Jvc QL-Y7

brunomarcs

Well-Known Member
I bought this in 85’ or 86’ for 50 bucks at a pawn shop. It worked good until I destroyed the stylus around 1991. It’s been stored ever since and am just now getting her back on her feet. It’s in good condition other than the front veneer. I’m buying a cart from a guy on here and I would like to add some height to the sides, a thicker bottom and re-veneer. Is this TT worth the effort?
 

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Yes by all means ... if the servo-controlled tonearm is all functional, because not a simple matter to repair if it isn't. I'd get the cartridge (or at least use the old cart or add some weight to the headshell to mimic a cartridge) and confirm that everything is operating correctly before tearing it apart to address cosmetics.

My personal opinion is a thicker bottom board ... by all means if you can adapt the feet to work. But be wary of altering the overall look of the turntable ... don't take it too far from stock and risk ruining the value of the table.
 
There is another model of this jvc which has a deeper side and just plain looks better. This one is too thin and should be an inch taller. If I tried to build a new plinth it would still be rather hollow for all the electronics, question is do all these connections plug in? They sure look like they do.
 
As Van_Isle says, yes if everything works. I had the QL-Y55, it was mint and great. As for the bottom, I'd just leave it off. Thin ones resonate so we put thicker ones in, which resonate less — but no bottom doesn't resonate at all. Their only purpose is to attach feet, and keep spiders and mice out.
 
I’ve put it back together after spraying deoxit into the pots. All tone arm movements work as they should, it’s really a nice TT. The only damage is pictured here.
 

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And right in front. What a shame. I'd want to fix that too. BTW, if the amp in your avatar is the Yamaha M-series, it's a great one. I had the M-85; I wasn't expecting it to be so good. A beautiful way with music, dynamics and delicacy, and all the power a sane man needs. It could drive the huge power-hungry Mirage M3s to rock concert levels effortlessly, and a Mozart Trio with finesse.
 
I’m looking at a cocobolo piece ran around the bottom like this. It would be made like the trim on the left only smaller. Remove the bottom 1/4” board, install a 1” thick strip 4” wide back and front to attach the new feet to of which I can turn those out of cocobolo or another exotic sp.
 

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Ok so I have an older cart on the way and I need one of the screws for the clamshell and I also want to replace those four small tone arm wires, where do I get these and the screw?
 
I found them on amazon from $9 to $200. I figured you guys had another place to buy. I purchased a set for 13$ but will take two weeks from Japan to get here, good reviews on them. Thanks. I also was curious why these wires are so tiny from the rca connects!
 

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Cartridge lead wires and mounting screws may be obtained from vendors such as turntableneedles.com or lpgear.com. Careful, there is a lot of junk out there. For example, nuts that are so large that the don't accommodate the spacing between the screw and the cartridge body ... sets made out of magnetic materials, etc.

Since the fine wires (33 to 34 awg) you see there run through the tonearm they run through the tonearm pivot. Thicker wires would impede the movement of the tonearm.
 
It’s strange that a fellow would use an expensive cable set when everything goes through these micro wires. All I need is one screw which is bent but the Headshell threads are fine. Another thing I can’t move this plastic, as it’s stuck. Shouldn’t it slide? And this cart without a needle, can it be confirmed good using a multimeter?
 

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Wow ... I thought I replied to this. You mean the plastic 'mount' on top of the headshell? Yes it should slide as ESP noted. Nothing on the cartridge should slide - it doesn't come apart.

Digital multimeter on 'ohms'. Test from R+ to R- and L+ to L- (always without the stylus installed). Should be in the range of 500 -600 kOhm for this cartridge, I'm thinking?
 
It was glued together, it finally broke loose with a non acetone cleaner. I don’t see many two-piece ones in fact I couldn’t find another, there isn’t any benefit.
 
There are a few out there .... probably the most common is the original Technics headshell uses a 'sled' with a single screw on top to adjust alignment. Sony made one for the likes of the PS-X555ES / PS-X700 / PS-X800. Orsonic is another.
 
Alright so I’ve almost ruined a perfectly TT. I cleaned the pots and had an improvement there. Should’ve left it alone. I removed these three screws, pulled this board down, sprayed deoxit into these switches and that has done me in, this was Saturday. There maybe hope now as one of them has started to work. Once you cue it the light comes on and that just now came back too.
 

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I’ve determined that this switch is bad. I destroyed it using deoxit. Where might I find something comparable?
 

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Alright so I’ve almost ruined a perfectly TT. I cleaned the pots and had an improvement there. Should’ve left it alone. I removed these three screws, pulled this board down, sprayed deoxit into these switches and that has done me in, this was Saturday. There maybe hope now as one of them has started to work. Once you cue it the light comes on and that just now came back too.

About 20 years ago I decided to dabble in camera repair. I discovered that I was much better at taking them apart than putting them back together in working order. This is why I decided to get my 52-year old Dual 1019 professionally restored, rather than trying to do it myself.
 
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