Restoring a Pioneer RT-909 Reel-to-Reel

[pustelniakr]

Rich,

That did it! I set the solenoid gap dead nuts in the center of the range and its working perfectly again. Thanks man! :thmbsp::thmbsp:

The RT-909 transport mechanism is the most elegantly simple transport I've had the pleasure of working on. Jolly good show. :thmbsp:

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[spideyjack]

This tutorial is the reason I became a member here, I was googling pioneer rt909 belts and the internet brought me here. I have a low hours deck that stopped about two hours into it's first use (this was in 1991 or 92) it has been sitting every since. I popped the top a month ago and of course the belt is snapped.

I am still in my research phase, I use the search function here at AK constantly and read every post about rtrs I can find. I decided to use my two problem TEAC decks as practice restorations before I jump into such a big job. I am in no hurry to complete any of these projects and sure don't want to destroy any thing by trying to fix it.

Since this thread has been popular again this week, I just wanted to comment, and mostly say thanks for the inspiration.

Truly

spideyjack

 

[pustelniakr]

This tutorial is the reason I became a member here, I was googling pioneer rt909 belts and the internet brought me here. I have a low hours deck that stopped about two hours into it's first use (this was in 1991 or 92) it has been sitting every since. I popped the top a month ago and of course the belt is snapped.

I am still in my research phase, I use the search function here at AK constantly and read every post about rtrs I can find. I decided to use my two problem TEAC decks as practice restorations before I jump into such a big job. I am in no hurry to complete any of these projects and sure don't want to destroy any thing by trying to fix it.

Since this thread has been popular again this week, I just wanted to comment, and mostly say thanks for the inspiration.

Truly

spideyjack

This thread is intended as a dual-purpose aid. You can do a full-up restoration, if you wish, or you can fix what is obviously broke. In your case, I would say, "Fix what you know is broke, and see what remains. Go to the posts dealing with replacing the belt, and git er done."

Belts are available from Pioneer: http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/part.asp?productNum=REB-361

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[spideyjack]

Go to the posts dealing with replacing the belt, and git er done."

you bet! :yes:

 

[8mmag]

"Fix what you know is broke, and see what remains. Go to the posts dealing with replacing the belt, and git er done."

Belts are available from Pioneer: http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/part.asp?productNum=REB-361

The hardest thing about replacing the belt is getting the right screwdriver that fits PERFECTLY into the #2 phillips screws holding the motor plate in place. They are TIGHT and is you're not careful, its easy to strip out the head. I used a hand impact...carefully.

 

[spideyjack]

The hardest thing about replacing the belt is getting the right screwdriver that fits PERFECTLY into the #2 phillips screws holding the motor plate in place. They are TIGHT and is you're not careful, its easy to strip out the head. I used a hand impact...carefully.

Thanks for the tip! I hate stripping out screws.

 

[calman46]

Ok my 909 restore is moving along . All the mechanical and recapping is done. The heads assy is back from JRF and needs to installed. I went over budget, but I had to make some decisions. 1. the upper ball joints were missing ,replaced .2. My playback heads were shot ,replaced with good used (relapped, edged slots , polished and aligned). JRF is a good company they did a nice job and explained everything to me.They also give you all the test reports of your heads. The screws are very soft some heads were already stripped out (capstan motor mount) some were just so tight they stripped. Ace hardware had all but one size (2.6x5mm)which a found at a RC cars hobby shop. I did re flow some solider joints(pre amp) but not all, there were to many IC's and really close joints. I thought I might do more harm then good. Well I will know soon if I have a very expensive paper weight .

 

[CliveGtx]

I have just aquired a RT909 and read this thread about restoring it. My problem is that before I do anything I woould like some advice. The unit powers up and all the lights and meters seem OK. When I pess play the tape mechanism moves up into place and the brake release the motors. But nothing is running. After a few seconds it shuts down and the tape mechanism returns the rest position. If I try to FF or rewind the brakes release but the motors are not running.

All three motors turn by hand. But they don't seem to be getting any power.

What to Do?

 

[8mmag]

I have just aquired a RT909 and read this thread about restoring it. My problem is that before I do anything I woould like some advice. The unit powers up and all the lights and meters seem OK. When I pess play the tape mechanism moves up into place and the brake release the motors. But nothing is running. After a few seconds it shuts down and the tape mechanism returns the rest position. If I try to FF or rewind the brakes release but the motors are not running.

All three motors turn by hand. But they don't seem to be getting any power.

What to Do?

Do you have a tape loaded? If not you will need to hold up both L & R tension arms to get FF & REW to work. It sounds like the capstan motor belt might be FUBAR'd too by the description of the rollers dropping out of engagement after a few seconds. With said tension arms up & power on, the capstans should be spinning, take a look. If not, new belt time.

