jgordon’s next turntable

[JP]

100v or 120v ? 100v good chance humid from Japan if not AC all the time.

I bought it from Japan.

 

[JP]

I really don't want to hi-jack the thread, but I gotta ask.

Can you suggest an LED replacement for the strobe light?

Is something like this possible?

Is your MKII modded for LED now?

 

[majick47]

JP it was probably not exposed to humidity or salt air for long by the looks of the Mk3 in the photo, some tables I'v seen were really bad, one was a L07D from Nantucket.

 

[the_nines]

Hijack away. Otherwise it would just be me making @JP feel bad for worshiping an inferior technology.

Excellent.

 

[the_nines]

Is your MKII modded for LED now?

The previous owner had an LED attached with a resistor coming off the 5V part of the PCB:

I removed this and set up a bulb instead, like original setup:

However, the bulb is starting to flicker. Plus, I was never really happy with its overall light dispersion and brightness. Nothing at all like the strobe in the OP (pic 1).

So, I want to change back to LED and want maximum light dispersion (I'd like to see more than two or three strobe platter markings) and maximum brightness which is the reason for my question on post #16, but these are fuse-type and are 12V LED's.

 

[jgordon]

@JP made me feel bad with his public shaming so I made some progress. That's my homemade drill rig with vacuum.

 

[the_nines]

Nice!

 

[JP]

Is it running?

 

[the_nines]

Is it running?

If the question is directed at me, yes. It's running smooth as silk. Steady speed. No issues. Just looking for more vibrant strobe lighting.

 

[JP]

Sorry, for @jgordon

 

[jgordon]

Is it running?

Not running yet. Last night was the arm board. I'll mount the Shure tomorrow. Work and Jack preclude long stretches of TT work.

 

[JP]

I’d say your priorities aren’t in order, but I like Jack.

 

[JP]

Few minutes of work tonight tearing the controller down. Tomorrow, capacitor shopping!

 

[jgordon]

Few minutes of work tonight tearing the controller down. Tomorrow, capacitor shopping!

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Are there specific problems or are you doing a general refresh before calibration and diagnosis of any major issues?

 

[Thunderbox]

By the way 0.0 is for pikers. What color does it show when it's 0.000?

0.0 is exactly the same value as 0.000

 

[JP]

Are there specific problems or are you doing a general refresh before calibration and diagnosis of any major issues?

The buttons on the motor chassis don't work, and it's running really rough at faster speeds - a bit TD-124ish at 78. I don't generally recommend shotgun recaps as part of repairing specific problems, but as I'm going to do it anyway and there's little chance of me causing other issues in doing so, that'll be my first step here.

0.0 is exactly the same value as 0.000

It's correct for 0.049 to be 0.0.

 

[JP]

If the question is directed at me, yes. It's running smooth as silk. Steady speed. No issues. Just looking for more vibrant strobe lighting.

Do you remember how to mod it back to LED? I'll send you a pic of a MK3 strobe setup. Usually a perf board with multiple LEDs is easy and works best.

 

[the_nines]

Do you remember how to mod it back to LED? I'll send you a pic of a MK3 strobe setup. Usually a perf board with multiple LEDs is easy and works best.

Is it by re-attaching the wires to the 5V & N2 solder joints (my pic 1 above)?

 

[JP]

Is it by re-attaching the wires to the 5V & N2 solder joints (my pic 1 above)?

I'll look over the schematic a bit later.

 

[JP]

Technics boards have a rather annoying coating on them that loves to contaminate solder joints, so the first step is to clean it off.





Next I inspect the solder joints, and deal with any that look poor. Being anal this also includes joints with poorly formed solder filets, usually from excess solder. Having survived 30+ years they will likely never cause an issue, but they are technically improper and could cause cracking at the trace.





And then a bit of a clean-up after dealing with the caps. One down, three to go.