Recapping and restoring a Harman Kardon 330C

dlucy

dlucy67 (Doug)
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A fellow AK'er asked how to fix static in one channel of a HK330C that persisted even after a good deoxit'ing. I recommended replacing all the electrolytic caps and known-noisy transistors. Here is a quick idea of the caps and transistors involved. This is a quick answer so far, so I may have missed one or two items. Bear with me as this develops.

Edited: Many photos from two HK330C recap/rebuild/restores I did are available here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BnK_k1osh5Qrh0_jvQ-hdS4oiHbICk57

HK330c-AM-FM-board.png
HK330c-eq-board.png
HK330c-main-amp-board.png
HK330c-power-supply-board.png
HK330c-tone-preamp-board.png

Edited: AK won't let me display them in full, readable size for some reason. Here is a link to full-sized versions of the above annotated schematic cropped images: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vCFTw2nn56CcAg-RyoRWv_4WiIIaWGoZ
 
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The only two known-noisy transistors I see in there are the following and should be replaced as listed:


Note: the price on these replacements drops dramatically (at least from Mouser) when you order 10 or more, so consider ordering at least 10 if you'd like the best price.

Note: when replacing transistors like this, you should

  • Carefully note the pinout of the transistors you are replacing as you pull them out of the PCB. Do not rely on the PCB to have markings or for those marking to be accurate as they sometimes are plain wrong. Take good photos before you remove the device so you know the original orientation and CHECK the pinout and orientation of the device you're removing with a transistor tester.
  • Double-check the (as in test it twice or look it up in a datasheet twice) pinout of the replacement device you are putting in. It is very common for replacement devices to have different pinout orders than your originals. That's ok as all you need to do is bend the leads around, but you've got to put the E (emitter) lead of the new device into the E (emitter) hole on the board, the C lead in the C hole, etc. Failing to do so will likely cause a "learning experience" and spending more money on a second or third order shipping charges.

A fellow AK'er @8xlaxx found a good video on replacing the noisy transistors in the 330C
 
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OK now I feel cheated. You just posted a nice 330B thread with a fairly recent cap list and other helpful info. Here on the 330C thread, no list just pointing out what needs to be changed. I had looked at the 'c' thread for that cap list so I could do my second one and it was missing. Oh well, good work on keeping that HK 330 flame Blazing Brightly and I'll dive into my C and figure out the parts. Good threads..
 
OK now I feel cheated. You just posted a nice 330B thread with a fairly recent cap list and other helpful info. Here on the 330C thread, no list just pointing out what needs to be changed. I had looked at the 'c' thread for that cap list so I could do my second one and it was missing. Oh well, good work on keeping that HK 330 flame Blazing Brightly and I'll dive into my C and figure out the parts. Good threads..

I got started answering a PM request for a 330C recap list, then we realized it was a 330B. So, I switched gears and I'm working through that particular 330B variant (I'm in photoshop right now, actually ;)

I can knock out a 330C list and make this a better thread. If you could help keep me on-target since this will be my first 330C go, that would undoubtedly make it a better thread.
 
The piece of work in between the above highlighted images and the BOM recap list is visually checking the caps are actually right. I can crack the cover of the 330C later tonight and do that, no problem. Sometimes, like with the 330B, it reveals oddities like one axial cap instead of a radial cap that isn't apparent from the schematic. Mosttimes doesn't make a difference, but I don't feel right just making up a list from the schematic only.
 
Ok, please review the following and let me know if you see any holes or gross mistakes:

Simple, straightforward recap only

For a simple recap only, here are the boards and parts you'd need (component number, qty, Mouser PN). Some replacements have been changed from electrolytic to metalized polyester film due to availability and better-suitedness:

Power supply

C3,C4 2 647-UKW1H682MRD
C7,C8,C13 3 647-UPW1V102MHD
C12 1 647-UPW1V471MPD
C601 1 647-UPW1V220MDD
C602 1 647-UPW1V470MED1TD

AM-FM board

C210,C225,C260,C302 4 647-UKL1H4R7MDD1AA
C220,C274,C323 3 647-UKL1E221KPD
C221,C228,C275 3 505-MKS2.47/50/10T
C305,C307 2 505-MKS2C032201BKI00
C306 1 505-MKS2.47/50/10T
C313,C314 2 505-MKS2C041001FKI00
C272 1 505-MKS0C031000C00MF

