Kenwood KX-1030 Belt Replacement
- Thread starter RichK1
- Start date
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
nice thread ..
i would like to add a tip ..
before undoing an adjustment screw mark it and count the turns that you have unscrewed it ..then simply screw it back where it was ..
as long as its not completely removed it should end up back where it was .
i would like to add a tip ..
before undoing an adjustment screw mark it and count the turns that you have unscrewed it ..then simply screw it back where it was ..
as long as its not completely removed it should end up back where it was .
MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys!
The other belts seem fine, only the main belt is toast.
And marking the thrust screw, to relocate it.
Now just to find a belt. no luck with Kenwood.
bob
The other belts seem fine, only the main belt is toast.
And marking the thrust screw, to relocate it.
Now just to find a belt. no luck with Kenwood.
bob
Dandy
Addicted Member
Some epayers sell a pack of anything from 4 to 10 belts in the range you need. I got a pack of 4 for about £6 and one works fine. If your old belt is still intact you can use it to work out the size you need roughly. PM me if you want details of where I got my pack. But these guys do the kit of four for your deck: http://www.vintage-electronics.cc/kenwoodkits.html
Ghonk
GREG
Don't order from their website ,$19 for the belts and $5.50 shipping =$24.50.Same place on ebay for $18 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenwood-KX-1030-KW-4066-KX-1200-Belt-Kits-WARRANTY-/110792228777?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item19cbbb3fa9
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MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
Guys
I lucked out, went to a local supplier.
He had 3 of the 4 belts including the main.
Played several tapes, she works like a champ.
Bob
I lucked out, went to a local supplier.
He had 3 of the 4 belts including the main.
Played several tapes, she works like a champ.
Bob
MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Its a decent deck, i have made a few tapes today.
All turned out great.
Bob
Its a decent deck, i have made a few tapes today.
All turned out great.
Bob
MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
Guys
I have to share this.
Sent Kenwood an email inquiring if a main belt might be available.
I received an email this morning, saying there was 1 left.
An original drive belt !!
So i bought it.
Bob
I have to share this.
Sent Kenwood an email inquiring if a main belt might be available.
I received an email this morning, saying there was 1 left.
An original drive belt !!
So i bought it.
Bob
KX-1030 - Reel Belt
The PRB line recommends an SCY7.0 for the reel belt on the KX-1030. If anybody has seen this belt, you probably noticed it is much thinner than the original.
I've had some wow and flutter issues on a 1030 after changing the belts out. I am wondering if the SCX7.0 might be a better bet (if you can still get it) .045 vs. .031 on the thickness. Both are square cross-section.
Good find on that original belt - shocked it was still avail. Could have sworn I asked Kenwood on this about 8 years ago.
The PRB line recommends an SCY7.0 for the reel belt on the KX-1030. If anybody has seen this belt, you probably noticed it is much thinner than the original.
I've had some wow and flutter issues on a 1030 after changing the belts out. I am wondering if the SCX7.0 might be a better bet (if you can still get it) .045 vs. .031 on the thickness. Both are square cross-section.
Good find on that original belt - shocked it was still avail. Could have sworn I asked Kenwood on this about 8 years ago.
MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
I called and emailed around. Finally i got a response that they had found a belt.
I was pleased to say the least.
Bob
ghettofunk
What wood Ken do?
Thanks so much for this thread, pics and instructions. Just changed out the belt on my KX-1003 - someone before me had used a rubber band for the drive belt which had turned to goo.
The other thing I figured out - unrelated to this thread but still amusing enough to share - the lamps were really dim and pushing play didn't seem to work very well - even when I watched inside. Then the light bulb in my own head went off and I looked at the back - it was still on 220V. Duh. Switched it over and everything is bright and spinning now!
I've got a KX-1030 as well that I'll get to next, and I'm guessing it won't take more than 10 minutes - really easy once you know what to do. Again - the pics and instructions were a great help - thanks!
The other thing I figured out - unrelated to this thread but still amusing enough to share - the lamps were really dim and pushing play didn't seem to work very well - even when I watched inside. Then the light bulb in my own head went off and I looked at the back - it was still on 220V. Duh. Switched it over and everything is bright and spinning now!
I've got a KX-1030 as well that I'll get to next, and I'm guessing it won't take more than 10 minutes - really easy once you know what to do. Again - the pics and instructions were a great help - thanks!
kenwood1986
New Member
Thanks for putting this up , it was a really big help !
Decatur Greg
Super Member
New belt... check
Replaced the belt that had turned to goo on my KX-1030 recently with the help of this thread. Much thanks to all who contributed.
I have noticed that it has trouble with tapes that are the slightest bit "tight".
Example:
I have an old JVC dual deck that I've done nothing to. It will play a tape fine but when I try to play the same tape on the Kenny the tape drags or stops completely.
