Replacing the belt: TEAC X-3
- Thread starter KristianJ
- Start date
Been a long time since I had one, but IIRC you slightly loosen the nut or screw that the main flywheel spins on, just enough to work the belt around it. You don't actually remove anything. When done tighten the spindle back to where it was; don't over tighten. In other words, if it takes 2 turns to get it loose, only turn it twice to tighten. Belt kits probably available on ebay and several other online places. Here's one... Drive belt and counter belt.
http://www.vintage-electronics.cc/teackits.html
FYI, The Teac deck is the same as a Realistic TR-3000, Just different buttons.
http://www.vintage-electronics.cc/teackits.html
FYI, The Teac deck is the same as a Realistic TR-3000, Just different buttons.
Last edited:
Use the Google search, too.
I've done an X-300R, it wasn't very hard. Much easier than some decks I've dealt with.
I've done an X-300R, it wasn't very hard. Much easier than some decks I've dealt with.
Remove the faceplate, remove the large plate with the head assembly and pinch roller linkage on it. The belt is right behind that plate. The belt is only accessible through the front of the unit.
Make sure that you don't use any magnetized screwdrivers near the heads and don't touch any head alignment screws in the process. It would be a good idea to demagnetize the heads when you're all finished with the job. There is no need to remove the heads from the mounting plate, it all comes apart as a unit.
Be careful with the head wires, slide the solenoid plunger out of the solenoid (no need to remove the coil) and make sure that you properly route the head wires when re-assembling the cover. They have a tendency to get hung up and hold the pinch roller linkage back if they aren't put back in the wire holder properly when re-installed.
Make sure to remove any tar or black goo from both the motor pulley and the flywheel before installing the new belt. Rubbing alcohol works well for cleaning the pulley and flywheel.
Make sure that you don't use any magnetized screwdrivers near the heads and don't touch any head alignment screws in the process. It would be a good idea to demagnetize the heads when you're all finished with the job. There is no need to remove the heads from the mounting plate, it all comes apart as a unit.
Be careful with the head wires, slide the solenoid plunger out of the solenoid (no need to remove the coil) and make sure that you properly route the head wires when re-assembling the cover. They have a tendency to get hung up and hold the pinch roller linkage back if they aren't put back in the wire holder properly when re-installed.
Make sure to remove any tar or black goo from both the motor pulley and the flywheel before installing the new belt. Rubbing alcohol works well for cleaning the pulley and flywheel.
Attachments
KristianJ
Hillman owner
Thank you!
This is how I got it. When I lift the plate with the head assembly the capstan stays where it is,and is "free" and now it's possibly with removal of the old belt and to put the new one back, right?
Remarkable it's still possibly to get belts, or are they new (sort of)?
This is how I got it. When I lift the plate with the head assembly the capstan stays where it is,and is "free" and now it's possibly with removal of the old belt and to put the new one back, right?
Remarkable it's still possibly to get belts, or are they new (sort of)?
Belt sizes are fairly standardized. The vast majority of turntable, open reel and cassette belts are still available new, though there are a few oddballs out there that are hard to fit with proper replacements.
Yes, that's the way to do it. You just need to lift the plate enough to clear the tip of the capstan shaft and the new belt will fit right over it. Even if the pulley and flywheel look clean you should still clean the surfaces with alcohol before putting on the new belt.
New belts are available on ebay or through Teac parts. That is a very common and popular model of Teac tape deck, you will have no problem finding a new belt.
I am trying to remove the front face plate of an Teac x-300r to look at the capstan belt, whatever may be left of it (smelled burning rubber). I have removed the 3 screws on the bottom of the unit, the volume knobs.tension lever rollers (may not be using correct names)and plastic head cover, but cannot remove the main front cover (can only jog it a bit from the bottom). Can someone help me?? Thank you so much. Ralph
tapetech
Repair Professional
Yes, you may need to remove the side/top panel to access more panel screws. I indicated more screws that need to be removed. Remove any screw on the panel basically.
After the panel comes off, then remove the headblock. Several screws hold that on. Make sure not to turn any head alignment screws.
After the panel comes off, then remove the headblock. Several screws hold that on. Make sure not to turn any head alignment screws.
Attachments
Last edited:
Pablo Alto
New Member
Did you ever figure this out? I'm doing this for the first time and having the same issue. Cannot figure what is holding the faceplate on. Removing the side screws (3 on each side) doesn't help.
I
Pablo Alto
New Member
Hello - I'm new to this - have a TR-3000 and having the same issue as Ralph9 - after removing all the faceplate items AND the 6 side screws, the faceplate still refuses to budge, except for a tiny amount at the bottom. Does one have to remove the back cover first?
Yes, you need to remove the back cover, the feet and the screws holding the metal cover on the TR-3000. Once the machine is all opened up you need to remove the screws holding the faceplate on from the inside.
Pablo Alto
New Member
Thanks! I looked up other old threads (possibly a few of yours) and it confirmed my hunch. My first serious dig into an R2R deck, tho I've repaired turntables, 8-tracks & cassettes before with broken/dissolved belt issues. This will be (ahem) "fun". Thanks again.