EQ amp

C101,C102,C119,C120 4 647-UKL1V220MEDANA
C109,C110 2 647-UKL1V101MPDANATD
C113,C114 2 505-MKS2C041001FKI00

Main amp

C401,C402 2 647-UKL1V470MPDANA
C405,C406 2 647-UKL1V220MEDANA
C407,C408 2 647-UKL1C102KHD

Tone preamp

C503,C504 2 647-UKL1V100MDDANA
C511,C512 2 505-MKS2C041001FKI00
C513,C514 2 647-UKL1V220MEDANA
C515,C516 2 647-UKL1V470MPDANA
C5,C6 2 647-UPW1V471MPD

Recap and upgrade

If you want to beef it up, eliminate known noisy small signal transistors, and lower your risk of future problems or if you're OCD like me, you would add the following to the "simple recap" list above:
Main amp

R433,R434 2 71-CPF2-F-22
R427-R430 4 71-CPF2-G-0.47
VR401,VR402 2 652-3329S-1-202LF (you'll likely have to bend the legs and short the wiper to one of them)
D407,D408 2 625-UF4003-E3
Q421,Q422 2 512-KSC1845FTA

EQ amp

Q101,Q102 2 512-KSC1845FTA

Power supply

D1 1 583-BR62 (not sure this will fit perfectly, but I'm gonna try it in my unit)
D4,D5,D601,D602 4 625-UF4003-E3
D6 1 512-1N5243BTR
Q1 1 512-BD1396STU (corrected. Thank you, @patfont )
Q601 1 512-KSA1220AYS

What did I miss? Which ones did I cross wrong? I'll make an order with Mouser soon and do the actual recap and upgrade, but I'll need some of you to help me verify this BOM.
 
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dlucy, like your avatar (U2 pilot?).Never heard the HK 330 but like the look of the Classic Receiver. Great information for anyone who needs it for rework.
 
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dlucy, like your avatar (U2 pilot?).Never heard the AK 330 but like the look of the Classic Receiver. Great information for anyone who needs it for rework.

Thanks!

My new avatar features me in a 50's or 60's Russian space program training helmet. Vintage NASA materials are either illegal to own or several magnitudes above my disposable cash budget, so I had to find something similar. eBay has lots of Soviet goods that are similar. My helmet is in great condition and is a ton of fun to wear.
 
It's FUN! The Compaq looks familiar too. Have one still running XP. Need the old programs to burn CDs for the cars. MP3.
 
That list would be better if it had the original cap specs listed. µF and V are all that would be needed. I made a cap list for the 330c I have, but it is a switchable voltage version and seems to be a bit different. Guess I need to post some photos so you can look em over and tell me I have a 330b with a different faceplate or something.

I only counted 42 caps in my unit + 3 tants and don't recall how many caps I put into my first 330C which was not switchable voltage.

Here are the caps I came up with from a quick look.
6800/35 x2
1000/16 x5
470/16 x3
47/10 x7
22/25 x11
220/16 x3
4.7/25 x3
100/10 x2
1/50 x4
10/16 x2

Didn't look underneath. And yes, I know my list needs to be broken out by board and cap number. Together we'll get this done.
 
That list would be better if it had the original cap specs listed.

No problem. I track all that in my spreadsheet, but I only post the cut-and-paste list for Mouser's BOM tool.

Here is the same data with the original uF and V included:

