Discussion in 'Fisher' started by gtxtom, Feb 15, 2018.
That would definitely cause the problem. Don't turn it back on until it's fixed. Glad you caught it.
Joe. I wondered about that and asked Dave about originally. He said the same thing as you. I erased the gaffs on my copy, but forgot about it when I sent the copy to Fisherconsoles. I'll make sure Jonboy55 gets an updated copy and installs it. How's this grab you. Best I could do on Adobe Reader (free edition). Had to do 2 screen grabs at higher resolution as one page wouldn't show the connection from the B+ to C21 or C20.
So what is the updated schematic look like for the X-101-B? Remove C20 & C21?
No. Just make sure that the B+ line doesn't connect to C20 or C21 as shown in the schematic (see red lines). It's more of a schematic error than anything else. Mine doesn't have the connection.
Definitely a tell-tale sign. Replace the 100 ohmer. Same thing happened to me - I popped the 100 ohm resistor and got an unrealistic reading. One thing I learned... always by double parts so you have extras if either something goes wrong during installation or they go bad.
Larry is right. Those connections do not actually exist in the amplifier. The schematic just confuses the user and no such connection should exist in the unit. The red lines he drew are the bogus connections. Note that there are no round dot indicators of connections at the indicated points of connection by those "wires" of the schematic. Its another indication that the schematic has a problem there. Normally a true connection between components on a schematic have a dot that indicates a connection. Otherwise it is assumed that there is no connection where lines cross on the schematic.
Oh ok. Understood. Thanks for the heads up, Joe!
Thorne, I'm realizing that a little too late hahah
So when I deoxit these controls, which product am I using on which switch/knob?
DeOxit D5 and follow it up with either Faderlube or SHIELD. If you are short of funds, get the D-5, and go down to Home Depot and get some CRC 226 electronics lubricant.
So I replaced the 100 ohm resistor and checked everything again. Still have ~0.760 on V5. The odd thing to me is that when looking at the output tube sockets. V5 is the only output tube with this white wire (circled in green) connected to pin 5. The white wire goes to a junction where it goes to C18-C and also off to the 12AX7 heater circuit. Should this white wire be off to one end like on pin 5 of V4 so as to not affect one tube so heavily? I ran the amp for ~30 mins and no red plating. Audio sounded great. I'm wondering if it's getting current from the heater circuit and is throwing my reading off?
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