Marantz 140 Amp

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Dearslayer, Oct 12, 2018.

  1. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hey all.. been away for awhile pursuing other interest but now the days are getting shorter and the nights longer I figured I’d get back into the Marantz audio that I do enjoy so much. Funny how when you get away from something for a while that it feels like starting from the beginning all over again. Anyway I have a set of Marantz separates …3200 Pre/ 140 Amp/ 112 Tuner…. that I acquired some time ago and I want to give them a fresh start and I want to start with the 140 amp. I just started the other night and replaced the meter lights with LED’s and new velum. I pulled the left side amp to have a look see what I needed in the way of electrolytic caps and I believe I already have what I need for it. I’ve searched some threads looking for opinions of what to best use to replace the large single filter cap and there seems to be a few different suggestions but all seem to be a little complicated for someone with limited electronic experience like myself. What might be the best ( easiest ) cap (s ) to replace this with? I’d be more than happy with any and all suggestions that might help with not just the filter cap, but anything at all.
     

     

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  2. bryans12v

    bryans12v Marantz Junkie Subscriber

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    The 140 has vellum behind the meters?
     
  3. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Yep mine does.
     

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  4. Mico

    Mico Active Member

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    For the dual caps; I do not remember the dimensions and value of 140`s dual cap but you should be able to
    find two small computer grade caps that fit vertically. Sides can be adjusted by water pipes insulation foam. The rest is patience...
    And you are lucky to have just one ;).

    Marantz Dual caps.jpg
     
  5. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Mico.... I'm not sure I understand why I would need the stuff some caps. The 140 has one large filter cap and was hoping to purchase new filter caps to just fit in place. Is this not the case?
     

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  6. Mico

    Mico Active Member

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    Sorry I thought you knew it was a dual core capacitor or in simpler words two caps stuck in one can. Those "duals" are out of production eons ago, one option is to stuck two caps in the same case (as on my pictures) and use the same wiring scheme.
    Or make small custom PCB and install two discrete caps. It is bit tight there in 140 so I would rather go for stuffing the original case. As you can see dual caps have three terminals and if you opt for the second solution you have to properly interconnect two discrete capacitors. Do not be confused with my first post, it was 2330B with two dual capacitors, you have to deal with only one.


    2330B dual caps.jpg


    View attachment 1304857
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018

     

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  7. catrafter

    catrafter Marantz Specialist Subscriber

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    Since there is so much room in the filter capacitor area, I install two in place of one.
    Get new clamps to match the filter capacitors.

    Tom
    140 Cap.JPG
     
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  8. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hi Tom.
    I was thinking the same thing but there's a lot of wires to connect and its a little intimating for me but I'm sure I could do it with some coaching by the fine folks on this forum. Can you recommend which caps would be best either from Mouser, or Parts Connexion would be even better because I have one really close to me.

    GT.
     
  9. catrafter

    catrafter Marantz Specialist Subscriber

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    Check your PM.

    Tom
     
  10. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Seems as though I'm just not meant to really get into this unit to finish it. Every time I try, life issues pulls me away but I started AGAIN last night and I managed to get both the left and right amps recapped. I only did the electrolytics as most of the info I could find didn't suggest to change any transistors. This unit didn't have any issues to start with but if anyone can suggest any particular components to change other than the caps please let me know. I just finished the caps on the Relay board and was about to install a new relay ( I had a new one left from my last Mouser order ) and I thought it was the correct one but the pins on the new relay are much wider than the old relay. The new relay Mouser part number I have is 653-MY2-DC24. Does anyone have the correct relay Mouser PN for the 140 amp?
     

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  11. wlhd1610

    wlhd1610 R.I.P. Penny, my always faithful companion Sponsor Subscriber

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    I always renew the differential input transistors on the amp boards with hFE matched and heatshrink bonded new ones as a reliability improvement.

    Happy Holidays!

    Bob
     

     

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  12. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    HI Bob. Been a long time. Hope all is well with you. Yes I forgot to mention that I did the differential transistors as well. Any ideas about that relay?

    GT.
     
  13. MBuras

    MBuras Restoration is an Addiction Subscriber

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    If you just need the same relay with thinner pins try 653-MY2-02-DC24. A quick check of the data sheet on Mouser shows Adding the “02” to the part number gets you PCB pins which are thinner.
     
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  14. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    That's great MBuras. Thanks so much for that info. Only thing left to replace after the relay is the large main cap. I'm sure once I get there I'll have some questions on how to wire it.

    GT.
     
  15. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Finally at that point and everyone on here has been so much help. I couldn't do this without you.
    Got the relay installed and all the caps replaced. On the home stretch installing the two filter caps. I installed a small piece of birch plywood in the bottom to fasten the clamps and its secured using two screws from the underside using the existing holes from the old clamp. The new clamps are fastened to the plywood using two screws per clamp. Both Negatives on the Caps are pointed in the same direction for clarity as the last photo doesn't show it. I'm basically following some older threads by more knowledgeable members here on AK with this installation and I'm at that point where I would like the blessing of the experts before I secure all the wires permanently. I'm hoping the attached photos are clear enough that it will show all my mistakes if any ( I'm sure there might be ).
    Edit... I still need to install a ground wire ( or two ) to the chassis.
     

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  16. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Bump? Anyone?
     

     

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  17. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I assume most are spending time for the holidays with their families so I took the leap of faith and soldered it all home ( it ain't pretty but it does work ) and held my breath. Checked it on power up with the DBT and everything seemed fine. Went back and touched up the Bias and Idle and hooked it up to the unrecapped 3200 and used the Aux to listen to a few tunes on the IPhone. Sounds great so far. Only thing I haven't done is adjust the VU meters. They both seem to work fine but I'm not sure how to tell if they are calibrated correctly. The manual says to set the output of the speaker terminals to 9V RMS but I'm not sure how to do that. Is there a simple way to do this so even I could understand? Hmmm. One of my DMM's has a "true RMS" button but I've never had to use it.
     

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  18. Oerets

    Oerets AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    If it was me, some good ol fashion "leave it the FK alone" seems to be called for.
     
  19. Dearslayer

    Dearslayer AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Normally I would have said the same but I also just want to learn how to do this stuff.
     

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