Renovation of my KLH 17's is complete (long)

I'm a newbie at working on speakers, and I have a question or two about the process.

Is the recapping just to get the 3-way speaker switch to work correctly, or is there some other benefit? My switch works just fine - so do I still need to recap? What is the function of the caps?

On the coating of the cloth speaker surrounds - exactly what is the surround? Is it the brown area marked with '17' in the picture? And I'm assuming that you only coated the front side of the speaker? Does the doping of the surround change the sound from the speaker?

And when sealing the speaker cabinet, should the caulking be applied to the inside (only) of the case? And do all the joints need to be sealed?

Ron
 
Ron Nielson said:
Is the recapping just to get the 3-way speaker switch to work correctly, or is there some other benefit? My switch works just fine - so do I still need to recap? What is the function of the caps?
Click to expand...

Ron the caps are part of the circuit that send the low notes to the big speaker and the high notes to the little speaker. The other components are resistors and inductors. The speaker designers selected values to best fit the combination of drivers and the cabinet.

The capacitors are the point of failure in the circuit because they significantly change value over time. If you have speakers that are 25 or more years old, you can be certain that its time to replace them. You will find that the speakers will "tighten up" considerably, and will say to yourself, "wow, I didn't know that song had cymbals"

On the coating of the cloth speaker surrounds - exactly what is the surround? Is it the brown area marked with '17' in the picture? And I'm assuming that you only coated the front side of the speaker?
Click to expand...

The part that needs recoating is between the part where the "17" is and the metal frame that attaches to the cabinet. Its the "suspension" of the cone that flexes and allows the cone to move in and out. Some are rubber, some are foam, the KLH 17 is cloth and after time leaks air. So you need to seal it.


Does the doping of the surround change the sound from the speaker?

And when sealing the speaker cabinet, should the caulking be applied to the inside (only) of the case? And do all the joints need to be sealed?
Click to expand...

Yes, the sound will be changed - to the sound that the designer intended.

Apply the caulking so the case is sealed. No need to apply to the outside.

Good luck with your renovation!
 
Specialidiot,

Nice job you did on those speakers! And thanks for posting the detailed progress from start to finish. It's proof that worthwhile projects do not have to be long and drawn out, nor be expensive. The older KLH speakers are real quality units, and I'm sure you'll enjoy those for many years to come.
 
Ohighway said:
The older KLH speakers are real quality units, and I'm sure you'll enjoy those for many years to come.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment. They were awesome with a Marantz 1060. However I lent them to a friend about a year ago and I don't think I'll be getting them back any time soon. Which is fine, as long as he's enjoying them.
 
"Make sure you put a 10MF cap in series with the positive lead of the tweeter to block the lower frequencies. Thankfully both of the tweeters worked great."

Is the addition of this cap dependent on the amp used, or should this be considered a 'universal' fix/improvement?

I"m looking at Parts Express and have found these - are they the correct caps?

Dayton DMPC-10 10uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor

And do the leads of the caps need to be heat shrinked or are they OK left bare?

Ron
 
Ron Nielson said:
"Make sure you put a 10MF cap in series with the positive lead of the tweeter to block the lower frequencies. Thankfully both of the tweeters worked great."

Is the addition of this cap dependent on the amp used, or should this be considered a 'universal' fix/improvement?
Click to expand...

These caps are solely for testing the tweeters while outside of the cabinet and crossover circuit to prevent low frequencies from reaching the tweeter. It does not go into the circuit when you put the tweeters back in.

Good luck with your project!!!

Rock6x, I didn't change the circuit at all, I simply replaced the aging capacitors.
 
A very nice write-up. I followed the protocol and did my 17. The sound became much better.

I didn't remove the tweeters. I just removed the woofer, didn't disconnect it, just put it aside on the top of the box.

I also removed the caulk between the woofer and the box and reseal them with new 3M strip caulk.

Very nice. Thanks for the post.
 
I gonna follow this with my seventeens soon!!!

btw, is the veneer just oiled or is it painted originally?
 
Very nice write-up! I had a pair of these I bought around 1969 or so. I got stupid and sold them to someone else. I sure wish I still had them. They are really nice to the ears and the eyes. You have done a great job with the restoration. Now, if you'll just ship them to me, your job will be complete!!:D
 
replacement tweeter

Sick thread- still going strong. I just picked up a pair of KLH Seventeens from my neighbor for $10. I tried them out with my T-Amp, and they're still very lively, the fabric surrounds are still intact and looking good. They work with the exception of one of the tweeter cones. I pulled it out and tested it and it seems like its gone, not a bad XO like I had hoped.

What would you all suggest as a satisfactory replacement for the tweeter- and if I do, I should probably replace the tweeters as a pair right (even though one original one still works)?

I will probably do the full restoration and revoicing/recapping with the XOs down the road- but for now- I just want some decent sound out of them for my living room during small parties. So a replacement tweeter is all I need.

What are your suggestions? Not required, but items from partsexpress are a plus!

Thanks!
 
Nice job on the refinish and the step by step pics are GREAT. They look really nice and should sound that way too.
 
dex110 said:
great, thanks- ill keep an eye out for the measurements. And I don't mean to be a noob, but what do you mean by wild side? Like excessive/expensive?
Click to expand...
They're horns, constant directivity waveguides, actually, with compression drivers, and represent a paradigm shift from conventional restoration doctrine for vintage speakers. To purists, it's heresy what I do. Here's AR4ax, I believe they used to be, for example:

attachment.php

The proof, however, is in the listening.... :thmbsp:
 
Zilch said:
They're horns, constant directivity waveguides, actually, with compression drivers, and represent a paradigm shift from conventional restoration doctrine for vintage speakers. To purists, it's heresy what I do. Here's AR4ax, I believe they used to be, for example:

attachment.php

The proof, however, is in the listening.... :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

Right- I was a little thrown when I saw you recommend horns for a vintage restore- but, I'm in it for the sound, and as long as the grill is on, you can't tell visually- thanks for the input.
 
Glad to have chanced upon you piece re: KLH Model 17. First good speaker I owned. Recently rescued a pair from the trash . Your restoration piece is so well presented I think it can be used as a map to get this electronic's numbskull through the task. Thanks:
 
Yeggo said:
Your restoration piece is so well presented I think it can be used as a map to get this electronic's numbskull through the task. Thanks:
Click to expand...


Nice job pulling them off the pile. Best advice I can give is to wear pants when you get to the soldering part.
 
Nice presentation. I found a pair of 5's today in a thrift shop for 10.00 They now look new. I wish someone could do that job for me. I don't even own a soldering gun.:sigh:
 
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