Embryos
Active Member
Better than the opposite problem I suppose!I've got one on my 2325 that stays on and won't shut off. Second time it's happened.
Better than the opposite problem I suppose!I've got one on my 2325 that stays on and won't shut off. Second time it's happened.
Definitely would prefer to replace the switch, but my electrical knowledge is lacking, although im assuming the job is relatively simple enough.. ive done plenting of soldering copper pipe so i think I better be able to pull this off.I agree with those above who say replace the switch. Deoxit treatment of a power switch is extremely unlikely to be a solid long term fix. I use Deoxit with great success for the general low voltage switches and pots where removal of oxidation is the goal. But the charring and pitting of contacts in a high voltage application is not likely to be "cured" with oxidation removers.
Im new to electrical soldering but i think i can pull it off.. ive never considered giving the faceplate a good wax, will definitely do that. Thank youI have found it to be true, once the bottom and front panel are removed the switch replacement is easy. For me the one nut removal on the Mid control is the hard part.
Spraying a chemical into the switch will not repair burnt contacts. May lube the action but will soon burn off leaving a sticky residue even hear it doing so if over having sprayed.
An added benefit being with the front panel removed. A good time to give it a good cleaning with cold water and soap followed by a polishing with car wax.
Absolutely! Much thanksSounds like the OP is new to hands on work on these units. Be aware that the wires at the switch are 120 volts - some of them full time while plugged in. In other words, they can kill you. Be certain the unit is unplugged any time you mess around in the area of the power switch!
Im gonna hit with a spot of deoxit and get the switch on order.. wish me luck with the repair process! HehI think I would just go ahead and put in a new switch.
Bob
Thanks so much for all the great info! Well my switch finally went completely belly up, now I just gotta clear some time to get it done! I guess i better order the switch and practice my soldering skills on a parts unit.I rebuild power switches.. but, only when they are relatively clean and not pitted. I burnish the contacts and use the DeOxit non-conductive grease which has DeOxit in it
View attachment 1332437 View attachment 1332438
hello, I know this is late in coming, but I finally pulled my old switch and yes indeed there are two identical prongs next to the ones in use. These are the only other prongs on the switch, they are right next to and identical to the ones in use. Do you think there is any possibility of these connection points being intended for anything else? I would love to give this a shot because I am a bit unsure of exactly how to put a new switch because they are different with many prongs, and the fact that they all have snubbers, and I have no idea where two connect the wires or snubber.looking at the schematic there should be an unused half to the switch . may be able to swap wires over .
Touche!pic of the switch might help
I really appreciate it! . Im going to jump on it now.test the spare connections with your meter . if it appears to work ok swap the wires to them .
Well!test the spare connections with your meter . if it appears to work ok swap the wires to them .
Very much appreciated!Thats a rebuildable switch.. assuming the contacts are not fried. In two of three case, all I had to do was take it apart, clean them and grease them with non-conductive DeOxit grease. You need to use a thin blade screw driver to hold the spring out of the way when putting it back together.
test the spare connections with your meter . if it appears to work ok swap the wires to them .