Kr-9600 ta-200w

Echo-
I pluged my Zune (I-pod similar) into the rear input and increased the volume on it to 1 and I got sound out of both. I would guess my problem is in the preamps, one of them must have a bad connection on the relays or a bad transistor, but at least I know the Power transistors are OK. I looked at the relays briefly and they look fine, but I haven't taken the cases off of them yet.

Are the premap transistors a common part or available for the most part?
 
The preamp is a complex beast with dozens of different transistors (with 'equivalent-or-better' substitutes available for all) but your description leads me to believe your problem is dirty switches or bad caps (and the 9600 has a zillion bloody caps).
 
zebradog said:
So the one from here that is down loadable, is it the same as the one that is printed? The electronic version would work great for me because I have a laptop as well. I plan on buying the downlaodable one here soon, unless that's the one you are referring to as not as good.

http://www.servicemanuals.net/ServiceManual/KENWOOD/kr9600/pos1/results.aspx
Click to expand...

Yes, their printed copies are made from the same source. However, sometimes if they have an extra original copy around or have already scanned it and no longer need it, they will send you a nice original copy if you ask for paper. I have been pleasantly surprised once or twice. Their scanned and printed copies are very high quality, I really like this place. sometimes they will send you an e-mail after you order, with a password to get a discount on your next order.

The brown goo under the caps is glue to keep the caps from vibrating and breaking the leads during shipping.
 
zebradog said:
Echo-
I pluged my Zune (I-pod similar) into the rear input and increased the volume on it to 1 and I got sound out of both. I would guess my problem is in the preamps, one of them must have a bad connection on the relays or a bad transistor, but at least I know the Power transistors are OK. I looked at the relays briefly and they look fine, but I haven't taken the cases off of them yet.

Are the premap transistors a common part or available for the most part?
Click to expand...

To add to what dr*audio said; it really, really sucks trying to work from a PDF. A paper copy is much better.
 
I couldn't agree more, I have to use them all the time and I'd rather have a paper copy. The benefit for downlaoding was instant gratification and I can always print more of them later if I screw it up or lose it.

I started troubleshooting the amp, and I found a bad OP-Amp, it's on the IF/MPX board, ICb6. It's a NJM4558D OP-Amp. I've got signal going in but flat comming out, even with the output disconnected from the pre-amp board. Even the feedback resistance is off, making me think it's got an internal short on it. Luckily on this type of circuit, I've got one good chanel to look at and compare all the value to the dead one.

I downloaded the schamitcs, but there are bubbbles all over the whole thing, covering up what looks like measurements and values. Any idea why?

The biggest pain about replacing the chip is that the board has to come out and you have to untwist all the wires off of the terminals to get it out. :thumbsdn: Oh well, it'sll be worth it/

No one ever replied back about the lamps, any suggestions on replacement parts for them?
 
Do NOT remove the wirewrapped wires! No no No...! You can get to the whole tuner board by flipping the unit over and taking the regulator unit 'loose' and moving it out of the way.

I've rebuilt 4 or 5 9600's, and worked on the FM section of each. I've never had to remove any of the wirewrap...and if you do, you're asking for serious problems.

You must confirm that the voltages supplied to the opamp are OK before you proceed. The opamp may be fine.
 
The voltages I gt were around 15 on one end and 13 on the other end, I don't remeber which one was + and which one was -. Like I said, all the schematics have the voltages scratched out so I just assumed the voltages were OK because one half of the amp works fine. I already unwound one wire.... :gigglemad: Oh well, at least it's only one. When i saw how many there were, all I could think was there has got to be another way.

I can fix the one wire pretty easily, I've got one of those wire wrapping tools,a nd I can solder if nothing else. What are the voltages suppose to be?
 
+13.2 and -13.5. The exact value isn't critical, but they should be a bit closer.
A good replacement for the original NJM opamp is the Burr-Brown OPA2132, or the National LME49860. If you solder in a machined socket, you can change out this part and experiment with different dual DIP opamps.

