marantz 2240 receiver faulty power switch? please help!

Embryos

Active Member
hello all!
I have a new problem with my otherwise beautiful 2240. I went to turn it on the other night, pressed the power button, saw all the lights and display turn on for a second and then go dark again. I figured I didn't press the button all the way in, but nope, it was fully pressed. I pressed the power button in and out a few times, each time the the button was fully depressed (on), the lights and display would flash and turn off. Eventually, the unit would stay on, but it is very erratic and touchy now! When it finally turns on, it stays on, but its a struggle to get it to that point. Do you all think that I may just have a dirty power switch that needs dioxit? Or do you think that it is a more serious issue such as a replacement issue?
I hate to say it, but I can swear when the button finally makes contact and turns on, I can hear a faint sound that I can only really describe as a "sizzle". Damn! Im not positive about the existence and or accuracy of this sound.
Being only slightly adept to repairs, I figured I would ask for assistance before I open anything up.
Thank you all!
 
Depending on the unit, the switch can be easy or a bit of a PIA to get to. But they are simple to replace once you have the access. Or any reasonably competent tech can do it for a small sum. In this shot of my 2245, I had to take off the corner brace for the chassis to get access to the snubber ( blue box) and switch. This a replacement switch, you can see the blue end sticking out the front with the knob in place.
IMG_6867.jpg
 
thanks for the pic!
are the switches usually something that needs to be soldered? Also, do you have any resources or suggestions for a quality switch?
 
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Depending on the unit, the switch can be easy or a bit of a PIA to get to. But they are simple to replace once you have the access. Or any reasonably competent tech can do it for a small sum. In this shot of my 2245, I had to take off the corner brace for the chassis to get access to the snubber ( blue box) and switch. This a replacement switch, you can see the blue end sticking out the front with the knob in place.
View attachment 1330677
thanks for the pic!
are the switches usually something that needs to be soldered? Also, do you have any resources or suggestions for a quality switch?
 
looking at the schematic there should be an unused half to the switch . may be able to swap wires over .
 
Just order the new one and be done IMHO!


Do you really want to open it up in a month?
 
Yes they are a soldered device. Typically I clip them out for repair or replacement then either strip back new ends or I splice in new leads. Look at this for the switch - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-switch/P227EE2B20A/EG1018-ND/149360
well, you seem to have some great answers so, why on earth should I stop now? Heheh, So I guess now all I need is a tutorial.. no doubt I will be looking on my own but Im tryin to work smarter you know?
Thank you so much, I really do appreciate all the great info!
 
hello all!
I have a new problem with my otherwise beautiful 2240. I went to turn it on the other night, pressed the power button, saw all the lights and display turn on for a second and then go dark again. I figured I didn't press the button all the way in, but nope, it was fully pressed. I pressed the power button in and out a few times, each time the the button was fully depressed (on), the lights and display would flash and turn off. Eventually, the unit would stay on, but it is very erratic and touchy now! When it finally turns on, it stays on, but its a struggle to get it to that point. Do you all think that I may just have a dirty power switch that needs dioxit? Or do you think that it is a more serious issue such as a replacement issue?
I hate to say it, but I can swear when the button finally makes contact and turns on, I can hear a faint sound that I can only really describe as a "sizzle". Damn! Im not positive about the existence and or accuracy of this sound.
Being only slightly adept to repairs, I figured I would ask for assistance before I open anything up.
Thank you all!

I had a similar problem (yesterday, amazingly), with a 2240 power switch that wouldn't stay on. I found another similar thread which recommended Deoxit. I took a chance and gave mine a little spray and the switch was miraculously restored to full functionality. So it's definitely worth a shot!
 
Sounds like the OP is new to hands on work on these units. Be aware that the wires at the switch are 120 volts - some of them full time while plugged in. In other words, they can kill you. Be certain the unit is unplugged any time you mess around in the area of the power switch!
 
I have found it to be true, once the bottom and front panel are removed the switch replacement is easy. For me the one nut removal on the Mid control is the hard part.
Spraying a chemical into the switch will not repair burnt contacts. May lube the action but will soon burn off leaving a sticky residue even hear it doing so if over having sprayed.
An added benefit being with the front panel removed. A good time to give it a good cleaning with cold water and soap followed by a polishing with car wax.
 
I had a similar problem (yesterday, amazingly), with a 2240 power switch that wouldn't stay on. I found another similar thread which recommended Deoxit. I took a chance and gave mine a little spray and the switch was miraculously restored to full functionality. So it's definitely worth a shot!
 
Its certainly on my list and was actually planning on it this afternoon.. did you open the unit up or hit it from the front? Im happy yours was an easy fix and heres to hoping mine will be as well! Considering the 2240 is relatively rare it’s interesting to hear of your issue in relation to mine.
Thank you!
 
I agree with those above who say replace the switch. Deoxit treatment of a power switch is extremely unlikely to be a solid long term fix. I use Deoxit with great success for the general low voltage switches and pots where removal of oxidation is the goal. But the charring and pitting of contacts in a high voltage application is not likely to be "cured" with oxidation removers.
 
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