I'd like to build a pair of L300s, have the drivers I want to use, does anyone know where I can get accurate drawings/plans for the L300 Summit?
JBL L300 Summit plans / drawings?
- Thread starter SaturationPt
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faber12
Addicted Member
If you ever make it to Ohio, stop by.
I’m no fan of that speaker, I think they sound tubby and veiled and are no match for the Altec 19 or Klipsch Cornwall. The speaker has first rate guts but was poorly executed and voiced. A buddy offered me a reconditioned pair for 800 bucks and I took a pass.
Can't disagree with this. However, if one were to expand the cabinet a bit, throw an 8"-10" woofer in there for the upper bass/lower midrange, and revise the crossovers, you can make a very nice sounding speaker and largely overcome these flaws. Essentially, you could build the "JBL L400" that was planned in 1975, but never came to pass. The horn will still have a certain "peakiness" to it though.
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faber12
Addicted Member
The resale value alone should have made you take him up on that steal of a deal. I question your sanity Sir.
The resale value alone should have made you take him up on that steal of a deal. I question your sanity Sir.
Better insanity than cupidity. I knew their value and didn’t give a damn about it or reselling them, I didn’t want to use them. It would be unseemly to take a good deal offered from friendship with the intention of turning a profit from that generosity.
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faber12
Addicted Member
Point taken, I apologise if I offended.
I would also feel the same way, except that I would keep them and use them if at all possible, as I love mine.
I had hoped that my '
' would have avoided any bad feelings here. Your behavior is above reproach. Mine maybe not so much. Sometimes I try to say something in jest with the result that I firmly insert my foot in my mouth.Again, I apologise and hope there will be no hard feelings.
Been there, bought a receiver from a friend, now I can't sell it.
donprice
Wound up workin' at a gas station....
Are you going to try the Nelson Pass crossover or stock? I would love to hear what modern DSP and 6 channels of amplification could do to get the most out of the drivers.
If I were a thousand miles closer I would volunteer to help with the cabs.
Good luck! We are all counting on you
If I were a thousand miles closer I would volunteer to help with the cabs.
Good luck! We are all counting on you
faber12
Addicted Member
Even worse when it was just randomly given to you for free...
I have the Nelson Pass article & schematic, have been studying it. I also have an LX13 (800Hz) crossover, was considering also a N7000 for the mid/HF crossover at 7kHz, then I have external terminals for tri-amping. However, I'm not a big fan of passive crossovers, which is what led me to 2-way and electrostats, ... I have used active crossovers and been happy with the result. I have a couple of options on 3-way active crossovers, a good DSP would be even better to avoid phase distortion entirely (I hope). I will use tubes for HF and MF and SS for the LF in this case. All are very efficient so it will be perfect for tubes.
Interesting that Nelson Pass felt that it was difficult to make much of a subjective improvement on the stock JBL crossover, or any JBL crossover though.
The other option is to do it like ESS did with two jumper strips for each driver so that the crossover is cut completely out of the circuit, which I very much like. Connect all and use one amp, connect just the HF and MF together for a bi-amp setup, or separate all and tri-amp.
Interesting that Nelson Pass felt that it was difficult to make much of a subjective improvement on the stock JBL crossover, or any JBL crossover though.
The other option is to do it like ESS did with two jumper strips for each driver so that the crossover is cut completely out of the circuit, which I very much like. Connect all and use one amp, connect just the HF and MF together for a bi-amp setup, or separate all and tri-amp.
That is my Son's problem, my Father gave him his old stereo and it is needy, the worst of it being a nice old auto-reverse Teac RtR that needs work, ... not really worth the work unless you're going to use it (and he already has his uncle's old Pioneer which is a couple of steps up).
[QUOTE="donprice, post: 12271269, member: 73556]<<snip>>If I were a thousand miles closer I would volunteer to help with the cabs.
Good luck! We are all counting on you[/QUOTE]
That would be nice. I sold all of my larger power equipment when we moved from Michigan. I'm hoping I can find a cabinet maker locally who can cut the panels for proper sealed joints. I believe however that I have time.
Good luck! We are all counting on you
[/QUOTE]That would be nice. I sold all of my larger power equipment when we moved from Michigan. I'm hoping I can find a cabinet maker locally who can cut the panels for proper sealed joints. I believe however that I have time.
twiiii
Lunatic Member
I googled JBL L-300 dimensions and found two pages giving over all dimensions but not all the small detail dimensions, but it should be enough to get you started. There was also another article on how to up date the crossover for smoother response and better transient response. The only big issue is the tweeter will not be as well protected from high power levels. I tried to down load the images but no go.
It would be easier to build the professional monitor version. Its a 4300 series monitor. 4333 as I remember. It would be much easier to build. Its a basic rectangular box. Not a a box with rounded edges and a slanted front. It does use a different woofer and is why it sounds different than an L-300 but you have the L-300 woofers so there shouldn't be that much difference. If you want to tilt the box build a slanted riser. Thats much easier.
It would be easier to build the professional monitor version. Its a 4300 series monitor. 4333 as I remember. It would be much easier to build. Its a basic rectangular box. Not a a box with rounded edges and a slanted front. It does use a different woofer and is why it sounds different than an L-300 but you have the L-300 woofers so there shouldn't be that much difference. If you want to tilt the box build a slanted riser. Thats much easier.
Thanks.
I found that Zonk has them available, has drawn them up and sells them for a nominal price on evilbay, looks like good plans for the build.
Agreed that the slanted front and radii make the cabinet a bit more complicated than the monitor version, ... but more wife friendly also. I have my speaker-designer brother over and he'll certainly give me advice also (if I ask nicely and offer good bourbon).
I figure anything worth doing is worth overdoing, ...
I found that Zonk has them available, has drawn them up and sells them for a nominal price on evilbay, looks like good plans for the build.
Agreed that the slanted front and radii make the cabinet a bit more complicated than the monitor version, ... but more wife friendly also. I have my speaker-designer brother over and he'll certainly give me advice also (if I ask nicely and offer good bourbon).
I figure anything worth doing is worth overdoing, ...
I'm thinking that if you intend to set these on the floor, the angle helps get the bass up over the couch so it doesn't get "sucked out." I seem to be fighting with this as a difference in sound between my L200 cabinets (titlted and no suck-out) and my 2241 cabinets (straight with an upper bass suck-out).
Furthermore, I've had a couple sets of the "studio monitor" cabinets, and even using the same components, the slant cabinets sounded better to my ear in my room.
Furthermore, I've had a couple sets of the "studio monitor" cabinets, and even using the same components, the slant cabinets sounded better to my ear in my room.
