Need help with self defrosting freezer

Kingbubba was right. The heater tube runs under the cooling element. I attached a piece of copper wire to it because I've been taught that dissimilar metals corrode.

Does this look like it will the trick?

Thanks Again.

Paul

Looks like that will work but there is only one way to find out.
 
I had a Maytag drier that was not heating. I called the Maytag repair center and was informed that it would cost $80 for the first 15 minutes and $60 per every 15 minutes thereafter. The drier only cost me $65 to start with. No wonder the Maytag repairman is so lonely. I fixed it myself with a $25 part.

Yep it was the same type of deal with Whirlpool. Except that they also offered a flat rate of 90.00 no matter how long it took to do the repair. I opted for the flat rate, and the part was like 14 bucks.

Man I don't know what to think anymore about these appliance companies. I always used to think that if you bought a major appliance with a name like Whirlpool or GE, you'd be getting a quality product that would give many years of trouble free service. Of the three new major appliances that I've purchased in the last 10 years, two have needed service calls. The fridge issue was one, and the other was my GE washer needed a transmission after just six years of doing only 3 or 4 loads per week. That one cost me around 170.00 for the service call (GE auth), and the part was covered by the 7 year warranty. The guy tried to get me to pay for the part but I got my owners manual which I had the receipt stapled to and proved him wrong.
Also, a few years back, my parents bought the totl KitchenAid refrigerator and it has needed several service calls. :dunno:

Paul, I apologize for the misinformation on fixing your freezer. When I was looking at the pic I was thinking that it looked like a refrigeration coil. You got the general idea though and others were quick to remedy the situation. Best of all, you did'nt have to pay a service call. Anyhoo, AK'rs helping AK'rs is what it's all about.:yes:

RJ
 
KingB is right. You wrap the al wire on the evaporation (cold) coil. The black wire further down is the defrost coil. I would use a thin strip of real al. You need metal with enough width and thickness to carry heat to the drain hole.
 
Is there a certain product I can purchase to do the job. A photo of the product and or product name would be extremely helpful. By the way, how often does the defrost start up?

Thanks,
Paul
 
Stay with the copper to copper as you have it now. That should do what you want. How deep did you run the wire?
 
If you're getting excessive ice build up on the coils you could also have a bad seal on the fridge or freezer door.
 
If it was me I'd go a bit deeper to where the tube constricts, unless it doesn't constrict. That point will be the first to freeze shut.
 
If you're getting excessive ice build up on the coils you could also have a bad seal on the fridge or freezer door.

I don't believe that's the case. There is good suction when I open either doors. If I hold on to the door handle of the freezer or the fridge and pull as if I'm going to open them I can actually wiggle the fridge. Great suggestion though.

Thanks.
Paul
 
Update

Kingbubba was right. The heater tube runs under the cooling element. I attached a piece of copper wire to it because I've been taught that dissimilar metals corrode.

Does this look like it will do the trick?

Thanks Again.

Paul

Well, It's been since January 19th and so far no water in the fridge. That's a good sign. I have to believe that the trusty wire wrapped around the heating element trick is working beautifully.

Thanks Again Fine Folk.

Paul
 
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