If all resistors marked with the zigzag are fusible then there are like 300 of them.Myself, I just use standard metal film, maybe 1/2W to keep the temp down. Fusible resistors were briefly all the rage but are not used much any more. They are all over the CR-1000 but the next generation (xx20) used very few, IIRC. Modern Yamahas have none that I can think of.
second that!Panasonic also makes excellent electrolytic capacitors.
there is rarely any reason to replace with the same 6.3v.the very low voltage ones like 6.3v 100uF.
I will go for GP Nichicon PW and PM series, they are higher ripple than audio caps if it matters, and rated at 5000hrs
I have a CR1000 in line for overhaul and would like to start gathering parts for it. Wanting to know how many fusible resistors and of what wattage or even part numbers from Mouser to order to replace them all ? I want to replace the bias pots to multi turn . I think there are like six of those. Thanks for any information you may share.Myself, I just use standard metal film, maybe 1/2W to keep the temp down. Fusible resistors were briefly all the rage but are not used much any more. They are all over the CR-1000 but the next generation (xx20) used very few, IIRC. Modern Yamahas have none that I can think of.
I think you were right. I had problem with volume pot. I lost one channel, I turned left and right energetically, I got back the lost channel and also both channels are louder now and with more bass.Your first one has issues.
I just measured most of the white ones and they are scarily within specs, it's like spot on what is written on them I had on multimeter.I would check all the white ones. The fusible resistors will be designated FRxxx instead of just Rxxx.
I just measured most of the white ones and they are scarily within specs, it's like spot on what is written on them I had on multimeter.
Should they be 39k? I mean the one on the left in the pic below. And the one on the right 1.6k? Also are they carbon or metal, and can you tell if they are fusible?
OK, great. So are the fusible always mounted away from the pcb and usually bigger in size with specs written on them? Because those are actually true to original specs, like new really, not even in +-5% but in 1% I would say. Must measure all though.The one on the left looks like 39K 5% (carbon film?) - and looks cracked.
The one on the right looks like 18K 5% (carbon film?) - looks OK.
Neither is fusable.
The one on the left looks like 39K 5% (carbon film?) - and looks cracked.
The one on the right looks like 18K 5% (carbon film?) - looks OK.
Neither is fusable.
There's no crack guysI think that's just some dirt or a cobweb, the "crack" appears to extend across the gap and touch the next component.
View attachment 857450 I have measured some resistors randomly. If I read them right most of them are ok within specs. I found the ones with stripes orange/white/orange/gold are off. Should they be 39k? I mean the one on the left in the pic below. And the one on the right 1.6k? Also are they carbon or metal, and can you tell if they are fusible?
View attachment 857420
Time you read this http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/fuse-resistors-the-wheres-whys-and-hows.430439/
Hopefully to help you become more familiar with fuse resistors - above thread no use for locating Yamaha fuse resistors, but Sansui used them quite a lot so the documentation and discussion in the thread linked is invaluable to us Sansui freaks.
Note well that they are intended to be a safety device. However very few people find and use new fuse resistors, as they seem to be rather unreliable especially with age. Most including me, replace them with same wattage metal film replacements.
The 'same wattage' bit is important - you want them to fail if there is a fault condition, like too much current somewhere due to a failed semiconductor for example. Increasing the wattage will make them last longer under these fault conditions, potentially causing more damage.