Repair power - Silvertone cabinet

On the back of the unit, are there any notes about wattage or power consumption?

A search for 81F249 brings up a list of 1W resistors. As for bypassing the breaker, it's been snipped out of the unit entirely. I assume I'm going to have to learn how to solder pretty soon...

breaker part.jpg
 
I think you've got a few options here:
1) Figure out the specs of the breaker and find a replacement (not recommended)
2) Figure out the specs of the breaker and replace it with an appropriately sized fuse.
3) Build a dim bulb tester and try the unit with a jumper across the breaker (temporary only - still need to pursue item 1 or 2 if this solves the issue)
4) Solder a piece of wire across the breaker connections, plug it in, and hope she don't smoke 'erself.

In order to figure out the specs of the breaker, you can:
1) Find a schematic
2) Find that part # somewhere in an old Silvertone parts catalog or on the interwebs, or
3) See if there are any notes on the back panel of the console that talk about power consumption. It should say something like "117v, 60hz 75w".

Mike
 
.45 amps, basically a half amp. Something just tells me that isn't sum total for the whole thing, it may be what that particular chassis uses but it may not include the turntable, and any other stuff in there. I'd expect that figure to be on the back panel somewhere, readable without taking the cover off.

Lacking better info, try a 2 amp fuse and see what that does for you.

Thats definitely not a 1 watt resistor. The part number provided is probably a Sears internal one, not something you're likely to find now.
 
I agree that 79F010-2 is a Sears number, but I googled 81F249 and got the 1W resistor page linked above. Seems like a huge coincidence if it's not the right thing.

Back to the newbie questions - there are 2 types of fuses that I can see for sale, blade (for cars only?) and glass tube. Which is correct and how exactly would it be connected?
 
Thanks - when you say the 2 wires, do you mean the double blue wires (D) and the single wire (C)? If so, how do I determine which tab each goes to?


breaker closeup labelled.jpg
 
yep, C and D.

C would go to the center terminal, D would go to the side terminal on the fuse holder. Its not overly critical, but I've always wired them that way.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the help - I'll hunt down the parts and a soldering iron, and hopefully follow up with a triumphant post to wrap this up.
 
You should also be able to get various fuse holder from auto parts stores which may end up being less expensive than ordering just one part from Mouser.
 
Running a larger fuse will allow more current to flow before breaking the contact. This can cause more damage or even start a fire in the case of a short inside the unit.
Unless you know the circuit well enough to say the factory specified fuse is too low then I'd 100% stick to what is called for.

Do you have a place like Frys electronics where you live? Most any electronics supplier type place should have lower amp fuses in whatever style your new holder calls for. If not local, I've purchased fuses on eBay many times and you usually only pay a few dollars for 5 shipped.
 
Home Depot and Menards tend to have selections of fuses too. May or may not have fuse holders and a soldering iron + solder.

I agree with the 2a starting point.
 
Make sure its not an automotive fuse. Those are rated for 32 volts typically, not 125 or 250 volts AC like a power line fuse wants. Same reason I wouldn't use a fuse holder from the parts store, it may not be rated for the voltage. For a couple bucks I'd rather not have the risk of fire.

You don't have to use a panel mount holder, thats just my preference. I don't like having to open things up to change fuses if I can help it. The holders are also a little safer IMO. The contacts are enclosed so there is not much risk of getting zapped if one forgets to unplug the unit.

Smaller hardware stores, the ones with the aisle of drawers full of bits and bobs may have what you need too. Radio Shack would have had it, but they're all but gone now.
 
Success! I wired up the 2A fuse holder and it worked perfectly. I just bent the wires into the holes to see if it would work, now I'm not sure I need to solder at all.

Thanks again to everyone here for your help.
 
I would definitely solder that. Any loose connection will make a lot of heat, and you don't need that.
 
Seconded - don't rely on a crunched wire. Soldering isn't hard and about $15 in tools and equipment will get you there. Watch some YouTube videos.

Otherwise, nice job!
Mike
 
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