JBL Decade L26

Try ZilchPlugz to extend L26 bass. You may have to back the highs down a bit, as well. Don't try to rock the house with them that way, tho.

125A is actually a closed-box driver, according to the T/S parameters.... :yes:
 
Cast Baskets vs. Pressed?

I believe one of the reasons there is a difference between JBL Decade series and the Big Advents is the woofers. The JBL Decade series had cast baskets and the Big Advents had pressed baskets. Thus, the JBLs' sound is fuller and more evenly dispersed.

JBL knew what they were doing by evenly matching the size of the cabinets, woofers and tweeters. The porthole was strategically placed in the cabinet for efficiency.

If you do some research on any of the high end speakers from the 1970s and earlier they all had cast baskets. And, to this day they are sought after and will command a hefty price.

For example, the Baby Advents vs. the Big Advents. The Baby Advents are a far superior speaker to that of it's big brother the Big Advents. Why? The Baby Advents had cast baskets. A smaller speaker with a warmer sound. That is why there is such a demand for them today.

I own a pair of the L-26s and a pair of the L-36s and I am playing them through my Marantz 2270. The Marantz 2270 loves the JBLs. The 2270 has more than enough power for both pair of JBL and then some. At a lower volume the JBLs have a richer, warmer, and fuller sound than that of the Big Advents.

If you ever go to a Vintage Stereo Shop how many pair of JBL do you see sitting on the shelf?
 
Hello, I'm new to this place and found this thread while researching JBL L26. I bought a pair at a flea market not too long ago, and the voice coils were rubbing and sounded really scratchy when I bought them (even tho the foam surrounds were in perfect shape and pliable). The first thing that came to mind is that they were blown and unrepairable... After a while I kept thinking to myself maybe they needed to be re-aligned properly. So, I bought some new foam surrounds and realigned the voice coils. I am happy to say they sound fantastic now!

Now here is my question, (and this may have already been covered in some other thread. If so, I am sorry), but, What is the difference between JBL "Decade L26" and "Model L26". Also, which one is older than the other? Mine are both Model L26 (they do not say Decade). Please someone let me know, as I have looked everywhere without luck.
 
Ok, from looking at those 2 schematics above, it looks like mine are the L26A version (because mine have the LE25-4 tweeters). And looking at those other 2 bottom links, I am still not seeing anything as far as referring to which came first, "Model L26" or "Decade L26". They both still say "Decade" in the titles...... Someone please -Tell- me which came first, instead of sending me to another page. Thanks. That is all I ask, and please forgive my incompetence :p
 
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If there is an "A" at the end of the serial number, they are L26As, which would be later.

It would appear they are identical except for the tweeter.... :dunno:
 
L26 = 125a
L26a = 125h?

...nope. I can't find any record of a 125H. I thought I had alnico and ceramic 125's at one point, but they must've been 127's.
 
I was just gonna say, not necessarily, Clmrt. I just checked mine, & both serial #s end with "A", but both have 125A LF drivers, & both have LE25-4 HF drivers. The woofers sure look alnico, but the tweeters, not so much. Oh, these ones don't say Decade anywhere, just JBL Model L26, so pretty much the same as Raddeks..
 
Does the non-A (L26) have a silver-trimmed tweeter? Maybe when they went to the matching tweeter the went with the "A" designation.

A for Asthetic.
 
I'm not totally sure what you mean by silver trim. The edge of the basket frame on the tweeters is aluminum, just like on the woofers, but the thinnish black felt-looking thing is still well-glued, & I don't feel real inclined to lift it. ;) Oh, the square panel that the basket is mounted on is black, in case that's what you mean.
 
Ok, from looking at those 2 schematics above, it looks like mine are the L26A version (because mine have the LE25-4 tweeters). And looking at those other 2 bottom links, I am still not seeing anything as far as referring to which came first, "Model L26" or "Decade L26". They both still say "Decade" in the titles...... Someone please -Tell- me which came first, instead of sending me to another page. Thanks. That is all I ask, and please forgive my incompetence :p

I believe there's three categories:

1) "Decade 26" came first. They'll say Los Angeles, CA at the bottom of the foilcal with LE25-2 tweets.

2) Early "A" models have LE25-4, but continued using "Decade 26" labels with an "A" added to the end of the serial number.

3) Later "A" models began using "Model L26" labels that say Northridge, CA.


Same goes for other models, e.g.

"Century"
"Century" with "A" serial numbers
"Model L100" with "A" serials

"Horizon"
"Horizon" with "A" serial
"Model L166" still "A"

Note JBL did offer replacement foilcals, so there might be exceptions that don't fit these categories.
 
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Aha, that makes sense now, especially about the LE25-4 coming in later models. Thanx much, I'm less confused now, & I'm sure Raddek is too. :thmbsp:
 
I have "Decade 36" with "A" serial numbers and also "Horizon" with "A", and both had the old crappy spring-loaded posts on back.

