jgordon’s next turntable

I remember that guy - he links to one of my blog posts.

I'd go 5-6 LEDs, as diffuse as possible. On the MK3 they diffuse with a plastic piece:

IMG_0967.jpg

I also found our correspondence from back in '15 about the LED mod. This is what you did to reverse the mod to go back to neon. IIRC the 140V line was cut - I think that's the red wire at C1 (haven't looked at schematic).

  1. Remove the red jumper wire between C1 and C2.
  2. Disconnect the LED from 5V and N2.
  3. Hook the neon bulb up where you noted on your pic at diyAudio.
  4. Hook the red wire back up the plug at C1 where it was cut.
 
The buttons on the motor chassis don't work, and it's running really rough at faster speeds - a bit TD-124ish at 78. I don't generally recommend shotgun recaps as part of repairing specific problems, but as I'm going to do it anyway and there's little chance of me causing other issues in doing so, that'll be my first step here.



It's correct for 0.049 to be 0.0.
No 0.0 is a different value than 0.049 two different numbers all together. Do the math and 0 is zero no matter how many 0s there are.
 
I remember that guy - he links to one of my blog posts.

I'd go 5-6 LEDs, as diffuse as possible. On the MK3 they diffuse with a plastic piece:

View attachment 1169505

I also found our correspondence from back in '15 about the LED mod. This is what you did to reverse the mod to go back to neon. IIRC the 140V line was cut - I think that's the red wire at C1 (haven't looked at schematic).
You're right, the 140V line was cut. I reconnected it for the neon. So I'll disconnect it and feed off the 5V from the motherboard for the LED setup.

Is that a total of ten LED's in your pic?
 
I remember that guy - he links to one of my blog posts.

I'd go 5-6 LEDs, as diffuse as possible. On the MK3 they diffuse with a plastic piece:

View attachment 1169505

I also found our correspondence from back in '15 about the LED mod. This is what you did to reverse the mod to go back to neon. IIRC the 140V line was cut - I think that's the red wire at C1 (haven't looked at schematic).
If I go with 6 LED's, do I just add three more resistors like so? :

LED Strobe.jpg

:idea:
 
Last board is the front panel, which houses the infamous MN6042.

IMG_0969.jpg


Quick clean-up, recap, and then solder in the socket for the FA6042.

IMG_0972.jpg


With the FA6042, R301 need to be jumpered. I do this on the back so the original resistor is in place, in case someone wants to undo the modification.

IMG_0981.jpg


Socket in place, then FA6042 in place.

IMG_0976.jpg
IMG_0979.jpg


That's it for now. The buttons on the chassis still don't work, but that appears to be a brake in the umbilical or at the connector. We'll tackle that another day.
 
The buttons on the motor chassis don't work, and it's running really rough at faster speeds - a bit TD-124ish at 78. I don't generally recommend shotgun recaps as part of repairing specific problems, but as I'm going to do it anyway and there's little chance of me causing other issues in doing so, that'll be my first step here.



It's correct for 0.049 to be 0.0.
I've found that when tables cog at lower speeds, they get unstable at higher speeds too. In a true analogue system the curve is much smoother.
 
I misunderstood.
@JP is trying to woo me to te dark side by dangling his pretenders to the thorens throne in the hopes that I'll bite. He sold me a mkii that I have almost up and running but he's not satisfied. And likely won't be until I've taken a mkiii off his hands.
 
Back
Top Bottom