Question for the Roadies

[crackerkorean]

I am looking to hang a modern drive train on my 80s bianchi (ishiwata 220) frame and was wondering.

Shimano, SRAM, or Campy?

I am torn, I do not have much experience with either SRAM or Campy. I was thinking Shimano (the bike is made in japan), but thought Campy (Bianchi is Italian). But also thought SRAM since its just different.

Was thinking the midline level of components (105-Ultegra).

I was also thinking just to be different and if I can afford it to do non standard brakes, crank etc. Was looking at Stronglight for the crankset (newer ones) and maybe Zero G for the brakes.

Granted all this is based on availability used and prices.

 

[squirrelnest]

You can't go wrong with Shimano, SRAM, or Campy...you need to try them out and see what "fits" you the best.
Shimano 105 and Ultegra are nice components and won't break your budget.
I went from a low end Shimano to Sram Red....I like the double-tap system of Sram...

 

[crackerkorean]

I worked as a wrench in a shop for a while and know my way around it all, just never got to ride it.

I did ride a campy equipped bob jackson in the parking lot and it was fine, but didnt get a great feel for it.

What is the double tap system, that came out after I left the shop.

 

[squirrelnest]

Here is a video that might help explain:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUYoXvLHshQ

Sram...one lever controls up and down shift

Shimano...two levers control up and down shift

 

[Uncle Bambi]

All my vintage Italian frames (4) are equipped with modern 10 speed Campagnolo. It is an easy conversion, and the Centaur level components I believe are the best bang for the buck. I have yet to try SRAM, but prefer the Campagnolo over Shimano, for a whole bunch of reasons.....

Better ergonomics
better aesthetics
better trimming on the FD, especially if you run a triple
multiple gear changes with one push of the button
shifts are smoother and shifters are rebuild-able

 

[crackerkorean]

I will have to see what I can find, I like the idea of a Campy setup.

I did some measuring and think that my frame might be 3cm too long. I am basing this on my mountain bike which has a very aggressive position and I would not want to be stretched out any more. The quill stem now is -30 deg I could go with a straight one to raise up the front end a little.

Is a 50mm stem too short for a road frame?
Right now it has a 1" threaded fork on it and I was thinking about getting the 1 1/8" converter to have the ability to use different stems and bars etc.

 

[MX117.MC7150]

Stick with pre-2008 Campy 10-spd. Centaur or better. Bullet-proof and can be repaired. The McIntosh (though not made in the USA - none of them are) of bicycle components. Even their wheels are truly excellent.

 

[crackerkorean]

For wheels I am planning on building my own.

I will be using a Clark Kent front hub with something like Deep Vs (im a heavier rider)
For the rear I want to lace up a chris king or phil wood as long as it matches the Kent (red)

Thanks on the campy info, just gotta see what i can get etc when time comes.

 

[capt.chaos]

I would go for the campy. I have been riding campy for almost 30 years and it is the best. when it comes to audio I am a Mcintosh man and when it comes to bicycles I am a campy man. I have three road bikes two with 11 speed campy super record and one with 10 speed campy record. The only bike I have that is not campy is my cycle cross bike and it has SRAM Force. The SRAM is ok but I prefer campy. If you are not a competitive rider I would not worry about record or super record but Chorus would be nice. I would not get less than Centaur. If you go with Centaur I would look at 2009 or newer because the shape of the shifters are better IMO.
when ever I see a Colnago, Pinarello, or Bianchi with anything but campy, it just seems like sacrilege.

 

[capt.chaos]

I had a Bianchi back in the early 80's. It was celeste green with campy nuovo record. I wanted a colnago with super record but I could not afford it back then.
The Bianchi was a very nice bike.

 

[crackerkorean]

Did some measuring on my frame and it seems 1.5" too long reach wise from seat tube to the hoods of my brake levers.

People want way too much for older frames but I will need to find something. Would prefer steel for the way it rides.

Is a 50-60mm stem too short for a road bike?

Here is the bike that I am looking at working on.

 

[capt.chaos]

Nice bike!
I prefer between 100 and 120. Less than 80 the handling can be twitchy.

 

[crackerkorean]

I guess I need to see my posture with the current seat post. If might get a straight seat post which would help move me forward. Also maybe getting one that doesn't drop as much would help as well.

I want to make sure that I can get this frame to work for me before I start building on it more.

I rode this around my school campus but nothing more than 10min on the bike. I would like to start doing longer rides so need to make sure itl fit.

 

[capt.chaos]

A proper fit is very important!

 

[MX117.MC7150]

Did some measuring on my frame and it seems 1.5" too long reach wise from seat tube to the hoods of my brake levers.

People want way too much for older frames but I will need to find something. Would prefer steel for the way it rides.

Is a 50-60mm stem too short for a road bike?

Very nice! :thmbsp: Gotta luv lugged steel (and Campy). From what you are saying, the frame may be a bit large for you. As you state........ find a 0-degree stem and level out the bars to start. Agree that anything shorter than ~100mm makes the steering somewhat twitchy.

Get on the Serotta forum and check the Classifieds. You can sell your frame there and probably find one that fits or make a trade. No-cost for doing so.

Here's a pic of my '87 Paramount. Have owned forever and had repainted by the factory (Waterford Precision Cycles these days) back in '98. All Campy, all the time.

 

[crackerkorean]

I am going to find a couple fit calculators etc and see what they say TT should be. I did work in a shop but did most fitting on mountain bikes. The people coming in for road bikes were team guys mostly and they already knew what they wanted. I just had to fix and build stuff for them.

If this frame will fit (and I hope it does, i know the position is slighty different so something to get used too) I already have the wheels and the look of the bike done in my head lol.

Here is an older pic of my mountain bike so you guys can see the way its setup. (racerboy is what we called it LOL).

I have since changed the fork, stem, handlebars and saddle.

 

[capt.chaos]

Very nice! :thmbsp: Gotta luv lugged steel (and Campy). From what you are saying, the frame may be a bit large for you. As you state........ find a 0-degree stem and level out the bars to start. Agree that anything shorter than ~100mm makes the steering somewhat twitchy.

Get on the Serotta forum and check the Classifieds. You can sell your frame there and probably find one that fits or make a trade. No-cost for doing so.

Here's a pic of my '87 Paramount. Have owned forever and had repainted by the factory (Waterford Precision Cycles these days) back in '98. All Campy, all the time.

Man, I love it! What an awesome picture. A beautiful classic Campy bike and a beautiful classic Mac system.

 

[MX117.MC7150]

Thank you. Great vintage gear.

 

[Uncle Bambi]

Stick with pre-2008 Campy 10-spd. Centaur or better. Bullet-proof and can be repaired.

^^ this. Plus, it looks nice.

My stable, all Centaur or above 10 speed, mostly 2006 - 2007 components. All wheels are hand-built 32 spoke 3x using Chorus hubs.... except the De Rosa - it has record hubs:

 

[capt.chaos]

I love those classic Italian beauties. Very Nice!