I didn't replace (or even check) the idler pulley when I did the belt.
Could this be the problem? If so, how do I go about addressing this? I doubt that new idler pulleys are available.
Thanks!!
Replaced the belt that had turned to goo on my KX-1030 recently with the help of this thread. Much thanks to all who contributed.
I have noticed that it has trouble with tapes that are the slightest bit "tight".
Example:
I have an old JVC dual deck that I've done nothing to. It will play a tape fine but when I try to play the same tape on the Kenny the tape drags or stops completely.
I didn't replace (or even check) the idler pulley when I did the belt.
Could this be the problem? If so, how do I go about addressing this? I doubt that new idler pulleys are available.
Thanks!!
Decatur Greg
Super Member
^^^^^^^
bump
bump
Did you replace only the main drive belt?
I don't remember how the auto stop works on this deck, but I think it works with the counter wheel.
If the counter wheel stops, the auto stop engages.
If the belt slips on the counter wheel, the deck can stop randomly.
I don't remember how the auto stop works on this deck, but I think it works with the counter wheel.
If the counter wheel stops, the auto stop engages.
If the belt slips on the counter wheel, the deck can stop randomly.
Decatur Greg
Super Member
Thanks SPL db!
I got both belts but only replaced the drive belt, the one you have to loosen the screw and slip it between the flywheel and holder.
This thread said the counter belt was easier to replace but I'll be darned if I could figure out how to get the old one off or a new one on. Since it didn't seem to be slipping I left it alone. I still have the new replacement.
To be 100% exact, I don't know if it would stop eventually, as soon as it starts to drag I've hit stop to avoid damaging the tape.
Would the counter belt slipping cause the tape to drag or just stop all at once?
I got both belts but only replaced the drive belt, the one you have to loosen the screw and slip it between the flywheel and holder.
This thread said the counter belt was easier to replace but I'll be darned if I could figure out how to get the old one off or a new one on. Since it didn't seem to be slipping I left it alone. I still have the new replacement.
To be 100% exact, I don't know if it would stop eventually, as soon as it starts to drag I've hit stop to avoid damaging the tape.
Would the counter belt slipping cause the tape to drag or just stop all at once?
By "both belts" I assume you mean the Flat Drive Belt, and the Square Take-Up Belt. They are both long. There are also two short Counter Belts, for a total of four in the complete set.
As I recall, the Take-Up Belt is pretty easy to install; just thread it around its pulleys. No dissassembly required.
The Counter Belts drive the tape index, which will stop the tape when it hits zero, but only if the Memory Button is depressed. Otherwise, the Counter Belts will not stop the tape. They are a little harder to get to, but they are not essential to the operation.
Mine takes about a second for the tape mechanism to stop and disengage the head once the tape itself stops. You might want to experiment with that Mongolian Throat Singing cassette you found at Goodwill.
For dragging issues, I would be suspicious of the nylon Thrust Screw, or other sources of friction.
Rich
Auto Stop Circuit
The Counter Belts are essential to the Auto Stop function. A magnet turns on the counter shaft. The rotation is detected by a reed switch that opens and closes as the N and S poles pass the switch. When the tape gets to the end, it stops although the motor keeps turning for about a second. The tape counter and the magnet are driven by the tape reel, not the motor; there is a clutch between the motor and the reel. When the tape stops, the magnet stops even though the motor is still runs. The auto stop circuitry detects that the pulses have stopped; it activates the plunger, which disengages the Play Button (or FF, or ReW) stopping the motor.
If the either Counter Belt slips, the Auto Stop function will activate, stopping the motor.
The Counter Belts are essential to the Auto Stop function. A magnet turns on the counter shaft. The rotation is detected by a reed switch that opens and closes as the N and S poles pass the switch. When the tape gets to the end, it stops although the motor keeps turning for about a second. The tape counter and the magnet are driven by the tape reel, not the motor; there is a clutch between the motor and the reel. When the tape stops, the magnet stops even though the motor is still runs. The auto stop circuitry detects that the pulses have stopped; it activates the plunger, which disengages the Play Button (or FF, or ReW) stopping the motor.
If the either Counter Belt slips, the Auto Stop function will activate, stopping the motor.
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Decatur Greg
Super Member
Thanks so much Rich!
AHHHHHH! I think that could be it. I DID loosen the nylon thrust screw in order to slip the belt on.
I marked the location and returned the screw to the same location. Granted, that old location might not have been optimum for performance.
The process I've seen in threads is to loosen the screw to the point that the flywheel wobbles a bit, then tighten it up a little. Then play tapes while adjusting the screw.
Too tight = tape drags
Too loose = wow & flutter
Is that correct? Any other tips & tricks? Any need to grease where the flywheel contacts the thrust screw?
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