Just unexpectedly won a Rek-O-Kut B-12-H (!!)

Lemme tell ya, that Grado was making me crazy. I couldn't get it to balance correctly and the VTF readings were all over the place. Then I noticed that one of the threaded bearings was not contacting the cup and the arm wand was flopping around loose. D'oh!
Glad you sorted that out. That would drive one crazy!
 
What's the best approach to cleanly screw a ROK B12 to a wooden plinth when that plinth doesn't already have pre-drilled holes?

I want to make sure the screw goes in straight and not at an angle. Is one of the approaches below better for making sure the screws go in straight into the wood plinth?

Option 1) screw the wood screws in by hand with a manual screwdriver
Option 2) screw the wood screws in with a power drill
Option 3) start by hand with screwdriver then finish the rest with power drill
 
Carefully mark where you want the screws to go and drill a pilot hole. Use a screwdriver to hand screw in the screws. Pilot hole is smaller than the screw remember. I go shallower in the pilot hole than the length of the screw so you get a good grab. Take your time and go slow, don’t want the screwdriver to slip off the head of the screw and mar the top plate.
 
Carefully mark where you want the screws to go and drill a pilot hole. Use a screwdriver to hand screw in the screws. Pilot hole is smaller than the screw remember. I go shallower in the pilot hole than the length of the screw so you get a good grab. Take your time and go slow, don’t want the screwdriver to slip off the head of the screw and mar the top plate.

Thanks. Is there a recommended optimal bit diameter to use to create the pilot hole?
 
2/3 of the diameter of the wood screw. Or maybe a bit more in very hard wood. If it gets inordinately tight when inserting, use the next size larger bit. You don't want to strip the head when inserting.
 
Riddle me this: Hypothetically, let's say the ROK is affixed to the plinth with screws. At some point in the future, let's say the turntable needs to be removed from the wood plinth (i.e. unscrewed from plinth) for shipping or to be serviced for some reason.

In this hypothetical scenario, if the screws are unfastened from the wood plinth, can the screws later be refastened and still grip the wood 100%, or would the wood be "loose" and no longer properly "grip" the screws if they are unfastened and then refastened?

The reason I ask is a firm grip from the screws is imperative to maintain proper vibration damping, and I am wondering how many times wood plinth screws can be unscrewed and then rescrewed before vibration damping begins to suffer.

If the wood doesn't grip properly after unscrewing, would one have to use wood filler and then screw in "new" holes?
 
Last edited:
Riddle me this: Hypothetically, let's say the ROK is affixed to the plinth with screws. At some point in the future, let's say the turntable needs to be removed from the wood plinth (i.e. unscrewed from plinth) for shipping or to be serviced for some reason.

In this hypothetical scenario, if the screws are unfastened from the wood plinth, can the screws later be refastened and still grip the wood 100%, or would the wood be "loose" and no longer properly "grip" the screws if they are unfastened and then refastened?

The reason I ask is a firm grip from the screws is imperative to maintain proper vibration damping, and I am wondering how many times wood plinth screws can be unscrewed and then rescrewed before vibration damping begins to suffer.

If the wood doesn't grip properly after unscrewing, would one have to use wood filler and then screw in "new" holes?
Every time you remove and re-insert the screws, they will become a bit looser. How many times you can do this will depend upon the type of wood. If you have enough thickness, you can use inserts that take a machine screw. These are reusable indefinitely as the machine screw goes into the insert, not the wood. But you need more thickness to use the inserts. When I build a plinth for the ROK I generally make it thick enough to use inserts but this takes some extra effort because you need to allow clearance for the top plate casting ridges that protrude from the bottom of the casting. Hope that helps.
 
Every time you remove and re-insert the screws, they will become a bit looser. How many times you can do this will depend upon the type of wood. If you have enough thickness, you can use inserts that take a machine screw. These are reusable indefinitely as the machine screw goes into the insert, not the wood. But you need more thickness to use the inserts. When I build a plinth for the ROK I generally make it thick enough to use inserts but this takes some extra effort because you need to allow clearance for the top plate casting ridges that protrude from the bottom of the casting. Hope that helps.

Thanks - can you post a link (or part number) for the recommended insert part for a ROK B12?
 
When I use inserts, I glue a small block inside the location for each screw (or add a piece around the entire inside) but low enough to clear the ridge on the casting. Then the insert will go low enough to clear the ridge. This necessitates a longer screw - more like 1". It's easier to see this than describe it.
 
When I use inserts, I glue a small block inside the location for each screw (or add a piece around the entire inside) but low enough to clear the ridge on the casting. Then the insert will go low enough to clear the ridge. This necessitates a longer screw - more like 1". It's easier to see this than describe it.

Great info! Do you have any photos handy you that would be happy to post here to better illustrate your approach?
 
McMaster.com p/n 9001A6007 - you might also purchase the bit to insert and reduce the risk. You'll then need some oval head 6-32 x .5" machine screws instead of the wood screws. McMaster has these too.

The McMaster website is not showing that part number: "No matches were found for "9001A6007."
 
90016A007

Thanks!
  • Is a pilot hole required to screw in the insert? Or can you just screw in the insert with a bit with no pilot hole?
  • Will a machine screw inside an insert damp motor vibration to the same degree as a wood screw threaded directly into wood?
 
Thanks!
  • Is a pilot hole required to screw in the insert? Or can you just screw in the insert with a bit with no pilot hole?
  • Will a machine screw inside an insert damp motor vibration to the same degree as a wood screw threaded directly into wood?
Yes, a hole is required for the insert. The McMaster website will tell you the hole size. If not, you want the hole to be large enough that the threads on the insert grip the wood but not so tight that you break the insert trying to install it.

It's not the screw that provides the damping but rather the coupling to the plinth. The machine screw/insert will hold as tight or tighter than a simple wood screw.
 
Back
Top Bottom