Question for the group. When it comes to mounting a SME 3009 on a Thorens sprungie headaches are soon to follow. Although the SME 3009 Series II is a good match for a 150 or 160 there is almost always an uneven bounce due to extra weight in the tonearm mount corner. Has anyone thought of adding counter weight to the sub chassis in the motor corner? Or, maybe using a 125 spring on the back by the tonearm mount?
Question for mounting SME 3009 on Thorens TD150
- Thread starter HamBone77
- Start date
bang4buck
Super Member
Did you already try swapping the springs around?
The other common recommendation is to use a set of Linn LP12 springs. They're cheap (16 GBP for the full set, in the UK) and a perfect fit.
Full disclosure: I still haven't done this myself, even though I'm sure it would have helped with the weight of the Linn Basik when it lived on my own 150.
The other common recommendation is to use a set of Linn LP12 springs. They're cheap (16 GBP for the full set, in the UK) and a perfect fit.
Full disclosure: I still haven't done this myself, even though I'm sure it would have helped with the weight of the Linn Basik when it lived on my own 150.
I have not tried swapping springs. I'll try that. From the discussions I've seen my thinking is the Linn springs are too stiff for the 150. Take the life out of the table. I am thinking though of maybe putting a Linn spring in the tonearm mount corner or maybe a Thorens TD 125 spring there.
Your "thought of adding counter weight to the sub chassis" is a good idea, and Oracle used it, just to name one. It will achieve balance, but the drawback is that your subchassis will ride lower due to the increased weight (and be stiffer). This could make the platter rub against the top of the plinth, but can probably adjusted. Worth trying.
Also, your local hardware store may have a wide selection of springs — mine does — including the tapering ones used in TTs (they curtail side-to-side instability). I've often found the right spring there, without guesswork; they cost almost nothing, and no waiting for it to arrive in the mail. I just take the dubious spring in with me, find a couple the same size but slightly stiffer, and it usually solves the problem. It doesn't have to have the Linn or Thorens name on it — they're all just springs.
Also, your local hardware store may have a wide selection of springs — mine does — including the tapering ones used in TTs (they curtail side-to-side instability). I've often found the right spring there, without guesswork; they cost almost nothing, and no waiting for it to arrive in the mail. I just take the dubious spring in with me, find a couple the same size but slightly stiffer, and it usually solves the problem. It doesn't have to have the Linn or Thorens name on it — they're all just springs.
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