Refrigerator repair

This is a Roper 28" wide made in 2001, model # RT18VKXKQ00

It started acting up recently and my first instinct was to get a new unit. That was until I read through dozens of user reviews on (almost) every brand of frig that Lowes carries. Now this old Roper is not looking so bad. It cools both compartments evenly, is not too noisy, and hopefully it can be repaired for much less than the $650 or so a similar new unit would cost.


Symptoms


---The evaporator fan (upper middle in first pic) has trouble starting sometimes. Has happened 4 or 5 times. I hear clicking that sounds like a relay which cycles on/off approximately every 3 seconds with the fan starting and stopping. The fan itself seems to be OK. It is not bound up and when running it seems to be fine.

---The compressor seems to be fine. I ran the frig for a few minutes with the evaporator fan removed and noted no issues


Questions


---At 18 years old, is this frig worth saving? Will the compressor likely keep going for a couple more years? Are other issues imminent?

---What is that thing in pic 2?

---Judging by the amount of frost visible on the coils in pic 3, does the self-defrost system seem to be functioning properly?

---Regarding the main current issue, is there a relay that controls the evaporator fan? Is there some type of capacitor involved in the circuit for the evaporator fan? Are these parts likely to be available?


Thanks in advance :)




DSC03346 rs800.jpg DSC03350 rs800.jpg DSC03353 rs800.jpg DSC03369 rs800.jpg
 
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This is a Roper 28" wide made in 2001, model # RT18VKXKQ00

It started acting up recently and my first instinct was to get a new unit. That was until I read through dozens of user reviews on (almost) every brand of frig that Lowes carries. Now this old Roper is not looking so bad. It cools both compartments evenly, is not too noisy, and hopefully it can be repaired for much less than the $650 or so a similar new unit would cost.


Symptoms


---The evaporator fan (upper middle in first pic) has trouble starting sometimes. Has happened 4 or 5 times. I hear clicking that sounds like a relay which cycles on/off approximately every 3 seconds with the fan starting and stopping. The fan itself seems to be OK. It is not bound up and when running it seems to be fine.

---The compressor seems to be fine. I ran the frig for a few minutes with the evaporator fan removed and noted no issues


Questions


---At 18 years old, is this frig worth saving? Will the compressor likely keep going for a couple more years? Are other issues imminent?

---What is that thing in pic 2?

---Judging by the amount of frost visible on the coils in pic 3, does the self-defrost system seem to be functioning properly?

---Regarding the main current issue, is there a relay that controls the evaporator fan? Is there some type of capacitor involved in the circuit for the evaporator fan? Are these parts likely to be available?


Thanks in advance :)

Pic #2 is a sensor that detects when the coil is cooling down and triggers the fan to start running. That one looks a tad strange as the blue material should be setting level in the aluminum cup. I had one of those go bad in my Amana refrigerator and caused the cooling coil to turn into a solid block of ice and the fridge side warmed to 62°.

Your issue may be more than that but it's a start. Check to see if the fan works independently from the refrigerator without noise. I believe it's a simple AC induction motor.

Edit: reread your post and see you mentioned motor didn't make noise while operating and spun freely. (details, gotta pay attention to the details)
I'd start by checking that sensor first as most times in small refrigerators that's the problem and is an inexpensive fix plus readily available. Press the blue epoxy stuff back down into the cup and see if that temporarily settles your issue. If it does then secure for the time being and order another one. Quite often one unit is used by multiple manufacturers.
 
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@a_retent I have already re-assembled the freezer compartment. I took it apart for inspection and pics. But there is food in the lower compartment so I needed to get it running.

The evaporator fan seems to be perfectly fine when it is running, as it is at this moment. No unusual noises. If I need to take it back apart for testing or further inspection I will. But I am pretty confident that the fan itself is OK. When the fan does not run there is always that clicking that sounds to me like a relay (which is not to be found in the freezer compartment, I assume it must be in the back of the unit somewhere)
 
@ETLS

I was able to pop the defrost limiter thermostat (blue thing in pic 2) back together when I reassembled the freezer compartment (after I posted here), so that the blue part is seated down inside the metal. Do you think that part is what is causing the fan to cycle?

thanks for the link
 
@a_retent I have already re-assembled the freezer compartment. I took it apart for inspection and pics. But there is food in the lower compartment so I needed to get it running.

