Marantz WC-22 Construction Plans

[Steven Tate]

Yes. That should be 2mm. The total height from top of the case to bottom of groove was 4.5mm instead of 5. I don't know if you want to consider design changes or not, but that thin 2.5mm of wood above the groove is a weak spot. Many times the veneer or the whole thin section of wood will lift - especially at the very back. An extra half mm might help prevent that and probably would not look much different. Just an idea. Either way, it's looking great.
Steve

 

[ton4eff]

Thanks again Steve, actually, I will give it an extra half mm for a little bit extra strength and make it 2mm thick. Actually it is done. You may be interested on a work in progress for the bottom opening dimensions:
And I've seen cases with wood part on the back, where mesh starts for that strength, but they brake too, if one try to pick the case, using the mesh as a handle...

 

[Steven Tate]

I've had several of these and sooner or later, you lean over the unit to connect or disconnect a cable, and you lean on the mesh bending it down. I've done it way too many times. That's why I prefer the mesh not be attached - just slid into place. When I change a cable, I slide the mesh out first. Otherwise, I am very likely to bend it. The drawing looks spot on. A few rounded corners and you will have it.

 

[Steven Tate]

BTW, @ton4eff, I see you are from Topolovgrad. I've never been to that part of the world, but I have heard Bulgaria is a beautiful place. My daughter travels to that part of the world on business occasionally and just loves it.

 

[ton4eff]

BTW, @ton4eff, I see you are from Topolovgrad. I've never been to that part of the world, but I have heard Bulgaria is a beautiful place. My daughter travels to that part of the world on business occasionally and just loves it.

I love my country, but I've heard better for your part of the world, Steve...

I finished the WC-22 version 1.0. There will be one more may be. Before I publish the full drawings, I'm planing to make just a basic 3d model of my 2230 receiver and check if it fits properly in the case. The body, face panel and the feet screws... Stay tuned.

 

[Steven Tate]

Excellent work! It will be interesting to see if everything fits up.

 

[cemerson]

Excellent work! It will be interesting to see if everything fits up.

It looks great. I should be finished with mine soon and I'll post it when I'm done.

 

[ton4eff]

The body and faceplate fits perfectly well, with a small tolerance. Feet holes doesn't match neither of my receivers. I have 2230 and 2226B. The blue dots are the screw holes on the 3d model of my 2230, inserted in the cabinet. They are the same on 2226B.

 

[ton4eff]

Oops! I forgot to subtract the hardwood thickness when I did the feet holes on the bottom. Replaced the picture for the bottom feet holes in previous post. Now it looks much better:

 

[Steven Tate]

Awesome! Looks like you just about have it. @cemerson, are you doing your plans in metric or inches?

 

[cemerson]

Awesome! Looks like you just about have it. @cemerson, are you doing your plans in metric or inches?

Steve, I plan to do mine in inches only because Marantz was out of Chatsworth, CA. I would assume the originals were done in Imperial measurements. I could actually put both on there just in case the people on the other side of the pond need to refer to them..

 

[cemerson]

Awesome! Looks like you just about have it. @cemerson, are you doing your plans in metric or inches?

Steve,

You had posted a couple pictures with a ruler across the bottom of the case. Could you please repost those? I didn't get a chance to download them and now they are gone. Also if anyone could get some measurements of the three little cleats at each corner, just the length of the cleat and the spacing is all I need. Thanks for all your help to everyone on this endeavor.

Chris

 

[Steven Tate]

Hmmm. They are still showing up on mine, but here they are again.
Steve

 

[Steven Tate]

Steve, I plan to do mine in inches only because Marantz was out of Chatsworth, CA. I would assume the originals were done in Imperial measurements. I could actually put both on there just in case the people on the other side of the pond need to refer to them..

Sounds good. I think that will be helpful to many.

 

[don philipe]

Anybody remember the name of the guy in Somersville Missouri who make Marantz cabs? Would like to pay him a visit as I am not too far from there.

 

[ton4eff]

And there is the first revision of my drawings (attached as pdf). It's in metric, but if I find a way, I'll export it in imperial too. Steve, special big thanks to you. Now you have a very special WC-22 - may be the one with the first digital clone... If you notice something unclear or missed, please comment. I'll correct it immediately. Next thing is 3d model for the metal mesh...

 

[Steven Tate]

Looks great! Just curious about one thing: Is the frame made a little larger than the box to accommodate the veneer thickness when you veneer the particle board or do you plan to veneer to the front of the frame? On my cabinet, the frame is not veneered, it butts up against the particle board + veneer.

 

[ton4eff]

I was thinking about that, I'll have to ask someone in the woodworking shop what would be the most appropriate approach. The veneer thickness is most probably about 1/4mm, so no big deal. I'll correct dimensions if necessary.

 

[ton4eff]

It's pretty easy to convert the unit system in SW, but I don't know if it looks OK in inches?

 

[Steven Tate]

That is helpful, but when actually building, you measure in fractions to the nearest 1/16 of an inch. For instance, it's interesting that the thickness of the face material converted to .71 inches. I would have thought it would be 3/4" or .75". Actually, that could explain the difference in the 18mm measurement you got when I kept getting 19mm. 19mm = .748 inches, or rounding, 3/4".