Sherwood S-7100A Receiver

birchoak

Hi-Fi Nut
I stumbled across this receiver surfing Ebay one night and the trifecta was there: very clean unit, reputable seller, low price + shipping. So I pulled the trigger, and after checking the unit inside and out, I powered it up with a DBT, then played some music through my crappy test speakers (there isn't even a name on them; that's how shameful they are). Well, this receiver made even the test speakers sound good, so I tried a pair of Layfayette speakers I climbed into a dumpster to retrieve about a year ago. Wow! I then paired them with the Wharfedale Dentons and, man, I never heard those speakers sing like that before!

The Sherwood is a small, 25 watt receiver (a Marantz 2230 in its case dwarfs it) and weighs barely 20 lbs., but it absolutely kicks ass and sounds much louder than its power rating would suggest. Curious, I took a closer look at the thing. From what I can see, everything (except the new LED dial lights) is stock and therefore 49 years old. It pulls in clean, strong FM in both channels with no drift. There are no switches on the back panel to get dirty and foul up the music signal. The case has no vents or slots, so the wee beasty is very clean inside and one need not fear damage from fluid spills (why do people put their drinks on top of stereo equipment?). The ON/OFF switch is also the VOLUME switch, so there is absolutely no way to turn the thing on with the volume at a dangerous level. I've heard this switch can go and may resort to activating the Sherwood with a power strip, but it seems just dandy right now.

Taking the case apart, there are a few pleasant surprises. Like other older receivers from this era, there are no visible screws or fasteners to interrupt the surface of the lovely wooden case; the chassis slips out of the case after you loosen a handful of very substantial machine screws on the bottom of the unit. From there, you remove the steel bottom by removing only two screws! Well, that's easy. The face plate comes off like this: pull off the seven knobs, then twist off a few retaining nuts. That's it. No screws holding the face plate on whatsoever, and yet the mounting configuration is sturdy. So simple!

Inside, there's virtually no dust, and plenty of space. Things are laid out neatly and the dial pointer is simply a flourescent paint job--no teeny wires and bulbs to contend with, and I like that. Sherwood kept it simple and elegant with this model. The bulbs are not crowded at all and easy to get at (try changing the bulbs in a Bose Spatial Control Receiver and you'll appreciate this feature big time). Two big caps are secured with a steel hoop on the top of the board; underneath you'll find one fat cap secured with its own steel hoop. It's so bloody simple!

That this thing sounds so good, let alone works, with 49 year old components blows my mind. I hit the tuning head with some Deoxit drops and flooded the controls with Deoxit, then let it dry upstairs in a warm room for a few days to be on the safe side. I am considering a slow, careful recap, stopping after every few caps to test my work via DBT and playing music through it. I wouldn't recap the whole thing at once.

I don't know how, but the thing seems to have more oomph than my recapped 2230 and was a hell of a lot more affordable. The five lower knobs are solid aluminum and the inner dial is real glass. I would buy another one tomorrow.
 
I agree that those are really nice "Sleeper" receivers. They can be found very affordable, and sound and look great. Just be careful on spraying to volume control, with cleaners. There is a small plastic tab on the back of the volume control (internal) that can snap when sprayed with certain cleaners. I recommend only a very small shot of faderlube into the control by the carbon pads. Try not to saturate that control. If the tab breaks, the unit will either not turn on, or will not turn off.
 
I've had good luck with every Sherwood from that era I've owne. They all seem to sound good at worst, all the way up to great. I don't know how accurate they are, but love the sound. I Leo like the fact that they don't take a bite out of the wallet like Marantz, Pioneer, and Sansui.

Glad you got a deal on it. Most people overlook Sherwood.

Allen
 
I agree that those are really nice "Sleeper" receivers. They can be found very affordable, and sound and look great. Just be careful on spraying to volume control, with cleaners. There is a small plastic tab on the back of the volume control (internal) that can snap when sprayed with certain cleaners. I recommend only a very small shot of faderlube into the control by the carbon pads. Try not to saturate that control. If the tab breaks, the unit will either not turn on, or will not turn off.

I used faderlube look on my volume knob and it's held up well, but on my first one, I made the mistake of using deoxit and killed the power/volume knob. Wish I had know about Audiokarma before I touched it. (Edited because I'm a victim of autocorrect)
 
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Oh boy. That ship has already sailed. I used Deoxit on the power/volume knob. Straight to hell for this boy. Thought that stuff was safe for plastics, no? Well, if it goes, it goes. Hook it up to a power strip or wire in a power switch somewhere inconspicuous, like the rear panel. I don't know why these don't get as much attention as Marantz, Pioneer, etc.--this sounds as good or better and is a much cleaner design.
 
it may be ok, but going forward, I recommend for volume, balance, tone controls, and even slider controls that have the carbon pads Faderlube F100, which is a more controlled spray shot, or Fader lube F5 if the control seems extra gritty, but be careful as it can really hose out the control and get all over.