The evaporator fan seems to be perfectly fine when it is running, as it is at this moment. No unusual noises. If I need to take it back apart for testing or further inspection I will. But I am pretty confident that the fan itself is OK. When the fan does not run there is always that clicking that sounds to me like a relay (which is not to be found in the freezer compartment, I assume it must be in the back of the unit somewhere)

Take a look at the post from @ETLS , if that sensor is not reading enough cool from the coil it will cause the fan to flick on and off. My only other suggestion is to get a schem for that particular unit and see if there is a relay that could be at issue here.
 
The fan only works when the unit is in cooling mode. There is a video in the link that shows how to replace the switch. Yes it's worth keeping, since the compressor is still running, and you have frost on the coils.

Make sure to keep the condenser coil clean, and the condenser fan. It should last a long time, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the compressor relay on hand, if it ever goes out, you will have the replacement on hand and won't lose your cold food.
 
The switch is a defrost limiter switch. Since it has gone wonky, the defrost cycle is going wonky too. It is not reading correctly so it is triggering off-cycling on defrost. Your fan will not run during defrost cycle.
 
The fan only works when the unit is in cooling mode. There is a video in the link that shows how to replace the switch. Yes it's worth keeping, since the compressor is still running, and you have frost on the coils.

Make sure to keep the condenser coil clean, and the condenser fan. It should last a long time, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the compressor relay on hand, if it ever goes out, you will have the replacement on hand and won't lose your cold food.

Is this the compressor relay?
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-relay-starting-ptc-wp2262181-ap6006894.html

There is a capacitor shown at the bottom of that linked page saying that these parts are often purchased together. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-capacitor-wpw10662129-ap6023677.html

Should I get the relay, the capacitor, and the limiter thermostat you linked earlier, and just install all of them now as preemptive maintenance? While I have the unit at the top of my to-do list and my frozen food is in someone else's freezer, and assuming the new parts will out-last the compressor itself.

I was not able to find that defrost limiter thermostat under the model number for my unit. Is that like a universal-fit component?
 
It should be. I can ask my parts house supplier Monday when he opens. If you don't have it shown in your manuals or schematic, I can look it up by model and serial numbers. There could be different parts for same model # so both numbers will be important for sourcing the correct part.
 
Should I get the relay, the capacitor, and the limiter thermostat you linked earlier, and just install all of them now?

The limiter switch is a replace now item. The other two items could also be replaced, although they are not faulty yet. I'd leave them in circuit for now since they do work, replace them if you feel better doing so.

Make sure the defrost drain tube gets cleaned since you'll have the cover plates off.
 
Roper
Model# RT18VKXKQ00
Serial# VSL5275477
Mfg. Date 12-01

I have no manuals or schematics. Only the diagrams on the website you linked and also PartSelect.com. Neither is showing the defrost limiter thermostat, and neither recognized that as a search term.

I am inclined to just go ahead and do that thermostat, the relay, and any major capacitors all at once, along with a good cleaning of the compressor and its coils as you suggested (and the defrost drain tube). Better to make something decent last as long as possible, than to toss it in the trash and buy current-day junk, lol.
 
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Had the same thing happen on my trusty old (drumroll please) Montgomery Ward side by side. Worth mentioning, some appliance repair shops will only replace defective parts with OEM, which can be hard to find as these old clunkers age. I have a repairman in the neighborhood who's not adverse to making substitutions as long as they do more or less the same thing. The one he used is electronically the same, but mounted different. Nothing a couple zip ties couldn't handle.

Defrost cycle was fixed a couple years back, and working fine since. I also replaced the door seals about the same time, so I'm good till ... {GRIND CRUNCH WEEEEEEEEZE!) ... till ... [GASP! poof] ... Hmmmm, what was that guy's number again?
 
IMG_20190128_131835.jpg

Here's a part number for you to look up. It is a defrost limiter switch, whose purpose is to stop the defrost cycle. If it doesn't read correctly, it could keep the defrost heater element on, cooking all those plastic components in the freezer compartment.

Now, if the compressor is running, but the evaporator fan isn't, then the bearings on the fan motor are not 100%. You could use some 3n1 oil on the shaft to buy some time, or just replace the motor.
 
