Sansui 5000A bulb replacement

smokinone

Active Member
I have just ordered new bayonet (NOS) bulbs and want to replace all the bulbs as I am going to restore this unit best I can. I have already bought the Skippys parts needed to replace the bad stuff on the 1040 boards, which mine has. I will also just go ahead and replace the 2SD118's although this unit does work as it is now. I have MJ15024G for those. A recap on the lytic's is also going to be done.

Back to the bulb change. Before I get too crazy and have this in more pieces than I need to, could someone possibly enlighten me to the procedure? I am thinking that the front needs to be pulled of to get at them, but it almost looks like the holders may be able to be taken away from the back.

I will try and post some pics as I go along.
 
Well, I haven't got to the bulbs yet, but here's where I'm at with this thing.


what a mess.jpg updated driver boards.jpg


I have ordered ELNA SIMLIC II caps for replacements, and also transistors to replace the 2SC458 Hitachi throughout the receiver.
 
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First let me say that without this forum, I probably wouldn't have attempted this restore. I have had this unit for about 8 years plus from a yard sale and initially thought it to be non working. When I hooked it up and it came to life I was surprised. So, I immediately turned it off and started the 1040 board mod and began ordering SIMLIC II caps for replacement of the lytics.

I have now, after ordering the ELNA SIMLIC II (LAO-80V332MS55PX#B) caps for the power supply, C003, 004, 005, 006, been wondering if these are a good choice. I bumped up the capacitance from 2200uf to 3300uf, but kept the voltage the same. After all, the originals have lasted 40 some years so they would seem to me to be adequate.

Any thought on these as a replacement?
 
Looks like you're into it pretty deep as is. I'd take the front off to get at all those lamps. Some can be got to from the inside but the lower dial lights are tough. Put a drop of oil on the power switch while you're in there. Give the dial and face a general cleaning, careful with the lettering. Tooth brush and some 409 really shine up those knobs too.
 
Chasing a noise in my old 5000 I rigged up a testing deal, hate to get it all back together and not have it actually fixed. The notorious c458 transistor was the culprit, as called out many times here on AK. sansui1040.jpg
 
Thanks Tom. I am just getting the caps replaced on the amp boards, I made some miscalculations on the physical sizes of the replacement caps when upping the voltage ratings so I had to order a few more, Something I should have looked at from the beginning as I did getting the larger filter caps. Live and learn.
The lettering is good on mine thankfully, I have taken all the knobs, heatsinks, and whatever else I could get into a jar of weak Simple Green to get them cleaned up. I have some NOVUS plastic clean and shine I will use. It is a pretty dirty unit and looks like it has seen some moisture in it's time, but I think it will cleanup nicely.
As soon as I get the amp boards (1040) and the 4 2SD118 transistors replaced and mounted I will fire it up to see if it still works. Then I'll pull the front off and get the lamps replaced. I'll post some more pics as I go.

I appreciate your knowledge...this is my first time.
 
Chasing a noise in my old 5000 I rigged up a testing deal, hate to get it all back together and not have it actually fixed. The notorious c458 transistor was the culprit, as called out many times here on AK. View attachment 822119


I did change the 2SC458 transistors with KSC1845 in the process.

Thanks Tom for taking interest, it all helps.
 
Just got around to getting the bulbs changed, well all the bayonet types. There are still 2 screw type bulbs left, but they are encased in some sort of white adhesive that I don't want to mess with at this time, and those bulbs still work...just cleaned the dust off.


I was able to get to 6 of the bulbs through the front...a real hassle for a guy with big hands too...

2 on the right

2more.jpg

The top 4 bulbs needed to have the metal plate removed to get to. I forgot to get the pics with this plate off, but it is 3 screws and a little bending. Careful of the pointer and wires.


top4.jpg

4 on the left

lower4.jpg

There is also a bayonet style behind the meters on the left that just pulls away with the grommet. It is hooded so be careful of that as well, it's a little fragile.

Now to get the front plate cleaned up with some new pads and get the front back on.
 
The "white adhesive" is actually paint, to lock the bulbs into the mounts. You can twist off the bulbs without hurting anything on the mount.
 
Finally finished up the 1040 boards with the ELNA SIMLICII caps. I will be working on getting them back in as soon as I get over the flu/cold that's going around.


