Now that you've scotchbrited it, maybe try some Eagle One wadding polish? I have used it with success to minimize color differences on anodized aluminum, might help in your case too. Had a black Luxman cassette deck with some weird spotting on the face that wasn't dirt or water spots, wadding polish made it presentable again.
Marantz 2285 "impossible stains on faceplate"
Finnegan
New Member
I would guess that there is no bare aluminum anywhere. All alloys of Al will oxidize. Even brushed variety. Anodizing is essentially just a colored (or clear) oxide coating. The only way to prevent aluminum from oxidizing in undesirable ways is to bead blast/shot peen, anodize, or some sort of coating (think powdercoat, lacquer, or clear coat). 6061 is about the most resistant alloy to oxidation, is used in marine environments. It will even oxidize over a fairly short period of time.
An easy way to check is by doing a continuity check. Anodizing is non-conductive and should show OL between any two random spots. If it isn't anodized you could scratch it with a fingernail. Anodized aluminum can have anywhere from a shiny to a matte appearance depending on the alloy and/or the treatment prior to anodizing.
the skipper
Professional Curmudgeon
Don't laugh, but I've had some success with peanut butter and a soft rag. If they are stains it might help but it it's a physical impression on the metal, probably not so much.
Scott75s1974
Well-Known Member
Ok, unfortunately I have data to confirm this. Working on an old Scott, I cleaned what It thought was a matte finish/anodized faceplate with water. Only to find it was highly oxidized/uv degraded lacquer which began to come off in sheets. ;-( I really thought that warm water soak was the most gentle way to proceed... only a few minutes and boom. It worked fine on every surface except the...front. Argh. Denatured alcohol works fine... I now learn afterward.
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