 

[CliveGtx]

I have a tape loaded and the tension arms are in the right position. I looked at the belt and perhaps it needs replacing but I should see the motor spinning I thought even if the belt was missing. And the FF and rewind should work as they are direct drive it seems and don't rely on the belt. Could it be the tension arms are not signaling any tape loaded even in the correct position?

 

[8mmag]

I have a tape loaded and the tension arms are in the right position. I looked at the belt and perhaps it needs replacing but I should see the motor spinning I thought even if the belt was missing. And the FF and rewind should work as they are direct dive it seems and don't rely on the belt. Could it be the tension arms are not signaling any tape loaded even in the correct position?

I have seen the experts stating that is a common failure mode. You are sure they are up against the tape and not latched in the full down 'tape load' position, right?

 

[CliveGtx]

I am sure the tension arms are in the correct position as shown in post number 25 picture #1

 

[8mmag]

I am sure the tension arms are in the correct position as shown in post number 25 picture #1

My guess would be the microswitches controlled by those arm positions then, but again, I'd wait for the experts to chime in. I'm certainly not one.

 

[onwardjames]

Pustelniakr, I want to personally thank you for taking the time to write up this thread. Your knowledge is a resource of immeasureable value. :thmbsp:

 

[CliveGtx]

I have seen the experts stating that is a common failure mode.

Where did you see this, It seems that the experts are not looking at this thread and I need to explore alternate avenues. My 909 is still on the bench not working.

I too reside in South Eastern Michigan. How about those Spartans.

 

[reba]

1. Fill the bearing ball cups in the rear of each capstan shaft with white lithium grease, then push a nylon thrust bearing ball into each cup, to be retained by the lube (lube should overflow). Refer to pic 1.
   
   
2. Install a new capstan drive belt ( http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/model.asp?modelNum=RT-909 ). It simply goes around the capstans as seen in pic 1.
   
   
3. Install the motor plate, with the motor pulley coming down on the top of the belt, as shown in pic 1. Secure the motor plate with its 4 screws.

Rich P

I recently bought a REB-361 belt from Pioneer for the RT-909. It seems to be very loose. Since I could not open the screws (no matter what I did), after cleaning the old belt goo, I was able to slip the new belt, but it is too loose. Do you have a picture/diagram of the belt with the motor installed, or even a hand drawn diagram how the belt should be. Thanks & appreciate your help.

 

[pustelniakr]

I recently bought a REB-361 belt from Pioneer for the RT-909. It seems to be very loose. Since I could not open the screws (no matter what I did), after cleaning the old belt goo, I was able to slip the new belt, but it is too loose. Do you have a picture/diagram of the belt with the motor installed, or even a hand drawn diagram how the belt should be. Thanks & appreciate your help.

The post you quoted has such an illustration...

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[pinky6]

Rich Im almost ready to put back together the tension roller assy and want to make sure I understand your instructions on lubricating back in post #14. I have read it a couple times and know that you always refer to the lubrication with the white lithium grease except for the damper assy with the diff lube. Are these the only 2 lubricating agents used in this rebuild of the tension rollers?
I was curious because step 5 you mention to lubricate but you don't mention white lithium grease like on everything else. Just was wandering if any machine oil like the capstans used was used in any of these steps. Thanks Rich.

 

[pustelniakr]

Rich Im almost ready to put back together the tension roller assy and want to make sure I understand your instructions on lubricating back in post #14. I have read it a couple times and know that you always refer to the lubrication with the white lithium grease except for the damper assy with the diff lube. Are these the only 2 lubricating agents used in this rebuild of the tension rollers?
I was curious because step 5 you mention to lubricate but you don't mention white lithium grease like on everything else. Just was wandering if any machine oil like the capstans used was used in any of these steps. Thanks Rich.

The good thing about white lithium grease is that it stays where you put it. You do not want it mixing with the damping fluid, and you don't want too much damping fluid. If the damping fluid migrates out, you will have the same problem all over again. Lube with white lithium grease, damp with silicone fluid. If you get too much damping fluid, don't just wipe it off the outside. Take it all back apart and clean it up and go again, with less. Youdon't want ANY outside the damper. It will gum up the works.

Put only as much damping fluid as will cause the necessary damping. You want none squeezing out. You don't want it anywhere but inside the damping assy. You want the tension rollers to snap closed, and the damper mechanism to catch up around 2 secs later. If it does not snap closed, the damping fluid got out, or the assembly is not assembled correctly.

The quick snap closed is what stops the tape at the end of play or FF/REW, without delay. The damping action is what keeps the tape from audibly bouncing around on the heads, when going into play or out of pause.

PS. The newer tension roller assemblies are simpler than what I illustrated...fewer parts, less loose ones to lose. Pay close attention to how they were put together, and reassemble them that way. Take pics as you go. The principle is the same as the older ones.

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[pinky6]

Thanks Rich, and all of us here at Audiokarma really appreciate your help and guidence. Brian