KLH Model 6 questions

Whats the purpose for having double caps?

If you are referring to the double caps that KLH used where it had two caps inside one tube - I dunno. They probably got a deal on them from some source. There is no functional difference to having two separate caps where the two are tied together at one end.
 
I think PE was out of the 4 uF when I did mine, or have added the value since I did mine a few years ago. Unfortunately when they run out of something it may take 3 months for them to get restocked. Have had to wait months a few times for desired items to come back in stock. In my experience their date estimates end up being accurate within a week or two.

Capacitors wired in parallel add in value so you can use a combination of capacitors to reach a desired value. So if you need 8 uF, you can do two 4 uF in parallel, or if not available (or stock you have on hand) a 4.7 and 3.3 uF cap in parallel will also give you 8 uF.

Double caps let them have two capacitors in one package. Some older audio equipment had double caps in them too. I think that is some of the 1960s and earlier stuff.
 
Here's what I ordered before from Parts Express. No affiliation btw. Just a satisfied customer.

QTY. Part No. Description
4 027-414 2uF Dayton Polypropolene at 5% tolerance 250V
2 027-426 8.2uF Dayton Polypropolene at 5% tolerance 250V

The 8.2uF is close enough (within 5% of original value). The voltage doesn't matter. Parts Express has 1% tolerance caps for more money. Personally I don't buy the 1% caps. The 250V doesn't matter. Anything over 100V is a "don't care".
 
Here's what I ordered before from Parts Express. No affiliation btw. Just a satisfied customer.

QTY. Part No. Description
4 027-414 2uF Dayton Polypropolene at 5% tolerance 250V
2 027-426 8.2uF Dayton Polypropolene at 5% tolerance 250V

The 8.2uF is close enough (within 5% of original value). The voltage doesn't matter. Parts Express has 1% tolerance caps for more money. Personally I don't buy the 1% caps. The 250V doesn't matter. Anything over 100V is a "don't care".

Is that list above enough to do both speakers? I am assuming yes.
 
You also mentioned you needed a parts list? I recapped my "late model" pair last year, this what I ordered from Parts express... It was pretty easy to do them and very accessible once you remove the woofer and the fiberglass. QTY of four for each cap is enough to do both speakers.

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I noticed that there are two different part numbers. When I get to the crossover to rebuild it how will I know which part number to use to replace the old ones. Is there a step by step thread on this?
 
I noticed that there are two different part numbers. When I get to the crossover to rebuild it how will I know which part number to use to replace the old ones. Is there a step by step thread on this?
You match the same value cap and replace it with the exact connections as the originals. The two caps combined at on end, follow how the originals are connected as well.
Have both speakers opened up. Leave one original as a reference guide while you replace the caps in the other. Once done, mount the woofer with a couple screws and test. If all is good, proceed with the second speaker following how everything is hooked up with the new caps. Again, test, and if all is good, glue or strap down the 8uf caps, put back in the fiberglass stuffing, lay down the woofer gaskets in the cab woofer holes, resolder the wires, or reconnect then with the wire nuts, remount the woofers and you're done. The entire job should take no more than two hours.
Glenn
 
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I noticed that there are two different part numbers. When I get to the crossover to rebuild it how will I know which part number to use to replace the old ones. Is there a step by step thread on this?

For the parts list I gave - match it up with the diagram I gave in a previous post. You'll do well to familiarize yourself with the diagram and then you can see where in the diagram are the two caps of 2uF value and the one cap of 8uF value. I doubled the quantity in my post to cover for two speakers.
 
For the parts list I gave - match it up with the diagram I gave in a previous post. You'll do well to familiarize yourself with the diagram and then you can see where in the diagram are the two caps of 2uF value and the one cap of 8uF value. I doubled the quantity in my post to cover for two speakers.

I am sure once I get it apart I will figure it out. I greatly appreciate the help
 
You match the same value cap and replace it with the exact connections as the originals. The two caps combined at on end, follow how the originals are connected as well.
Have both speakers opened up. Leave one original as a reference guide while you replace the caps in the other. Once done, mount the woofer with a couple screws and test. If all is good, proceed with the second speaker following how everything is hooked up with the new caps. Again, test, and if all is good, glue or strap down the 8uf caps, put back in the fiberglass stuffing, lay down the woofer gaskets in the cab woofer holes, resolder the wires, or reconnect then with the wire nuts, remount the woofers and you're done. The entire job should take no more than two hours.
Glenn


Thanks I will give it a shot
 
Thanks I will give it a shot
My very first recap was also a set of Sixs. I knew nothing, got lots of the same advice you're getting, and they came out great. Also resealed the woofers surrounds with the sealer ebay seller vintage-ar as recommend.
 
I remove one cap at a time and replace the removed cap with the new one, verifying the correct capacitance value at that time. After all the caps are replaced, I use hot glue to secure the caps so they do not vibrate. When I solder a cap in place, I position the cap so it can be hot glued later.
 
Can I use Deoxit fader lube as a cleaner as well? What I am asking do I need to buy a bottle of the original deoxit (red can) and a can of deoxit (green can)fader lube strictly for the faders? I scored a few Technics 1200s that are very dirty and I need to rework the faders as well. Thanks
 
49948424_866917509662_1712602975031001088_n-1.jpg 50224059_866917549582_2139931154168414208_n-1.jpg I may have a chance to get what look to be an early pair. To fix the speaker, and to do caps if necessary, I have to go in through the front holes, right?

"Pair of vintage 70’s KLH Loudspeakers. Sweet, warm sound from these well built speakers. Cloth grills. They have seen some life, but there is plenty left in them. Replacement tweeter (same model/era) included for one of the tweeters that is out...just never got around to replacing. "


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I'd call them early-er. Still have the flush terminal plate, but have the newer replaceable drivers.
Yes, you'd go in through the front, as opposed to having to dig through the epoxy plug under
the terminal plate. New caps might revive the one "dead" tweeter.
 
View attachment 1396473 View attachment 1396472 I may have a chance to get what look to be an early pair. To fix the speaker, and to do caps if necessary, I have to go in through the front holes, right?

"Pair of vintage 70’s KLH Loudspeakers. Sweet, warm sound from these well built speakers. Cloth grills. They have seen some life, but there is plenty left in them. Replacement tweeter (same model/era) included for one of the tweeters that is out...just never got around to replacing. "


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Those are a project! Just the type I love to sink my teeth into!
If the price is good, grab them, well worth restoring.
Also, unscrew the KLH badge before attempting to remove the grill.
I'm thinking these are glued based on the pic with the fabric all cut up to access the tweeter.
 
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