Radioshack closed it's doors here in my area months the ago.I woulnt purchase any parts off of amazon unless youre familier with and know the source. Mouser has many 400v 8a bridges in stock. You wont find the exact package unless you buy used off the bay.
If your In a pinch Ratshack carries a kbu/gbu package type. I have used them with success.
I seen that exact same one online last night. But I'm still unsure if it is the root of the issue. As my readings above indicate. AC is being converted. So with just a multimeter can I check osolation? Would it be just ok to replace it since the replacement part is so cheap?I would think 4A is even overkill. Bryan is right, avoid the Amazon part and go with Mouser or Digi Key. The price will be lower and the shipping a bit more but they are reliable.
Look at this from Mouser, Fairchild Semiconductor part 512-GBU4D. All of 94 cents and it has a mounting hole! Use heatshrink on the connections.
Your power source doesn't oscillate. If you mean AC breaking down, yeah that can happen. I would be sure that was the case if your meter readings were up or jumping around wildly. BTW - did you check the "+" in AC voltage mode on your meter like I asked in post #79?
P.S. You could sure use a scope on this thing. Any Texas AKer's nearby that would lend a hand?
I ordered the recommended bridge rectifier from Digikey (GBU402-ND).
Also, I'm going to replace the 10000uf power main cap with an original 4700uf matching Nichicon cap. (493-7328-ND)
It just makes me feel better to know its original spec and new. I know it probably won't matter. But It's for peace of mind.
The replacement Cap is a screw type, so I'm using these (A27872-ND) terminal leads to make it look nice.
You have Mouser in your backyard! Hopefully you didn't have a bad experience with them. I order from them every week or two with no issues.
I like the original value in there as it's easier on the power switch and the rectifier pack. Heck, maybe the 10,000uF caused damage to your existing one. I regularly get flak for having that opinion. Really more of a ribbing and an honest difference of opinion from folks I respect.
It's ten minutes from me. I'm still planning to see if they have a local will-call pickup of some sort. I have seen the building from the road and it is huge. But whether or not they will interact with the public -- I'm not sure.Your right! Mansfield, TX is 2 1/2 hours away from me.
I tested the + side with the diode function and - to ground. All I get is "OL"Your power source doesn't oscillate. If you mean AC breaking down, yeah that can happen. I would be sure that was the case if your meter readings were up or jumping around wildly. BTW - did you check the "+" in AC voltage mode on your meter like I asked in post #79?
P.S. You could sure use a scope on this thing. Any Texas AKer's nearby that would lend a hand?
R802 is actually R018 in the service manual, the big 5 watt 150 ohm resistor. It's often found on the underside attached to a rail near the power board. A Vishay wirewound resistor of the same value will work just fine there should you choose to replace it.