Power supply C3,C4 2 6800 uF 35 V 647-UKW1H682MRD
Power supply C7,C8,C13 3 1000 uF 16 V 647-UPW1V102MHD
Power supply C12 1 470 uF 16 V 647-UPW1V471MPD
Power supply C601 1 22 uF 10 V 647-UPW1V220MDD
Power supply C602 1 47 uF 10 V 647-UPW1V470MED1TD
Power supply D1 1 S4VB20 200 V (4A) 583-BR62
Power supply D4,D5,D601,D602 4 SIB01-02 200 V (1A) 625-UF4003-E3
Power supply D6 1 RD13EB 13 V 512-1N5243BTR
Power supply Q1 1 2SD414 Q or R 512-KSB546YTU
Power supply Q601 1 2SA844 E 512-KSA1220AYS
AM-FM C210,C225,C260,C302 4 4.7 uF 25 V 647-UKL1H4R7MDD1AA
AM-FM C220,C274,C323 3 220 uF 16 V 647-UKL1E221KPD
AM-FM C221,C228,C275 3 0.47 uF 35 V 505-MKS2.47/50/10T
AM-FM C305,C307 2 0.22 uF 25 V 505-MKS2C032201BKI00
AM-FM C306 1 0.47 uF 25 V 505-MKS2.47/50/10T
AM-FM C313,C314 2 1 uF 50 V 505-MKS2C041001FKI00
AM-FM C272 1 0.1 uF 35 V 505-MKS0C031000C00MF
EQ amp C101,C102,C119,C120 4 22 uF 10 V 647-UKL1V220MEDANA
EQ amp C109,C110 2 100 uF 10 V 647-UKL1V101MPDANATD
EQ amp C113,C114 2 1 uF 50 V 505-MKS2C041001FKI00
EQ amp Q101,Q102 2 2SC1344 E 512-KSC1845FTA
Main amp Q421,Q422 2 2SC458 B 512-KSC1845FTA
Main amp C401,C402 2 47 uF 16 V 647-UKL1V470MPDANA
Main amp C405,C406 2 22 uF 10 V 647-UKL1V220MEDANA
Main amp C407,C408 2 1000 uF 10 V 647-UKL1C102KHD
Tone preamp C503,C504 2 10 uF 16 V 647-UKL1V100MDDANA
Tone preamp C511,C512 2 1 uF 25 V 505-MKS2C041001FKI00
Tone preamp C513,C514 2 22 uF 10 V 647-UKL1V220MEDANA
Tone preamp C515,C516 2 47 uF 16 V 647-UKL1V470MPDANA
Tone preamp C5,C6 2 470 uF 16 V 647-UPW1V471MPD
Main amp R433,R434 2 22 (2W) 71-CPF2-F-22
Main amp R427-R430 4 0.47 (2 W) 71-CPF2-G-0.47
Main amp VR401,VR402 2 2 K 652-3329S-1-202LF
Main amp D407,D408 2 SIB01-02 200 V 625-UF4003-E3
 
The 330C is one of my favorite receivers, for both looks and sound. I have the 430 and the 730 too, and the 401 integrated amp. But I always come back the the 330c. Yours looks great.
 
Jim, I have thought of looking for a nice 430 to jump up to the twin power supplies. I really like my 330c, it's understated simplicity and classic looks is really attractive. I've often thought a thin walnut case would add the final aesthetic bit that would make it simply elegant.
 
Yes simple and elegant. I think HK may have actually make a wood case for one of these series receivers - or perhaps it was the series just prior, ie, the 930.

I like the black cases though - fyi, I've found that washing them with Murphy's oil soap, and a gentle brush works really well. Then a thin coat of Armor All.
 
Main amp

VR401,VR402 2 652-3329S-1-202LF (you'll likely have to bend the legs and short the wiper to one of them)

I ended up ordering 652-3352W-1-202LF instead as it was much cheaper. It fit and worked fine after bending the wiper over to connect to one of the legs. You'd have to do this for any three lead trimmer pot as the PCB on the 330C has only two holes for this component.

IMG_4666.JPG

In the photo above: new, untouched trimpot on the right and modified-to-work trimpot on the left.
 
I ended up ordering 652-3352W-1-202LF instead as it was much cheaper. It fit and worked fine after bending the wiper over to connect to one of the legs. You'd have to do this for any three lead trimmer pot as the PCB on the 330C has only two holes for this component.

View attachment 993343

In the photo above: new, untouched trimpot on the right and modified-to-work trimpot on the left.

Just don't forget to solder the bent wiper lead to the outer lead. That photo was taken before I soldered the bent wiper to the outer lead.
 
Jim, I have thought of looking for a nice 430 to jump up to the twin power supplies. I really like my 330c, it's understated simplicity and classic looks is really attractive. I've often thought a thin walnut case would add the final aesthetic bit that would make it simply elegant.

The HK 330B brochure has a pic of the unit in the walnut case. http://wegavision.pytalhost.com/HK/harman330bp/

Yes simple and elegant. I think HK may have actually make a wood case for one of these series receivers - or perhaps it was the series just prior, ie, the 930.

I like the black cases though - fyi, I've found that washing them with Murphy's oil soap, and a gentle brush works really well. Then a thin coat of Armor All.

Always nice to be able to use the car beauty products on the hi-fi, too. Many use car wax on faceplates, too.
 
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