Marantz WC-22 Construction Plans

[cemerson]

Does anyone have plans for constructing a WC-22 Case? I have a couple of 2230s right now and would like to try to build a case for one or both of them, I would hope I could build one for less than $150 to $200 plus shipping. Is there anyone out there that can help me out? I could work with someone that just had an empty case that wanted to take some measurements for me. If we went that route, I'd have no problem posting the finished plans for anyone else to use.

Thanks, Chris

 

[bryans12v]

This info has been covered here before, try the search bar up top. I'd imagine the cost to build is less than 40 bucks.

I have a few at home I could measure for you when I get home.

 

[thxdave]

Is it hard to get the perforated metal grille material?

 

[cemerson]

Thanks Bryans12v! I found the post with the plans plans, but they don't show 2 things.

1) overall thickness of the material (MDF + Veneer)
2) The dimensions of the openings on the bottom. I'm a slave to exactness.
With the plans from the other post, and any dimensions you provide I'll make a complete set of plans for anyone that should follow this thread.

Thanks again, Chris

 

[Steven Tate]

As luck would have it, I just received an original WC-22 ebay buy in the mail today. Here are a couple of pics of the bottom that should help. Obviously the rubber feet are not original.
The MDF is 3/4" and the front opening is 17" X 5-1/8" inside where the body of the receiver slides. There is a 1/8" inset (top/bottom) and about 3/16" inset (sides) for the faceplate to fit in that makes a faceplate opening of 17-3/8" X 5-3/8" (measure your faceplate to be sure). Also, the hardwood face trim is 3/4" deep.
If you need any other measurements, let me know.
Steve

 

[Steven Tate]

Couple more pics of the hardwood face that might help - showing the bevel and the inset for the faceplate.

 

[cemerson]

As luck would have it, I just received an original WC-22 ebay buy in the mail today. Here are a couple of pics of the bottom that should help. Obviously the rubber feet are not original.
The MDF is 3/4" and the front opening is 17" X 5-1/8" inside where the body of the receiver slides. There is a 1/8" inset (top/bottom) and about 3/16" inset (sides) for the faceplate to fit in that makes a faceplate opening of 17-3/8" X 5-3/8" (measure your faceplate to be sure). Also, the hardwood face trim is 3/4" deep.
If you need any other measurements, let me know.
Steve

That is great. Perfect idea with the yard stick. Thank you so much. Chris

 

[ton4eff]

I had never seen such a big hole on the bottom of WC-22. Obviously there is a different versions out there. @Steven, thanks for the pictures and measurements, may I ask for the diameter of the feet holes and how deep is the extruded cut of them?

 

[Steven Tate]

The seats for the feet are 1-1/4" in diameter with a 1/4" hole drilled in the middle for the screw. The seats are drilled about 5/16" deep. I expect there are different versions. I bought two of these in the 70's - actual Marantz WC-22's - and if my memory serves me correctly, they had the multiple foot seats for the different chassis sizes. I had a 2245 receiver in one, and a 5020 Cassette deck in the other. The cassette deck was much shallower in depth than the receiver, so I used different holes for the feet. Don't hesitate to ask if you need more measurements or photos. They are easy to get at this point. And remember, it takes a longer screw than the original to attach a foot with the wood case.

Edit: I looked at the bottom of my newish WC-22 replica made in Germany that holds my 2270. It has a pattern like the one in your photos. I'm not sure at this point which is the "true" pattern, but I'm sure both will work.
Steve

 

[cemerson]

I had never seen such a big hole on the bottom of WC-22. Obviously there is a different versions out there. @Steven, thanks for the pictures and measurements, may I ask for the diameter of the feet holes and how deep is the extruded cut of them?
View attachment 774270
View attachment 774272

Is there any way I can get you to post another picture of the bottoms as squarely as you can take them. It make it easier for me to take dimensions off them.

Thanks, Chris

 

[cemerson]

no. It is available in lots of different patterns.

Is the standard or factory pattern perforated with small holes or expanded metal?

Thanks, Chris

 

[Steven Tate]

Not having much luck getting a pic that shows dead on for all surfaces. Here are the pertinent measurements:
Side to side - the widest part of the opening has 1" of wood from the side surfaces to the hole
the narrower part of the opening has 2-3/4" of wood from the side surfaces to the hole

The centerline of the feet is 1-3/4" from the side

Front to back: - 4-1/2" from front to front edge of hole (the large part)
8-1/8" from front of hole to back of hole (small part)
2-3/4" from back of hole to back of case
It is 9" from front to the rear of the large hole, and 3-5/8" from there to the rear of the small hole

From the front, the centerlines of the various feet are: 1-1/2", 2-3/8", 10-1/8" and 13-1/8"

The metal is perforated. Holes are about 1/8" in diameter - perhaps slightly less. Here is a photo. Don't hesitate to ask for more measurements.
Steve

 

[ton4eff]

So, a quick basic sketch in mm. Sorry it's difficult for me to think in inches. As I understand in current days particle boards thickness is 18mm standard (closest to 3/4"), I made the drawing to match with this thickness the critical inner size. Next is to cut the hole patterns for top and bottom and last thing will be the hardwood face front part... If I don't mess up everything with this imperial to metric translation.

 

[Steven Tate]

That same ruler has mm measurements on it. I'll remeasure tonight and give you as many mm measurements as I can.
Steve

 

[ton4eff]

Thanks Steven, the most needed I can think of right now is the thickness of the hardwood part and the distance from the front edge to were the big hole on the top starts.

Actually I just saw the thickness of the hardwood :

Also, the hardwood face trim is 3/4" deep.

And as the hardwood face part will be the "hardest" part to do I will need these please:

 

[Steven Tate]

I went home for lunch and got the top and inside measurements. I just did a rough hand sketch. I will get those measurements of the front face this evening.
Steve

 

[ton4eff]

Thanks Steve, I'm determined to do this right and when it's ready I'll upload the drawings as a contribution to AK Database.

 

[Steven Tate]

Thanks Steve, I'm determined to do this right and when it's ready I'll upload the drawings as a contribution to AK Database.

Sounds great. That will be a valuable resource.

 

[ton4eff]

There is a 3d snapshot with all parts assembled, I just have to correct the front face exact measures and cut the ventilation holes... Now it's bedtime here...

 

[Steven Tate]

Thanks Steven, the most needed I can think of right now is the thickness of the hardwood part and the distance from the front edge to were the big hole on the top starts.

Actually I just saw the thickness of the hardwood :

And as the hardwood face part will be the "hardest" part to do I will need these please:
View attachment 775726

Dimension "A" (Outer face) is 6.5mm
Dimension "B" (Offset for faceplate) is 5mm
Dimension "C" (Bevel) is 10mm
The inner lip that faces forward that the faceplate sits against is about 4.5mm
Don't forget the groove around the top opening where the mesh steel sits. It is 2.5 mm from top to groove, the groove is 2.5mm tall and 9mm deep

Your diagram is looking great!

Steve