Servicing a SONY DAT machine (Pictorial)

Now going back to the take-up-reel's rod again where there is no indent to hold a washer at the very top of the rod, I did some retrofitting/modification as shown on the attached pictures. Basically, I cut out a small plastic piece with a small hole on it and attach it to the top of the rod and then I use some JB Weld glue to hold it down. Yes, there isn't much surface area on top of the rod to hold the glue but that is the best I can do for now. I'll wait for the glue to dry for at least four hours and then I'll report back later.

To answer hdrobien question, no, I don't believe the previous owner had ever replaced the rod, well, at least I don't see why it was replaced. I still believe this was a quality control issue when this unit was first manufactured where a wrong rod was installed.

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I just had a look at some service manuals.

The DATM-100 transport has been modified through the years and ultimately became the DATM-110
- on earlier models (DTC-57ES/670/59ES/690) there is no spring on part #380, but there is a spring on the yellow solenoid
- on later models (DTC-60ES/ZE700) there is a spring on part #380, but not on the yellow solenoid

And we have to take into account that some units using the earlier assembly may had been "upgraded".

But the rod without a notch remains a mystery.
 
After letting the JB Weld dry for 8 hours, I figured it's dry enough to do some testing. Well, as suspected, the fast forward function is working now!

Next, I'll do some analog recording from the CD player and see if it records.
 
Well, after an hour of trying to record something, I have to say I'm very disappointed that it will not record at all (more below). I can't test whether it will play or not because I don't have a Digital Audio Tape with content to test it. Anyway, this is what I have done so far.

For a sanity check, I have tried recording from two CD players, both using the analog output but it won't record at all. Let me explain.
  • On DTE-670's front display, if I adjust the recording level, it does register, telling me that it is receiving the signal from the CD player.
  • On play back, the front display of DTE-670 doesn't show any playback level at all, not even some weak level, indicating to me that the audio signal isn't recorded at all.
  • If I switch the input on my pre-amp to this DTE-670 (normally it's on CD input), it will produce a high pitch sound, and the front display of DTE-670 will show max. recording level. I don't think this is normal at all.
Would bad SM capacitor on the head pre-amp caused it not to be able to record? What about weak heads on the audio drum? What about dirty record microswitch on the housing assembly? I guess I will have to do some more troubleshooting.
 
On page 29 of the service manual: on IC01, the RF Amp, pin 29 to 31 shows the recording Vcc, Bias, Gnd. I wonder if the voltage to the RF Amp's IC is low, it would probably not be able to record. I guess I'll need to open up the RF Amp module to take some measurement to find out whether this is indeed the cause of the problem.
 
I'm glad to report that after replacing the capacitors, the unit will record and play music now. And the good thing is, there is no more other issues.
 
I've got a pair of Sony PCM-7010F DAT Recorders. One of these will play for a few seconds from a just powered-up (cold) condition and then begin to sound distorted. The BAD COND. light comes on, which indicates a bad tape is being played. Thing is, all cassettes, even new, are effected. If I let the unit warm up for about an hour and then play a tape all is well. I have read that my problem is perhaps caused by cracked solder and/or bad caps in the op amp section. Now, I have zero knowledge, skill, parts or equipment to fix this unit, so I'm wondering who can properly repair this unit from a US facility?24641850610_58cb78db5b_o.jpg
 
I would first suspect hardened grease jamming the left guide. Known typical issue on this model.

After warm up and some exercises, the grease soften and it could work fine. But the problem will worsen in the futur.

Point is, it needs an almost full dismantling of the mecha, cleaning, lubing and adjustments. Not an easy task even if you are

You can check that quite easily: when playing, try to gently push the left guide backward (toward the front of the deck in fact). If it moves without strengh, it is it.
 
I would first suspect hardened grease jamming the left guide. Known typical issue on this model.

After warm up and some exercises, the grease soften and it could work fine. But the problem will worsen in the futur.

Point is, it needs an almost full dismantling of the mecha, cleaning, lubing and adjustments. Not an easy task even if you are

You can check that quite easily: when playing, try to gently push the left guide backward (toward the front of the deck in fact). If it moves without strengh, it is it.
So, the problem is not bad caps and/or solder? OK, do you know where in the US I can have my Recorder serviced?
 
I just got dtc-690 off ebay, can anyone tell me where I can find door cover that is missing. The tapes door opens and then closes right away how I fix it. Remove old grease apply new one, replace belt? Should I recap main board ? Does anyone have handy capacitor list kit ?
 
Recap is very rarely the answer.

I would start by spaying deoxit on the door mechanism switches (left side of the transport).
 
I did that but seems the belt is at fault it does not open the doors far enough to press the switch. If I give little push it stays open.
 
Help with Sony PCM-2700 please:
I recently made a recording on this unit on a used tape I have to say but had a few drop outs (about 5) on a two hour tape. The unit was aligned and the rf caps replaced. What could be the issue please as this has happened before. The drop outs are just a split second but enough to ruin a recording. I could check the guide alignment again but doubt it’s the issue. Cheers.
 
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