Room Correction (probably dumb questions, sorry gang)

[Allison3]

I've moved my listening room upstairs after many years in a pretty perfect space elsewhere in the house. My system is

• Harman/Kardon HK990 integrated amp
• H/K HD990 CD player
• "The" AR Turntable/Linn Basik/Shure V15MR
• NHT Classic Threes (on 24" Pangea stands)
  
• (new) NHT CS-10 Subwoofer

The amp has EZSet/EQ built in, and it worked wonderfully in my old room with my Allison 3's. But I haven't used it with a sub. I've got a tripod on which I mount the mic, so I can position it properly.

Which leads me to a couple of questions. During the (automatic, not manual) room correction procedure:

• should I leave my tone controls flat?
• How should I set the sub controls (level, crossover)?

 

[sqlsavior]

I would try to set the sub level and crossover as good as I can by ear first. Leave your tone controls flat during calibration.

Does the manual have any instructions regarding subwoofers and calibration?

 

[JoeESP9]

If you're using automatic calibration I suggest starting with all tone controls set flat. Turn the subs crossover all the way up and the level to ~50%.

If setting the sub manually, I suggest setting the crossover at the -3dB point of your mains and the level at 50%. Adjust to taste from there. If you can tell you have a subwoofer it's most likely too loud. A subwoofer should only be noticed when you turn it off. The lack of foundation tones should be obvious.

 

[Allison3]

OK, so I ran the program as recommended above (I set the crossover to "automatic"), and everything sounds quite fantastic, thank you.

One thing I noticed though, is that at regular (i.e., not ear-splitting) volumes, applying the room correction leads to a VERY low signal from the sub (even with tracks with deep bass.) In fact, at those volumes, the sub shuts off entirely. When I turn it up, the sub kicks in, which makes sense, to provide the bottom end that the L+R speakers can't without distorting.

Switching to just DSP mode (i.e., no room correction curve), the output from the sub is much more pronounced. Which you'd expect, I guess.

I never thought the Classic Threes went THAT low - their specs state 45 Hz as their low end - but I found it interesting that in my 13'x13', well-carpeted and furnitured room, that the main speakers would carry most of the load, most of the time, after equalization.

Just observations - like I said above, the sound after room eq is wayyyyyyyyyy better than with the Eq switched off, but I was a bit surprised at how little the sub actually has to work.

 

[JoeESP9]

One thing I've noticed about many powered subs that have signal sensing auto on is that at lower volume levels many don't work properly. They have a tendency to turn the sub off at lower volume levels. IME the solution is to simply turn the sub on and forget about signal activation. Most of the built in amplifiers are Class D and use very little electricity when idling.

 

[musichal]

OK, so I ran the program as recommended above (I set the crossover to "automatic"), and everything sounds quite fantastic, thank you.

One thing I noticed though, is that at regular (i.e., not ear-splitting) volumes, applying the room correction leads to a VERY low signal from the sub (even with tracks with deep bass.) In fact, at those volumes, the sub shuts off entirely. When I turn it up, the sub kicks in, which makes sense, to provide the bottom end that the L+R speakers can't without distorting.

Switching to just DSP mode (i.e., no room correction curve), the output from the sub is much more pronounced. Which you'd expect, I guess.

I never thought the Classic Threes went THAT low - their specs state 45 Hz as their low end - but I found it interesting that in my 13'x13', well-carpeted and furnitured room, that the main speakers would carry most of the load, most of the time, after equalization.

Just observations - like I said above, the sound after room eq is wayyyyyyyyyy better than with the Eq switched off, but I was a bit surprised at how little the sub actually has to work.

Many subwoofer owners set there levels too high for my taste, I've noticed in the past when helping friends or customer with initial connection, placement and SPL set-up. One young fellow actually said, "Move over and let me set that, I paid six hundred dollars for that thing and I want to hear it!"

It takes me weeks to find a level where I can finally leave it alone. By ear alone. Not saying that is better, by any means, it's just how I roll.

 

[Allison3]

Many subwoofer owners set there levels too high for my taste, I've noticed in the past when helping friends or customer with initial connection, placement and SPL set-up. One young fellow actually said, "Move over and let me set that, I paid six hundred dollars for that thing and I want to hear it!"

It takes me weeks to find a level where I can finally leave it alone. By ear alone. Not saying that is better, by any means, it's just how I roll.

Oh, don't get me wrong, I'm happy to have the sub stay out of the way. My previous speakers were Allison 3s, with a very tasteful low end; my goal here with the NHTs was to try to get the sub to fill in what the NHTs can't.

 

[Allison3]

One thing I've noticed about many powered subs that have signal sensing auto on is that at lower volume levels many don't work properly. They have a tendency to turn the sub off at lower volume levels. IME the solution is to simply turn the sub on and forget about signal activation. Most of the built in amplifiers are Class D and use very little electricity when idling.

That would work, but I'm using the SVS wireless kit so I can place the sub where I need to (I'm space limited along the speaker wall, and my best place for the sub is on the other side of a doorway to the right of the R speaker, and I can't run a cable from my amp to the sub.)

 

[JoeESP9]

Placement or wireless has nothing to do with auto on. Auto on is strictly volume level related. If you want a powered sub to function at lower volume levels you almost always have to leave it turned on, not auto on.

 

[Allison3]

Placement or wireless has nothing to do with auto on. Auto on is strictly volume level related. If you want a powered sub to function at lower volume levels you almost always have to leave it turned on, not auto on.

You're correct, but the CS-10 has only one "on" mode, and it's Auto.