Marantz 2230 restoring it from scratch

I'm looking online and there are a few full wave rectifier's available. What AMP rating should I go with? The schematic for the 2230 doesn't provide any information.
 
I woulnt purchase any parts off of amazon unless youre familier with and know the source. Mouser has many 400v 8a bridges in stock. You wont find the exact package unless you buy used off the bay.

If your In a pinch Ratshack carries a kbu/gbu package type. I have used them with success.
 
I woulnt purchase any parts off of amazon unless youre familier with and know the source. Mouser has many 400v 8a bridges in stock. You wont find the exact package unless you buy used off the bay.

If your In a pinch Ratshack carries a kbu/gbu package type. I have used them with success.
Radioshack closed it's doors here in my area months the ago.

So, 8amp 400v is what I need to look for?

I checked voltage on outer DC neg. And posi. =69.4V same on main power cap.
Inner AC on both pins is 38.5v same as J808.
No erratic changes.
 
Last edited:
I would think 4A is even overkill. Bryan is right, avoid the Amazon part and go with Mouser or Digi Key. The price will be lower and the shipping a bit more but they are reliable.

Look at this from Mouser, Fairchild Semiconductor part 512-GBU4D. All of 94 cents and it has a mounting hole! Use heatshrink on the connections.
inhouse_gbu4d_t.jpg
 
I would think 4A is even overkill. Bryan is right, avoid the Amazon part and go with Mouser or Digi Key. The price will be lower and the shipping a bit more but they are reliable.

Look at this from Mouser, Fairchild Semiconductor part 512-GBU4D. All of 94 cents and it has a mounting hole! Use heatshrink on the connections.
inhouse_gbu4d_t.jpg
I seen that exact same one online last night. But I'm still unsure if it is the root of the issue. As my readings above indicate. AC is being converted. So with just a multimeter can I check osolation? Would it be just ok to replace it since the replacement part is so cheap?
The Main Cap that this is connected to was a 100v 10000uf Cap. Would the increased uf size contribute to the hum osolation in the DC current?
 
Your power source doesn't oscillate. If you mean AC breaking down, yeah that can happen. I would be sure that was the case if your meter readings were up or jumping around wildly. BTW - did you check the "+" in AC voltage mode on your meter like I asked in post #79?

P.S. You could sure use a scope on this thing. Any Texas AKer's nearby that would lend a hand?
 
Your power source doesn't oscillate. If you mean AC breaking down, yeah that can happen. I would be sure that was the case if your meter readings were up or jumping around wildly. BTW - did you check the "+" in AC voltage mode on your meter like I asked in post #79?

P.S. You could sure use a scope on this thing. Any Texas AKer's nearby that would lend a hand?

Ah, I did not switch it to read AC now that you mention it. Must have missed it from your post earlier sorry about that.
I'll check it out tonight. As for Aker's near me, I'm in central Texas 50 miles North of Austin. As any Texan will tell you, distance is kinda misleading here. I've gotta drive an hour in any direction to reach a major city.
 
I ordered the recommended bridge rectifier from Digikey (GBU402-ND).
Also, I'm going to replace the 10000uf power main cap with an original 4700uf matching Nichicon cap. (493-7328-ND)
It just makes me feel better to know its original spec and new. I know it probably won't matter. But It's for peace of mind.
The replacement Cap is a screw type, so I'm using these (A27872-ND) terminal leads to make it look nice.
 
I ordered the recommended bridge rectifier from Digikey (GBU402-ND).
Also, I'm going to replace the 10000uf power main cap with an original 4700uf matching Nichicon cap. (493-7328-ND)
It just makes me feel better to know its original spec and new. I know it probably won't matter. But It's for peace of mind.
The replacement Cap is a screw type, so I'm using these (A27872-ND) terminal leads to make it look nice.

You have Mouser in your backyard! Hopefully you didn't have a bad experience with them. I order from them every week or two with no issues.

I like the original value in there as it's easier on the power switch and the rectifier pack. Heck, maybe the 10,000uF caused damage to your existing one. I regularly get flak for having that opinion. :D:D:D Really more of a ribbing and an honest difference of opinion from folks I respect.
 
You have Mouser in your backyard! Hopefully you didn't have a bad experience with them. I order from them every week or two with no issues.

I like the original value in there as it's easier on the power switch and the rectifier pack. Heck, maybe the 10,000uF caused damage to your existing one. I regularly get flak for having that opinion. :D:D:D Really more of a ribbing and an honest difference of opinion from folks I respect.

No bad experience from Mouser. I've gotten parts quick and packeged well.
Just tryingout Warren Buffett's competition :)
Your right! Mansfield, TX is 2 1/2 hours away from me.
 
Your right! Mansfield, TX is 2 1/2 hours away from me.
It's ten minutes from me. I'm still planning to see if they have a local will-call pickup of some sort. I have seen the building from the road and it is huge. But whether or not they will interact with the public -- I'm not sure.
 
I have relatives in Mansfield and have driven by it too. They should have a will call if they don't!
 
No bad experience from Mouser. I've gotten parts quick and packeged well.
Just tryingout Warren Buffett's competition :)
Your right! Mansfield, TX is 2 1/2 hours away from me.
So I got my parts in...

But besides that, parts are ok from traveling.
I'm gonna go ahead and throw in the new main cap.
IMG_20170406_193206.jpg
IMG_20170406_193745.jpg
 
Your power source doesn't oscillate. If you mean AC breaking down, yeah that can happen. I would be sure that was the case if your meter readings were up or jumping around wildly. BTW - did you check the "+" in AC voltage mode on your meter like I asked in post #79?

P.S. You could sure use a scope on this thing. Any Texas AKer's nearby that would lend a hand?
I tested the + side with the diode function and - to ground. All I get is "OL"
 
Ok, So it's been a bit and I've just had enough time to take another look at this guy.
I dunno if I was blind in one eye or what. But I went ahead and put fresh compound under the P800 transistor and I noticed something very wrong. Can you spot it? First one to find the mistake had to provide a replacement part number because oddly enough it's not listed in the service manual but I've seen it on other's rebuild posts.
IMG_20170429_125636.jpg
 
R802 is actually R018 in the service manual, the big 5 watt 150 ohm resistor. It's often found on the underside attached to a rail near the power board. A Vishay wirewound resistor of the same value will work just fine there should you choose to replace it.
 
R802 is actually R018 in the service manual, the big 5 watt 150 ohm resistor. It's often found on the underside attached to a rail near the power board. A Vishay wirewound resistor of the same value will work just fine there should you choose to replace it.

:thumbsup:
Tom
 
Back
Top Bottom