Thanks JP.I'll look over the schematic a bit later.
Thanks JP.I'll look over the schematic a bit later.
- Remove the red jumper wire between C1 and C2.
- Disconnect the LED from 5V and N2.
- Hook the neon bulb up where you noted on your pic at diyAudio.
- Hook the red wire back up the plug at C1 where it was cut.
No 0.0 is a different value than 0.049 two different numbers all together. Do the math and 0 is zero no matter how many 0s there are.The buttons on the motor chassis don't work, and it's running really rough at faster speeds - a bit TD-124ish at 78. I don't generally recommend shotgun recaps as part of repairing specific problems, but as I'm going to do it anyway and there's little chance of me causing other issues in doing so, that'll be my first step here.
It's correct for 0.049 to be 0.0.
You're right, the 140V line was cut. I reconnected it for the neon. So I'll disconnect it and feed off the 5V from the motherboard for the LED setup.I remember that guy - he links to one of my blog posts.
I'd go 5-6 LEDs, as diffuse as possible. On the MK3 they diffuse with a plastic piece:
View attachment 1169505
I also found our correspondence from back in '15 about the LED mod. This is what you did to reverse the mod to go back to neon. IIRC the 140V line was cut - I think that's the red wire at C1 (haven't looked at schematic).
Ok.That’s the MK3 - 5 green, 5 orange. It only uses 5 at a time.
If I go with 6 LED's, do I just add three more resistors like so? :I remember that guy - he links to one of my blog posts.
I'd go 5-6 LEDs, as diffuse as possible. On the MK3 they diffuse with a plastic piece:
View attachment 1169505
I also found our correspondence from back in '15 about the LED mod. This is what you did to reverse the mod to go back to neon. IIRC the 140V line was cut - I think that's the red wire at C1 (haven't looked at schematic).
I misunderstood.It's not his table.
I misunderstood.
I've found that when tables cog at lower speeds, they get unstable at higher speeds too. In a true analogue system the curve is much smoother.The buttons on the motor chassis don't work, and it's running really rough at faster speeds - a bit TD-124ish at 78. I don't generally recommend shotgun recaps as part of repairing specific problems, but as I'm going to do it anyway and there's little chance of me causing other issues in doing so, that'll be my first step here.
It's correct for 0.049 to be 0.0.