Is this normal?

I hope it truly will become solved. You really have had bad luck with this unit and you've gone through a lot of trouble to get it working already. Hope your efforts will pay off.
Did you perform the same bypass tests for the uA703 ICs? You do that by very carefully touching the legs of the appropriate resistors with a film capacitor. See attachment.
During test, tune-in to strongest FM station you receive. If the signal strength meter needle swings some during the bypass, it may indicate the IC may not be amplifying the signal correctly.

TR2025-ua703Test.jpg
 
Nick, problem with the potentiometer has been solved now, took me some time but its working as it should now. Same resistant now on both the channeles when turning the volume knob. Both the speaker working again :) I could use some result because it take a lot of stamina to get this machine running properly again :) For bypassing the uA703 IC's, do I also need a 1uF electrolytic capacitor? Oh, and many thanks, your help is much appriciated!
 
Nice work. Let's hope that volume pot is corrected for good!

Don't use electrolytic, use a small value ceramic or film capacitor. I used 10nf value ceramic capacitor for both (ICs & Ceramic Filters) bypass tests.
During the bypass test in my unit signal strength only weakened on a strong station, which indicates my unit have functioning uA703 ICs.
 
Well, pin 14 on the TDA 1047 is sitting low and that's directly related to the signal strength meter drive circuit. I'd be suspicious about C209, 22uF electrolytic. If it's shorting that would pull this pin low.

What voltages do you read on either side of the center tuning meter? Does that meter move if you adjust R236, the variable pot for setting center point?

Also pin 15 is sitting high, and I don't see a likely cause for that. Could be the IC isn't healthy. Remember this is also the IF amplifier, so if it's out you aren't getting sufficient signal into the stereo decoder.

I think pin 1 voltage label for the MC1310P is wrong in the schematic, probably. If you trace the line from that pin, it passes the filter cap C801, then series resistor R808 47 ohm and then ties directly to the 14V +/- 2V output from Q202 that supplies B+ to this part of the tuning circuitry. That ties to the datasheet layout. BTW you can look at a circuit description for the MC1310P here: http://www.circuitstoday.com/stereo-decoder-circuit

The high reading at pin 6 is consistent with no stereo, that pin goes low when stereo is detected. BTW, keep in mind that these use an LED for a stereo indicator and it's ridiculously easy to plug the LED into the 2-pin harness backwards; doesn't break anything usually but worth unplugging the connector from the LED briefly to see if it is connected with the correct polarity.

I'd check C209, probably could just remove it temporarily and see if that brings the signal up and causes any meter activity. After that I'd probably try replacing the TDA 1047.

Mr. Nick, here's where we don't see quite eye-to-eye: it's bad practice to start replacing components in a device with no probable cause other than they are old, particularly in a non-functional part of a device. You simply introduce more variables to the process of tracking down the root cause (even if it's done correctly), and almost certainly introduce new issues if it's not done correctly. The exception to that in my mind is when the technician is very familiar with the specific device being serviced and has repeatedly found that failures are caused by mass component aging, then a blanket part update may be justifiable. I don't know whether you're at that point with this model (or series of models, the FM tuners are almost identical across the range) but I've never had to replace ALL of the caps to make one work, in fact I can't remember the last time I found a single cap failing in the tuner such that the tuner was non-functional to the extent this one is. Other areas like the power amp, preamp, regulator circuit, yes - but not the FM tuner. Same for the ceramic filters, by the way, I have never had to replace one over the past ~15 years of working on these as a specialty.

It may well turn out that a bad cap is responsible here, but since Peter has shown good ability to take direction and look for issues at the component level, and overall is making decent progress towards tracking down the specific issue, I'm of the opinion he should pursue that to a logical end and not just start throwing parts at it simply because the originals are now getting on in age. If he first gets the tuner working well and then wants to recap to help add some preventive measure towards the future reliability, that's a different discussion.

John


I did some measuring this morning on both the IC's. I double checked the measured voltages and I think there is something seriously wrong with the voltage on pin 1 of the 1310 IC. It reads 12,58V where as the manual read 1,5V! The other values on the 1310 ICseem to be reasonable?? The values on the TDA 1047 seem on some pins a bit out, but I don't have the knowledge to judge this. Hope these figures will help solving the problem. I am very curious what you think of it.
 
Hi John, thanks again mate!! I will perform your suggestions this afternoon and see if there is any result. Thanks for your kind words (has shown good ability to take direction and look for issues at the component level) I must say I am starting to enjoy this journey more and more, and although I am not that young anymore, startt learning a lot. To be honest I am thinking of buying me a very cheap old broken amplifier and start "fiddling" with it untill it works again, think thats the best way of learning the basis electornics. BUT FIRST, I need this machine up and running again. Man, I love this Tandberg machine! I noticed, while looking at a youtube movie (
) at point 1:49 the owner turns the tuning knob and the left meter (signal) is moving a lot. Mine only moves when pushing one of the preset buttons....................... Think with your help, it my beautifull Tandberg will work just like that quite soon :) Will keep you posted.