For switches like lever switches, function switches, and any other type that has metal to metal contacts I use Deoxit D100 for a more controlled spray, and D5 if its extra spotty, or if it is a long switch with a lot of contacts and you want to make sure the deoxit got all the way in there. Same concers about the D% as it can get all over.
 
I don't know either. I have a Pioneer SX-1010 and a Sherwood s-9910. I find them very comparable except in cost/resale value. If you ever find one snag it. Lots of power and a really smooth sound.
 
I clutched my pearls in shock when I read that you used Deoxit on your volume control. Otherwise, congrats on your Sherwood, which is one of my most modest, but best sounding, pieces of equipment. As an aside, let me point out that it is not a 25 watt receiver, but a 14 watt receiver. That explains the lack of vents on the case - no watts, no heat. But those watts are mighty ones, as you no doubt have discovered.
 
I have a 7100 and it can flat out rock with some good speakers. Had it in the garage and would shake stuff off the wall. WAY underrated.
 
I clutched my pearls in shock when I read that you used Deoxit on your volume control. Otherwise, congrats on your Sherwood, which is one of my most modest, but best sounding, pieces of equipment. As an aside, let me point out that it is not a 25 watt receiver, but a 14 watt receiver. That explains the lack of vents on the case - no watts, no heat. But those watts are mighty ones, as you no doubt have discovered.

I stand corrected, my good sir. SM indicates a lowly 14 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms, 20-20,000 Hertz Donuts, but Gods, what the Sherwood does with those 14 watts is an undeniable feat of electronic prestidigitation. And 14 watts keeps it off the radar of most consumers because they think it will sound anemic.

On another note, has anyone recapped one of these? I absolutely do not want to lay a finger on this thing, but it seems like 50 years is, well, kind of a long time for even the finest electrolytic caps. I would do it very gradually, perhaps the big caps first, then the PS, then main amp board, stopping to check my work every few caps via DBT and playing actual music through it. I am particularly curious what people used for the two 35V 2200uF caps on top of the board (filter caps?) and the big, fat 63V 2200uF cap strapped underneath said board (is this also a filter cap?). Assuming these caps are NOT in the signal path, would I want to use non-audio grade, industrial type caps rated for high ripple current, vs. Nichicon Gold Tunes?
 
I stand corrected, my good sir. SM indicates a lowly 14 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms, 20-20,000 Hertz Donuts, but Gods, what the Sherwood does with those 14 watts is an undeniable feat of electronic prestidigitation. And 14 watts keeps it off the radar of most consumers because they think it will sound anemic.
The Sherwood is one of the best of the low-powered receivers that are attractive alternatives to their higher-powered and more expensive competitors. I regard it right up there with (and possibly better than) the Advent 300, Radio Shack STA-7 and Yamaha CR-220.
 
Lots of Sherwood fans on this site.

I have yet to read any real determined criticism of the S7100-A, other than the modest peak power output.
 
I have the 7100a at deer camp (beer camp) with cerwin vega D 3....It impresses me every time...34$ on ebay...its a keeper.
 
It doesn't like a 4 OHM speaker load. Or even 6 nominal.

Huh. It's currently playing through 6 ohm speakers and it sounds amazing to me. Could you elaborate? Does it run out of gas when you turn it up? I've only got it at about 9 o'clock or so.
 
I never had a problem with running a pair of 4 ohm EPI M100 and the 7100a. It's rated 4-16 ohms. It really does sound more powerful than it is. Not sure why it sounds so nice, but it does.
 
I have some very hungry 4 ohm Ar3a's. It wouldn't run them past a whisper. It was better with my 6 ohm Wharfedale W70d's. I suspect they drop to 4 ohm's. They drained it on bass dynamics at a reasonable volume. It just wouldn't play them. The match put out very smooth mud, but no clipping. The 7100a just can't keep up with the 70's bleeding all the power out. The 70's are not at all hungry. The problem is only noticeable when loaded with a heavy bass line and a hard bass dynamic is added to the load. The dynamic will be absent.
So I got the S-8900a. Now we're cooking with gas. Big orchestra is big. And loud. And clean.
And it runs the AR3a's.
I think the 8900 sounds as good or better than the 7100a. It has the magic too.
 
Ooh, you are tempting me. That's why I love this place. Some people talk about how vintage wines taste; we talk about how vintage hi-fi sounds. "It has the magic too" is all I needed to hear. So now I'll look for a S-8900. It's probably not as dead simple as the S-7100A but that's ok. I should mention that the S-7100A is sitting 12" from my face on my desk and the speakers are not much further away. So I don't need to push the little Sherwood very hard to immerse myself in sound. I think speaker positioning is extremely important and can greatly influence how good you think a system is. I know there are more tweaks I could do but I get lazy :(

And thank you for elaborating.
 
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