Omron Relays at Digikey

but why would it be different from value I measured on the other transistor?
It shouldn't be..But if its not at the base it won't switch on H728...( cracked solder connection or damaged copper trace...who knows..)
 
H728 needs to be switch on so the coil at the collector connects with ground at the emitter. .7volts is switch on bias voltage for that transistor.
 
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I see 0.7v on base of h728, 0.7v on collector of h728 and 0v on emitter of h728. Manual says I should have 0.7v on emitter too.

I'm confused. So there is always 24 vdc on one side of the coil of the relay. Relay turns on when there is 24v across the coil. I have 0.7v on the other side. So I have 24v across the coil, which should make the relay click. Why is it not turning on?
 
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I see 0.7v on base of h728, 0.7v on collector of h728 and 0v on emitter of h728. Manual says I should have 0.7v on emitter too.

I'm confused. So there is always 24 vdc on one side of the coil of the relay. Relay turns on when there is 24v across the coil. I have 0.7v on the other side. So I have 24v across the coil, which should make the relay click. Why is it not turning on?
I'ts not turning on because H728 is bad.........You may have 24 volt across the coil. But no current flow. !!!
 
I'll bet the relay clicks if you short the emitter to the collect of H728.
 
I removed the relay, and wired in the MY4 series Omron relay coil. Works like a charm - clicks after 1 second. The DC resistance of this MY4 is 640 Ohms, just like the original.
Now I need to figure out how to make it look clean.

IMG_20180218_131933.jpg
 
I'ts not turning on because H728 is bad.........You may have 24 volt across the coil. But no current flow. !!!

I do have current flow - the transistor is fully open, that's why there is only 0.7V junction drop voltage between C and E (E being the ground connection).
 
OK.. I stand corrected.. Now to Mcgyver the MY in there.

Well, you got me to check that little protection circuit, which is never a bad thing. I was thinking about epoxying MY4 upside down on that flat metal cover in front of the power board (that cover covers two filer caps, but they can be accessed from the bottom). Then run 6 wires from relay into the board. I will heatshrink connections to the relay - just not sure if it's ok to leave all other pins exposed in the air.
 
Have you considered a surface flange mount variant ?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Automation-and-Safety/MY4F-DC24?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmW1uKSon960XETWK5ugIPwRY=


1YCZ7_AS01
 
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I have this exact relay in the box. Its coil impedance is half of what I need. The flanges are a great option for sure.
 
For future reference, Marantz 1070 protection relay (LC2-C-M relay - 640 Ohm 24VDC coil) has no exact form-fit-function replacement. Omron MY4-02-DC24 works great in-circuit, just need to wire it into the PCB.

IMG_20180219_190336.jpg
 
Wondered if someone could take a look over my shoulder and tell me if I've got it right here.

I've got a "Fujisoku Links" relay I'm nursing in my NAD 3080 integrated amplifier (original owner).

It is a PCB mount two terminal 24V relay circa 1979.

I measured the lead spacing. An Omron MY2-DC24 recently installed by yours truly in my Pioneeer SX-939 appears good. Except I need the PCB style.

I would prefer Mouser be my supplier. The -02- in the middle of the product code looks to be the PCB-style identifier.
Mouser 653-MY2-02DC24
Digikey Z2633-ND

In the PCB photo it's of course those two rows of four similarly soldered leads in the center.

Thanks for taking a look.

NAD 3080 Relay.jpg
NAD 3080 Relay 2.jpg
NAD 3080 Relay 3.jpg
 
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Anybody can help with substitution for Omron G2V2-1004D? It's a 12V unit. Mounting out of PCB is fine. Thanks.
They don't appear to be a current product, have a look on ebay, there are some listed - probably your best bet. Failing that you'll have to accept wiring a similar relay (like G5V2) to the PCB with short wire links. :)
 
Or if you have room and the right lead/pad pattern, maybe adapt a relay socket which may give you additional choices to work with. However, more contacts to worry about signal wise.
 
I'm in need of the collective wisdom of the AK brethren.

Does anyone know what a good relay replacement would be for a Carver TFM-15 amplifier?

Thanks all!
 
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