Need a tutorial on connecting preamp to receiver.

Sobsey

Member
Hi folks,
Picked up a Nikko Beta II pre-amp for pretty cheap. Until I get a power amp, I want to run the Nikko through my Nakamichi RE-1 receiver, which has pre-out/main-in connections. What is the proper way to connect? Do I run the Nikko into the pre-out or the main in plugs, and what do I do with the unused plugs? Leave them open or...? Currently, they're both plugged with female-stopped RCAs.

Thanks,
Adam
 
Run the Nikko into the Main In. The Pre - out can be open, but I have seen plastic covers that some use.
 
As for the unused plugs, some people use shorting plugs, on unused inputs (not outputs), supposed to keep "bad things" out.
There are also caps that don't short (often called "noise stopper caps"), I use them on all unused plugs. They can be bought cheap on ebay, maybe they keep "bad things" (rfi maybe?) out, I use them to keep dust out and the terminals clean. Any other benefit is just a bonus to me.
 
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As for the unused plugs, some people use shorting plugs, particularly on unused inputs, supposed to keep "bad things" out.
There are also caps that don't short, I use them on all unused plugs. They can be bought cheap on ebay, maybe they keep "bad things" (rfi maybe?) out, I use them to keep dust out and the terminals clean. Any other benefit is just a bonus to me.

This needs more discussion. Shorting plugs can be used on inputs but will cause problems if used on outputs. Covers to keep things clean are fine for in and out connections.
 
This needs more discussion. Shorting plugs can be used on inputs but will cause problems if used on outputs. Covers to keep things clean are fine for in and out connections.

Thanks for the clarification, I edited my post. I did say I use non shorting caps on all my open/unused plugs.
 
Thanks, can you send a link to those caps?

Go to ebay, put "RCA caps" or "RCA noise stoppers" in the search box, click "all categories".
Make sure you select non shorting ones, chose metal ones (I don't think plastic will keep out rfi, etc?), check prices and feedback, I have never ordered parts from china, there are several USA sellers to chose from though the price may be a little higher.
EDIT---make sure you know the quantity involved, I just saw one listing that showed 3 plugs, but the price was for one, and the price was way too high.
 
Thanks for the clarification, I edited my post. I did say I use non shorting caps on all my open/unused plugs.
You did say it correctly but left open the possibility of shorting an output. Just some clarification so we don't have folks getting in trouble. Not that shorting the output will always be a problem but it isn't anything I'm going to do.
 
You did say it correctly but left open the possibility of shorting an output. Just some clarification so we don't have folks getting in trouble. Not that shorting the output will always be a problem but it isn't anything I'm going to do.

No problem, glad you added the information as I would rather everything be factual and true.

More clarification asked for since we're on the subject:
Both metal and non metallic "caps" are available. IF they are used to stop RFI or the like, do the plastic/rubber ones work or only metal ones?


Sobsey, sending you a PM
 
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As long as we are talking about noise stoppers and shorting plugs....
on one of my pieces of gear the spacing between terminals is fairly tight. They are far enough apart on my other pieces that there was no need to "isolate" them.
The noise stoppers (RCA caps, NOT shorting plugs) I used have very little room between them on that one piece so I inserted a business card between them so they didn't touch.
Smart move or not necessary (ok if they touch)?
 
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The noise stoppers I used have very little room between them on that one piece so I inserted a business card between them so they didn't touch.
Smart move or not necessary (ok if they touch)?
If you use a voltmeter on ohms you will probably find out that the outer ring is a common ground for most inputs. If so the separation is not necessary unless you are using shorting plugs which short the center hot pin from the outer ground and then the metal plug would short left and right channels to the same point which someone other than me knows whether this is good or bad.
 
Congrats on the score Adam,that is a very good sounding and well made preamp. In fact,the only solid state preamp I own (and plan on keeping as a backup!) is a silver Beta II.Got mine BNIB from the original purchaser,who had planned a project but never started it.

Not only does this unit have very good specs,it also sounds great too,which is not always the case.I really hope that you are into vinyl,because this machine has one of the best phono sections that I have ever heard,tube or solid state.

The entire design uses discrete transistors,with no IC's used anywhere. The unit is fully cap-coupled using electrolytic capacitors,which may not be at their best anymore due to age,and replacement could be benficial.Same goes for the power supply electrolytics.

If you are interested in restoring your's,let me know.I believe I still have the list of replacement caps,quantities and part #'s for Digikey:)

Owners manual:
file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/hfe_nikko_beta_ii_en.pdf

Service manual:
file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/hfe_nikko_beta_ii_service_en%20(2).pdf

Cheers,

Art
 
H
Congrats on the score Adam,that is a very good sounding and well made preamp. In fact,the only solid state preamp I own (and plan on keeping as a backup!) is a silver Beta II.Got mine BNIB from the original purchaser,who had planned a project but never started it.

Not only does this unit have very good specs,it also sounds great too,which is not always the case.I really hope that you are into vinyl,because this machine has one of the best phono sections that I have ever heard,tube or solid state.

The entire design uses discrete transistors,with no IC's used anywhere. The unit is fully cap-coupled using electrolytic capacitors,which may not be at their best anymore due to age,and replacement could be benficial.Same goes for the power supply electrolytics.

If you are interested in restoring your's,let me know.I believe I still have the list of replacement caps,quantities and part #'s for Digikey:)

Owners manual:
file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/hfe_nikko_beta_ii_en.pdf

Service manual:
file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/hfe_nikko_beta_ii_service_en%20(2).pdf

Cheers,

Art

Hey Art,
Just seeing this response. I do use the phono section and it's excellent; currently spinning King Crimson's RED (I'm not a big prog guy, but this record is hard to dislike no matter your tastes). I'm sure a recap wouldn't hurt the Nikko at all, but it sounds great to me now (after a little DeOx took care of a touch of scratchiness in the controls). Do send that list of replacement parts, though, if you have time; I'd love to have it on hand.

Hoping to find a good power amp to pair it with, and I keep my eyes open around here on CL etc., although they're fairly scarce. My Nak does a good job powering it. Do I want a Sonance 260? One just popped up cheap.
 
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