If you've already unwrapped one wire, wrap it back on tightly with needlenose pliers, and solder it. You won't have enough wire to wirewrap it again (and most wirewrap tools are designed for much smaller wire.

Here's a jpg for you:

(jpg deleted)

Dgwojo should have the lamps you need. The small ones are either 4mm or 5mm 8V 50mA, with no attached leads. You'll need to pull one out to see what's up.
 
WOW! Thanks! I'll check that out, man I'll tell you what, I would have reinvented the wheel numerous time without your help. I was thinking about taking a digital pic of the wire wraps and taking them all off, you REALLY saved me, I hate wraping those wires, they still make a few things like that. I'll solder them back on and I'll check the voltages like you suggested before I cut the ship out. All the places where you have the voltages written in, my schematics have them scratched out; is there a reason for that?

Who or how do I find Dgwojo for the lamps? Can I get the opamps there too?

Do you rally think that different op-amps make a noticeable difference? I guess with audio waves and different band passes of chips it would make a difference. I'll definetly get one of the chips you recomended, I was going to get a NTE778A. It cam up on Google as a similar chip.
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/700to799/pdf/nte778a.pdf

Like I said before, :lol: kept me from reinventing the wheel numerous times; thanks for all your input.
 
Dgwojo is a AK member. Look up his profile and PM him.

The opamps can be purchased from Digikey or Mouser. No NTE, please. There will be several variations...make sure you are buying an 8-pin DIP package.

I mentioned the machined socket because lots of guys like to swap in different opamps and experiment to see what they prefer (each opamp is a minature amplifier, and each has its own sonic characterstics). The KR-9600 takes a standard dual opamp in a DIP package, and there are many possible choices for replacement. The two I mentioned are a couple of the best candidates.

The voltages aren't scratched out on your copy...the original has them colored to draw attention to them, like the above pic. It doesn't photocopy very well in B&W, which is why you buy your manuals from a reseller that understands these things and either gives you a color copy, or a B&W copy with the gradient set so you can still read the numbers. Many posts ago I listed the two best manual sellers I know of. They are worthy of your business.

Right-click the schematic I posted and save it to your computer. I won't leave it up for long.
 
I thought I downloaded it from one of your links, but when I went back and looked it was from another member who replied just below you. I sent an email to the guy in Grants Pass Oregon for a manual and am waiting for his reply. I also called the company I downloaded the file from and asked for my money back. I told him it was useless the way he gave it to me. I'll give him the oppertunity to fix the problem and make a color copy, and I will insist on my money back and go through the guy in Grants Pass you recomended. I was impatient and I saw I could just download it and start fixing it, so I went that route.

I saved it as soon as I saw it, tanks again. I'll check the voltages today and proceed from there. The signal looks like a modulated wave, it's not very uniform, without a Scope I don't think I would have gotten anywhere at all.
 
Well, as you suggested, I carefully desoldered the chip, and installed a socket I had laying around. Just for grind I reinstalled the ship in the socket and both channels work now; how long it'll work is anyone's guess.

However, now when I switch the filter on and off, or defeat the tone settings, it pops REALLY lod through the speakers. Any suggestions? Other than that it sounds OK, just the popping when you mess with the bttons. The loudness one doesn't seem to have an effect, but it's late here and I already woke one kid, I'd rather not try for both right now and REALLY piss off the wife.:nono:
 
This just started after changing out the FM opamp? Sounds like you may have broken a wire connecting the regulator board to something in the preamp.
 
LOL! You're ridiculous man! :lol:

I went out there and sure enough I forgot to plug in the red and blue cables back into the preamp stage at the bottom...:lol: Popping is gone... WOW! You're good at these.

Thanks a lot, I'm going to get in touch with the other guy you recomended and get the bulbs from him. I still haven't got my monye back for the crappy set of schematics either. I don't care if they give me a new set copied right, but I'm not going to pay for a product that isn't all there.

Thanks for eveyone's input.
 
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