So I'd guess the not-quite-so-crappy twist-lock posts would coincide with the "Model L26" Northridge foilcals.

Of course, on any given day they might have used whatever they had onhand to keep the production line moving.

My "Model L50" are a mismatched pair with serial numbers quite far apart. Although they're both "A" the older one has it stamped into the foil while the newer one is printed.
 
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All this information has helped me a lot. Thanks everyone. Here is a little information on my JBL Model L26 speakers: Both cabinets have 125A Woofers and LE25-4 Tweeters. Serials 288826A and 288586A. Both say Northbridge California. Both have the twist-locking wire connections on the back (which I do not like so much :p). They have the dark brown grills, but I wish they had the orange or white ones, only because it would be unique. The only notable visual difference I can see, is the cone colors of the woofers. One woofer has a really dark gray cone and dustcap. The other woofer is a bit lighter gray in color, and the dust cover is even lighter gray. Also, on the woofer with the lighter colored cone, around the outer edge it looks as if the foam surround could be installed on the outside of the cone, because it is smooth around the outer edge (right now it is glued to the inside of the cone). The other darker colored woofer is not like this. I guess a serial difference of 240 would be enough to have that sort of change in the drivers? I will attempt to upload pictures to see the difference. It is kinda hard to see the difference in colors of the cones with pictures, but the difference is there.


HPIM8908.jpg
HPIM8909.jpg
 
I owned a pair years ago and thought they were really a very enjoyable speaker. It's been a while since I heard them but based on my memory they are one of those speakers that just has a "rightness" to them. Like all speakers they are not without compromises but if you set them up correctly on stands with decent electronics they get the important things like balance, dynamics,acceptable imaging and soundstaging. I've owned more sophistcated and expensive speakers that don't get these simple things right.
They are probably better than a lot of the bigger JBL's from their time period.
I tend to think that they would be a great speaker for people that like smaller tube amps as they are very easy to drive.
Mike
Mike
 
I just purchased a pair of JBL L26 speakers from a CL add. They cost me $60. Truthfully these are my first set of "real" speakers. These things are heavy and I couldn't wait to get them home. Upon hooking them up to my Tandberg 2080 I immediately noticed a rattle through the woofer of one of the speakers. Help! What does this mean. Was I taken advantage of on this deal. Any suggestions on a low cost fix for a novice?
 
I immediately noticed a rattle through the woofer of one of the speakers. Help! What does this mean. Was I taken advantage of on this deal. Any suggestions on a low cost fix for a novice?
Could be an improper re-surround of the woofer is the culprit. Do you have photos? Does it do it all the time or only at high volume? You could try rotating the woofer 180º (turn the cabinet upside down to test) but that's a wing and a prayer repair. If it's not irreparably damaged from playing like that, you could have the surround replaced and the voice-coil aligned properly.
 
If you had to decide between the L26 and Dynaco A25 which would you choose? and why?

I have both speakers right in front of me and have been a/b'ng them oddly enough.....

Not sure where to start without knowing your music preference and amp....mine is an old mac 250 and 50's jazz, 70's classic rock and metal.........but the short answer is that these two speakers are about as different as two pair can be. My own opinion of course, as is all that follows.......

The dynaco is my favorite, but I don't listen at high volumes any more (damn tinitus - no frequency loss just ringggggggg). At low to moderate levels, the dynacos are extremely musical, capturing alot of the subtle qualities in the midrange. Bass is not super punchy but highly enjoyable, treble is not super extended but again, very pleasant and captures qualities rather than quantity...... Obviosuly not hi-fi speakers in any way and again, that's fine with me. Hifi strips out the mids imo and reveals more, but at the expense of musical enjoyment....... in my 30 years of listening experience.

The JBL can rock out harder and louder, but does not have the midrange quality I look for. I guess others call it the west coast boom and sizzle sound and I can see where that reputation came from. But still a really cool speaker in its own way and quite enjoyable as long as you aren't scrutinizing while listening. 'SWL' is a common affliction that creeps up from behind ......... If the JBLs weren't so large, I'd probably hang on to them but will probably craigslist them soon since space is at a premium for me.

To make the JBL's work for me I have to turn the treble control down to -2 or so....almost the end of it's function (it offers a range of +3 tp -3). I find the tweeter to be the week link in this speaker and was toying with the idea of swapping it out, but ran out of interest.
 
Could be an improper re-surround of the woofer is the culprit. Do you have photos? Does it do it all the time or only at high volume? You could try rotating the woofer 180º (turn the cabinet upside down to test) but that's a wing and a prayer repair. If it's not irreparably damaged from playing like that, you could have the surround replaced and the voice-coil aligned properly.

Thanks for your help. Yes, 'rattle' occurs at all volumes. especially pronounced at lower volumes which is unbearable. I will post pictures tomorrow. Digital camera is a my office.
 
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