IMG_1524.JPG



I also put some gold plated binding posts in for the speaker output. Also recapped the ripple board and replaced the 458 transistors in the board under that (protector board) with the KSC1845F.

IMG_1516.JPG


It's slow going... but going
 
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Put the rest of the amp section back together, replaced the 4 big caps and 1 other 1000uf snap cap in.

I used bergquist silicone pads to replace the mica insulators on the original transistors, which had no grease or compound on them.

new_old_outputs.JPG

1040_caps1_top.JPG

newcaps1_bot.JPG

I think I'm going to put it back together and listen to it a while before finishing the rest of the recap project. Of the caps I removed and replace, most were within tolerance, but I did have a couple that were twice the capacitance they were rated at. I had none that were shorted or less rated uf.

I took the KLH indoor/outdoor speakers out of the circuit and hooked up to still a inexpensive set of Technics SB-S25 speakers. Much better sound. When I get it back together after I get the new foam tape for the front panels, I will move it out to the Klipsch in the front room and see how it sounds with some Steely Dan LP's, or Santana.
 
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That has to be one of the cleanest 5000As I have seen since the late 60s.

Thanks, I did quite a bit of cleaning. Looked like it had seen some water and had some mud and such on the heatsinks and back end.

I just hooked up my Denon DP45 with a AT440Mlb cart in my work area, still haven't put it all back together yet. Playing some Boston "Don't look back"...very very nice. I had a little distortion with the FM radio, but super clear and very nice sound with the phono. Even with the Technics SB25's I think it has better sound than the Marantz 5010 thru the SIMAUDIO moon. I'll have to do some side by sides when I get it put back together. Seems more warm and friendly...if there's such a thing.
 
. I had a little distortion with the FM radio, but super clear and very nice sound with the phono..

That's where I'm at with mine now, some distortion in FM, not bad in mono, more so in stereo. Strong bass notes bring it out. Alignment? Perfect in all other inputs. My winter project is probably going to take all winter seems like.

Good looking 5000a you have there and real quality work I think. A little pride goes a long way. Thanks for sharing.
 
I was doing some garage cleaning last week and found the wood case for this. I forgot I even had it, thought I just lost the feet so I purchased some off the bay. Evidently I pulled the case when I originally picked it up, and it was several years before I got around to doing this work.
The case is a little beat up, but I'll give it a good cleaning and maybe some sort of restoration maybe before sliding the receiver back into it. Way too much stuff getting stacked around here:)
 
Smokinone, nice thread. I have a 5000a that fortunately is all original and mint and has the f6013 boards, but I need to have it worked on as it pops rather loud when turned on and has a slight hum from the speakers with volume off and is just getting old. The tech I will be using will do whatever I want done, so I have been doing a lot of research to be able to tell how much more I want done besides "just fix the problem". These LED bulbs sound like the way to go. And thanks to others here who added input and suggestions. They are all helpful. This is a real classic Sansui that I want to give some new life to. My 8080db will be next. Also at some point I will enter my serial numbers into the data base. Again, nice job.
 
Thanks for the flowers.
I went with NOS glass replacement bulbs on this one. Found a guy on the bay that had a box of them. This was and is my first attempt at a restoration and I wanted to go as stock as possible for some reason. I did put LED's in my Luxman R-1050 though but that's another thread. I did not do the equalizer board (F-1036), tone board (F-1029) but may down the road possibly, it such a bear to work on these boards since all the component leads are folded over. It sounded pretty darn good after I did what I thought was the most important work first, and when I put it back together and got to listening, I left it alone.
These receivers do pop through the speakers when turning them on. They don't have to isolation circuit built in like the 8080 and probably most of the later receivers and amps. I put a 10 ohm, 2 watt I think, resistor across the "B" speaker terminals, and switch to "B" with the volume down when turning on, then back to the "A" speaker selection when listening. Of course that doesn't fix the hum though.
I have a working 8080 that I keep wanting to get to, I ordered and have the replacement components already from a list provided by one of the great AK'ers here. Just trying to find the time.

Good luck on the restore.


Here's a shot of the back of where I had to remove the shield and get the bulbs from the back.


Bulbs_5000A.jpg

As always, a big thanks to all the pros here that help we less knowledgeable types attempting to revive this old equipment.
 
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Opps, somehow from the start of this thread to my reply I went from NOS to LED. Probably because I have been looking at some LED's just before reading your thread and still had them on the brain. Nice pictures.
 
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