First update: Found out the C233 capacitor on my board is an electrolytic capacitor instead of a bipolar one as is on the service manual. Could this trigger any problem as well?
 
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John, you may have missed out some of my earlier posts due this issue is split in different threads.
What experience have taught me over the years is that voltage measurement from a certain point does not
necessarily mean the previous or the next component in line have failed.

It's obvious not all of those capacitors sitting at FM decoder stage play a role in that issue.
while it's always recommended to replace capacitors over 25 years of service you make sure with replacing them
that the most probable cause, quickest and cheapest option is checked. You may spend hours taking voltage measurements from
locations still going nowhere with that. Replacing parts one by one.
Replace one capacitor and measure again voltages and scratch your head to grow another grey hair.

There's a risk always that person performing the maintenance gets the capacitor wrong way and causes more issues.
There's also risk you slip the multimeter probe during various voltage checks and cause more issues.

By the way, I searched the Audiokarma forum for TDA 1047 IC. This is thread is the only matching thread for the search.
It's very unlikely that TDA 1047 check out bad in Peter's unit, while it's not impossible.
More likely is the fairly notorious uA703 IC or one or more electrolytic capacitors that have failed or even a bad solder joint.
 
Peter, I checked my unit for C233. I have a ceramic capacitor there.
Are you sure it's indeed C233 you identified as electrolytic? That should have only 22nF capacitance.
 
Nick, indeed I am pretty sure, just take a look. I did take this picture first time I openend the case. It is a 22nF, could this trigger a problem?
 

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Now you're onto something!!
I can see from the picture that capacitor C219 (2.2uF) is also missing.

I think what you see as C233 is actually C215. At least according to the schematic.
There must be an error in the schematic because there are two capacitors under C233, see that?

Checked, I have ceramic capacitor there where you have "C233".
So remove that electrolytic and put 22nF ceramic capacitor (C215) in place of it.
Install 2.2uF electrolytic capacitor to the place of C219. Pay attention to the polarity.

That "C233" you see as 22nF, might actually be 22uF. Remove and check.
 

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Nick, thanks. I already noticed that C219 is missing. BUT, is on your board at that place a 2.2 uF? I have looked at other picture from another owner and the C219 was also missing???? (see picture)
As to the misreading 22nF instead of 22uF, you are right, I misread.
 

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Yes, I have 2.2uF electrolytic installed into C219 designated spot.
If you read schematic, both versions pre and post (serial 185xxx) should have it installed.
Almost you can remove the wrong "C233" electrolytic, because someone performing maintenance before your ownership have messed up.
Replace it with 22nF ceramic capacitor. Ceramic capacitors can be installed in both ways, since this type of capacitor is not polarized and leave C219 empty at least for now.

Here, have a look. I took a snap photo from my unit.
C209 = 22uF
C219 = 2.2uF
"C233" = 22nF
 

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So I think I really don't know what to do anymore. What did I do sofar, replaced ALL electrolytic capacitors on the FM board, replaced the two IC's (1047 and 1310) this morning with new ones, did the C209 = 22uF, C219 = 2.2uF and "C233" = 22nF. I hooked up the machine to a coax cable with plenty of signal, replaced the led and made sure it was connected in the right way, adjusted R236, the variable pot for setting center point (no movement of the needle) , voltage on the center tuning meter (measured from ground) both sides 2,23V. I have checked C209, removed it temporarily and no difference in signal or meter activity. Replaced the BC547B transistors. Still no action in the meters nor in the led nor getting any stereo sound. Think this becomes some kind of nightmare :)
 
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None of those options worked out then, huh! Tandberg magic still keeps you on the holding pattern.
Did you ever perform bypass tests of the uA703 ICs and ceramic filters with a small ceramic capacitor? See post #21
If you didn't, my bet is on them!
 
I could not stop and found out that the connector J203 made some bad connection. I made a connection directly from the underside of the board onto the signal meter and it started moving! Als if I adjust R236, the meter responded :) . Although the meter does not move from one side of the scale to the other side, I am quite happy something is finally working. Think the best thing now is to check all connectors on the board to see if they also fail partly or have some internal resistance.
@ Nick, yes I did perform the bypass test, without succes.
 
Nice. Treat all connectors with deoxit spray and ensure all the connectors have good contact with continuity mode of your multimeter.
Finally some progress! Good to hear that.
 
I've gone over these threads.. we are talking the TR-2025? if so what serial number? Seems the service manual references diff. Sn's and tuner service.
 
The thread doesn't definitively state the model number anywhere, but with a little sleuthing it is clear the type is the TR-2005, but with an undefined serial number. I had been wondering the same thing.
 
Sorry folks, indeed Tandberg TR 2025, serial number on the back of the case not readable anymore but due to the fact of the type IC's used must be serialnumber after 1853022 (acc. to manual)
 
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