Prefered Glue for surrounds

Does anyone know if the Aleenes tacky glue works on poly cones (is that it? the hard plastic like cones). Thanks!!

Niels
 
SWMBO says plastic isn't an issue, and the PE glue is used for both paper and plastic (Cones), and works fine on the metal frames, so I'd say yes...
 
Thanks! I'll give it a shot.
And just cus it's better to ask then to not know, what do the acronyms stand for?

lol, thanks
 
I have refoamed a lot of AR speakers over the years and Elmer/s works fne. Even if it dries stiff the area where you apply the glue isn't impacted or need to be flexible. I use old negatives from film I got developed and they work great, better than the shims I have received with some of the kits. Some speakers have real tight tolerances and the negatives can get in between the voice coils. I have only refoamed AR's so I can't speak on any others.
 
Believe it or not I used Elmer's Glue to bond the separation of the surrounds on my Sansui SP-3500 and it worked like a charm!
 
Hi,

I have a pair of Paradigm 5SE and the rubber suurounds and the poly cones need to be reglued.

Some say to use Elmer's Stix-All ?

I want a bit of time to adjust it perfectly.

Thank You

Thank You
 
thinker10 said:
Hi,

I have a pair of Paradigm 5SE and the rubber suurounds and the poly cones need to be reglued.

Some say to use Elmer's Stix-All ?

I want a bit of time to adjust it perfectly.

Thank You

Thank You

If you read the rest of the thread, Aleen's tacky glue or the PE glue is the way to go. I do NOT recomend Elmers. :no:
 
Refoam - Standard Hi Temp Silicone is a good alternative

I expect to receive some heated replies on this subject, but I have successfully used hi temp silicone to repair existing foam with cracks. My father has a pair of Sansui s-57s that I repaired over 10 years ago with silicone. Those speakers are roughly 25 years old now and still sound great with "siliconed" woofers. The same thing can be said for my own pair Sansui s-57s and my pair of Pioneer cs-720s. So far, silicone has been a cheap and easy alternative to trying to find foam kits for my speakers...Just my two cents. The proof is in the pudding, so to speak.

Thanks
 
alric said:
I expect to receive some heated replies on this subject, but I have successfully used hi temp silicone to repair existing foam with cracks. My father has a pair of Sansui s-57s that I repaired over 10 years ago with silicone. Those speakers are roughly 25 years old now and still sound great with "siliconed" woofers.

You wouldnt happen to know who did these would you?
 

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Hi Everyone,
I got a pair of JBL D131 and their surrounds are cracked and ripped. Can I use glue to seal them off? What kind of glue would be better or do the speakers need to be reconed? Thanks in advance.
 
tanchiro58 said:
Hi Everyone,
I got a pair of JBL D131 and their surrounds are cracked and ripped. Can I use glue to seal them off? What kind of glue would be better or do the speakers need to be reconed? Thanks in advance.
The surrounds will have to be replaced. Don't play them until you do or else you will run the risk of damaging the voice coils. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, Gordon W and a few other AK members will probably be willing to do it for you.
 
Hi Celt,
Thanks for your infos but do you know who is Gordon W and other AK members who are expert in this? Would you please introduce me to them? Thanks for your kindness.
 
I just picked up a set of Mission 763 floorstanders with 8" woofers. The surrounds are rubber, but have started to seperate from the Poly cone. They're still attached in most places around the driver.
My questions are;
What glue (Aileens Tacky?) is best for poly cones with rubber surrounds?
Since the surrounds are attached in a few places around the cone, do I have to worry about centering much - or should I just brush in some glue and press 'em back together?

These are for my own personal use - and I'll probably always keep these - so I really want to do what's best.

Thanks in advance!
 
I use 3M 847 Rubber and Gasket Cement for foam surrounds. White glue takes too long to dry, is too brittle, and doesn't stick very well. The rubber cement tacks quickly enough to work the surround into the right position, is manueverable and adheres well to different substrates...and the frame. The key is to apply to one surface and work the surround into place.

Tacky glue is a PITA to work with. If environmental issues prevent use of solvent based cement...you can use water based contact cement....but it's pretty temperamental and requires practice. It's not as forgiving as solvent based. When it sticks....it sticks... and is almost always impossible to manipulate after it tacks. The water makes paper cones wet.

I can't believe I'm posting my trade secrets from 18 years experience. Generous, huh?
 
edgewound said:
I can't believe I'm posting my trade secrets from 18 years experience. Generous, huh?

I'd say you are being VERY generous Edge... :thmbsp: Have I told you I like your avatar?
 
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