My $50 DAC

I tried to contact the guy I bought it from on ebay, probable the same guy some of you bought it from, but no reply after contacting twice. User name OutletMP3.
Click to expand...

I also purchased my dac from OutletMP3. It arrived doa.
After several emails and no response, I went through paypal's process and received a prompt reply and instructions on returning the faulty unit. Within 7 days I had a working replacement . I think the email is automated because when I got a response it didn't related to my email. I did get a phone number for the company. Pm me if you need it.
 
Finally hooked my up just a few minutes ago. So far all I can say is it seems to work (i.e., nothing bad has happened). Coax through a Toshiba 3980.

My intent is to use the Toslink input and use it with my Yamaha CDC... but I don't have my Toslink cable yet.

Like I said: So far, no bad.
 
pmsummer said:
Finally hooked my up just a few minutes ago. So far all I can say is it seems to work (i.e., nothing bad has happened). Coax through a Toshiba 3980.
Click to expand...

Could you comment on the two Toshibas sonically as a CDP and as a transport individually ? I've found the 3990 to be a marked improvement over the 3950 ...even in stock form with the following tweaks:
  1. Use rollerballs underneath the unit and a large book on top of the unit.
  2. Terminate the SPDIF co-axial output with a bare RCA plug terminated with 75 ohms when used as CDP
  3. Terminate the composite video output with a 75 ohm terminated bare RCA plug
  4. Unplug the S-video connection to your TV after setup

Without the tweaks above I can see the comment about veiling. Keep in mind that jitter can bring out a harshness that some interpret as detail. I'm finding a new level of refinement now with the unit used as an external DAC on some of my favourite recordings...what more can you ask for.

Thanx in advance...
 
PeAK said:
I've found the 3990 to be a marked improvement over the 3950 ...even in stock form with the following tweaks:
  1. Terminate the SPDIF co-axial output with a bare RCA plug terminated with 75 ohms when used as CDP
  2. Terminate the composite video output with a 75 ohm terminated bare RCA plug
Click to expand...


  1. Where's a good source for these plugs? Does RadioShack have them? I'm in a small town...
 
riverrat said:
Where's a good source for these plugs? Does RadioShack have them? I'm in a small town...
Click to expand...
Pretty much any type of RCA cable end will do.

In the photo below are two examples: The top one has the resistor mounted and uses moulded plastic that press fits onto the metal portion.

The other one (bottom) is a screw on type made up of hard plastic.

rca.jpg
 
OK this is strange,
If I take the circuit board out and run it naked, no problems. Before after about the third or fourth song it would skip in the inclosure. It is starting to warm up a bit, needing the break-in time and all. I don't see anything that would cause this to happen. I am thinking some kinda short. I looked at the solder points on the bottom of board. I do like the sound. And you can hear the 3 db of boost. But waiting to hear it when its had the total burn in. Any ideas as to whats going on with this unit?
 
dracoss said:
OK this is strange,
If I take the circuit board out and run it naked, no problems. Before after about the third or fourth song it would skip in the inclosure. It is starting to warm up a bit, needing the break-in time and all. I don't see anything that would cause this to happen. I am thinking some kinda short. I looked at the solder points on the bottom of board. I do like the sound. And you can hear the 3 db of boost. But waiting to hear it when its had the total burn in. Any ideas as to whats going on with this unit?
Click to expand...

Just thinking out loud.... wondering if the board is screwed down inside the enclosure, or does it slide in?

If there is any pressure on the board causing it to flex when installed, that could expose a problem with a cracked trace on the board, or even a bad solder joint.

Using some cold-spray might also help isolate whether the problem is heat related.
 
Its the kind that slides in. I have some air, I could spray on it. But thats going to be hard if the case is assembled. I might try and make a wood box for it. Might just go ahead and hit all the solder points just for the heck of it. I am down with the flu today. Might have to wait awhile.
 
dracoss said:
OK this is strange,
If I take the circuit board out and run it naked, no problems. Before after about the third or fourth song it would skip in the inclosure.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the land of external DACs ...:tears: These sorts of issues were quite common with the MSB DAC and DI/O DAC designs that were quite popular about 4 years ago. The problem is due to some sensitivity in the SPDIF receiver chip (Cirrus/Crystal) and one way to prevent loss of lock/sync is to use a "telescopic shield". More details on the cable, here.

...merry xmas
 
After "burning it in" for the last few days, I moved my Entech into the main system to take a feed from my Yamaha CDC-505. These shell-shocked ears are pleased. Possibly (Probably? Almost certainly? Or, who am I foolin'?) better detail and stage presence for the Yammie changer with the Entech.

The Toshiba 3980 has gone into the "home theater" set-up, and the 3990 has gone into the office system as the CDP. I couldn't hear any difference between the Toshibas, nor could I discern an improvement by using the 20-bit Entech DAC with the Toshies.
 
Bummer.

After several days of intermittent (sound off) burn-in, and several hours of actual in-system use, I'm sorry to have to report that this thingie works. It DRAMATICALLY improves the sound coming out of my Yamaha CDC. Everything just sounds more life-like. Imaging and detail are GREATLY improved.

Without a doubt, it's the best $45 (inflation adjusted) I've ever spent on audio.

I hate to be an enabler, but this is an audio "fix" I highly recommend... even at twice the price.
 
Without a doubt, it's the best $45 (inflation adjusted) I've ever spent on audio.

I hate to be an enabler, but this is an audio "fix" I highly recommend... even at twice the price.[/QUOTE]
that is what they are costing now since thye wholesalers and jobbers have run out of them i have one at he 45 $ price which i am also using on a yammie changer cdc-735 there is a difference !
 
pmsummer said:
...I couldn't hear any difference between the Toshibas, nor could I discern an improvement by using the 20-bit Entech DAC with the Toshies.
Click to expand...

It might say a lot about DAC/output of the Toshies being comparable to the standalone unit but I can definitely hear a difference between the CDP standalone or as a transport with the Ack! dAck DAC...but this may be due to the NOS nature of the external DAC.

Are you saying that the Yamaha/Entech combination makes for the best sounding source of all your possible combinations? Last, I be shy of using A/B comparisons and would rather trust longer term single play comparisons. A/B comparisons tend to favour the harder sounding and more fatiguing component.

P.S. Try "Pause/Skip back" access mode: With the 3990,
  1. key in the track and push PLAY
  2. let it play for about 5 seconds and then PAUSE
  3. skip backwards to the beginning ( |<< )
 
So I have four CD/SACD players. With which would this DAC help on CDs?

1) Sony DVP-N9100ES (brand new)
2) Sony DVP-S9000ES
3) Sony SCD-CE595 (one year old)
4) Pioneer DV-563A

All have digital outputs.
 
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