@ETLS You definitely called it. I popped the old defrost limiter thermostat back together as a temporary fix/test, and the frig has been running fine for the past few days.

I had no luck finding the exact replacement part using the Roper model number. So I went back inside and got the actual part number off of the thermostat, and was able to find it at both PartSelect.com and RepairClinic.com (but not at AppliancePartsPros). I placed the order at PartsSelect.

I have changed my mind about replacing any other parts at this time.

Thanks to all who posted :thumbsup:

I will update the thread in a few days when the repair is done...
 
At 18 years old, is this frig worth saving? Will the compressor likely keep going for a couple more years? Are other issues imminent?

18 years may sound like a long time in refrigerator years. It really isn't. A little maintenance goes a long way in keeping it running. It's not the compressor you should be worried about. That is a hermetically sealed system, neither requiring oil change or refrigerant charge.

Since it is 18 years old, repair parts will start disappearing. There are only so many made, and phased out as models age out of service. The most common repair parts would be the current relay that plugs onto the compressor, followed by the defrost timer and heating element. The evaporator fan motor in your unit, is a shaded pole motor, low torque. It will most likely run until the day the compressor gives up the ghost. That could easily be another 20 years down the road.

The things I'd be doing would be making sure to keep the gasket surfaces clean, especially at the bottom of the doors. That's where most gasket failures occur, from sticky Spills that "glue" the gasket to the mating surface. Needless to say, torn gasket= air leak= more run time on the compressor.

The condenser coil is something else that is too often forgotten. There will always be a thick blanket of household "wool" packed in the coil, (without periodic cleaning) and the condenser fan blade will look like it's seen duty as a Louisiana swamp boat propeller. A skinny coil brush will work wonders on keeping the coil clean and efficiently cooling the system. If the condenser fan motor quits, you can still get by with a small fan blowing on the coil, until you can get a replacement motor.

It's a roll of the dice as to longevity of a refrigerator, and one could stock a few parts, or hope the local supply house has them in stock. James didn't have the exact one in stock for your model, and would have to be ordered, plus freight added (as an example). That same scenario might play out for a vast number of folks who do service work, or repairs on their own equipment.

Years ago I built a two toggle switch box as a compressor tester. It does the exact same thing as the current relay. The on/off toggle clips onto the run pin on the compressor, the Momentary toggle switch pins the start winding. Common is pinned to neutral. Pretty handy device for checking a lot of commercial equipment including Coke machines, yard sale refrigerators/freezers and ice cream merchandiser cases. Well just about anything with a 120 volt compressor.
 
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Thanks for all the good tips and for sharing your knowledge ETLS. Do you do appliance repair professionally?

I have cleaned condenser coils in a couple refrigerators. I maintain a 3-unit rental as well as my Mother's house. So four refrigerators, two of which I have done some maintenance work on, and this is my first repair. But with money getting ever tighter, I foresee repair and maintenance on lots of appliances in my future. Along with the part I just order for this frig, I also ordered several parts for my Mom's dryer which just quit a couple days ago.

I do have a special brush which may be the one you referred to for cleaning coils, long, thin and bendy. I don't recall whether I cleaned compressor fan blades previously, but will do so going forward. And will check on those other parts you mentioned.

At first I was bewildered by the parts web sites. But after digging through them a bit they seem to be very helpful. Using actual part numbers helped. I came across some decent repair videos and helpful troubleshooting info.
 
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Yes, I do. It was one of the courses offered in my degree plan,(HVAC) so I opted to take it. The instructor I had was an absolute genius and one heck of a human to boot, so it was a very good learning experience. I also did a short advanced apprenticeship with him, and his father, who ran an appliance repair shop. It sure came in handy last spring when my 1995 G.E. washing machine stopped agitating. Turned out to be a $6.00 part, agitator coupler, and while I had it opened I replaced the 4 rubber "shock absorber" bands at the top of the tub. Two were in dire need of replacement, one had already split. The matching dryer I have, was rebuilt in December of 2005, when I was down in NOLA after Katrina. Both units saw a lot of action the months I was there helping rebuild. For the year I was there, i don't think the dryer sat idle very often.
 
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