
Hi,maybe spray clear lacquer or clear varnish the cardboard on both side before installing the melinex dome will help to keep it protected from humidity,or a coat of the dope (both side) they use on paper cone?me I always think of using in other material instead of the carboard,like thin cork, mylar or other material the same thickness as cardboard but who is not affect by change of temperature.
 
Hi,even tin plastic laminate like Formica. Or putting the center section melinex dome separate from the section past the 4 little half moon post.and covering the rest with anything similar material.
 
My Cross Overs.

Not many lytic caps on there , only three. Five 2.2 uf Films and a .47 uf Film. and one 15 ohm 5 watt resistor. I would need to remove the inductors and measure them.
But I will not change those at all . What are the color codes on the inductors for? Does any one know?





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Ok the attempt to paint it looked horrible. So I had to find something to cover it so it looks nice and professional.
Lucky for me the near by hardware store had just what i needed!! A washer of the same size OD and ID !! And Rubber!!!!

:D

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Once I have the Speakers working well. The exterior will be the final touch !

But I kinda like the " sleeper " look of a beat up speaker that sound amazing!!!

Dexter Gordons GO ! is playing right now.

Nice!!!

Nashou
 
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Very nice work! The tweeter replacements have gone well for you. Thanks for your posts, it's good to have this information.

For the crossovers, be sure to replace the electrolytics. They are well beyond their shelf life and do not age very well. Your 80s will sound much better after.
 
Very nice work! The tweeter replacements have gone well for you. Thanks for your posts, it's good to have this information.

For the crossovers, be sure to replace the electrolytics. They are well beyond their shelf life and do not age very well. Your 80s will sound much better after.


Thanks for the words of encouragement and praise. That keeps me motivated !! ;)

I drove up to Partsconnexion today to get some parts, they didn't have what I needed, so I got ordered some parts. But then realized I should have just gone to Falcon. SO from Partsconnexion I ended up getting some resistors for my Yamaha A-1 and A-3 amps, the Audio Gold Ohmite's .47 ohm emitter resistors, and they had the 15 ohm ones for the cross overs, I also got the 100uf 100vdc Mundorf caps. And 60f Jensens. But F@#K !! I got home and realized I had a brain fart ! The Jensen's were polar!!! Ugh!!!!!!! Any one need some 60f 100vdc Jensen's ;)

SO From Falcon I got all the 2,2uf in Solen's, the .47uf in Clarity's, and for the 60uf cap I decided to go parallel with 30 uf Alcap's and 30 uf Solen's .

I also ordered some Canberra Gel to spray on the foam to kill the mold and mildew smell. My sinuses were killing me after an hour listening session.

Athanasios
 
Hi.Athanasios so your prepare yourself to do your X-over, keep you busy and will improve your listening sessions, That's great!
 
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