SL-1100-SL-1700 owners club
- Thread starter hoodie
- Start date
Great point about the old stylus may not needing replacement if it has not been used much. It is a quad though although I think someone chimed in on a thread somewhere that a quad is fine to use on non quad stuff.
I have a dual 1228 as well and part of this was to have an idler, belt and the 1300.
I have a dual 1228 as well and part of this was to have an idler, belt and the 1300.
Not so fast! I accidently called the owner of the 1300 and once we each realized who we were he asked if I was still interested in the TT. SOLD!
Now I just need to figure out the Stylus because it is unfortunately shot. An expensive one too. pickering XUV cart. Re-styl it (Jico $150) or go with something like an entirely new Denon 110?
Now I just need to figure out the Stylus because it is unfortunately shot. An expensive one too. pickering XUV cart. Re-styl it (Jico $150) or go with something like an entirely new Denon 110?
CaramelBear
Member
Hey there I am currently in a problem where I'm looking for a replacement counter weight for my Technics Sl-1310. Anyone know where I can buy one?
Stanton681EEES
Addicted Member
Hi the counter weight from a SL1200MKII will fit. It will be a bit heavier in weight than the stock one. Other option is to try that very famous place that lots of people for some strange reason don't like callling it by it's name
Ebay.......................
CaramelBear
Member
Thank you so much @stanton681ees and revox-b77. I found it and ordered it under the SL1200 mk2.
Just picked up a SL1500 MKII at a yard sale for 10 bucks, missing the dust cover and has a broken stylus. When I took it home and plugged it in, the speed control was not working. On both 33 and 45 rpm the table speeds up to several hundred RPM. I just tried to use my stop watch on my cell phone to get an idea of the RPM. I took the mat off so I could count the revs in 30 seconds using the sticker on the platter. (large white one with lube instructions) It goes so fast that the sticker just turns to a blur, at least several hundred RPM. Hitting stop doesn't put the electric brake on either, it just coast down.
I have read a lot of post on these TT and this doesn't sound like a dirty speed pot problem, more like a failed IC. Anybody know this range of TT enough to know what models share the same IC set? Or have any other ideas?
Thanks
BillWojo
I have read a lot of post on these TT and this doesn't sound like a dirty speed pot problem, more like a failed IC. Anybody know this range of TT enough to know what models share the same IC set? Or have any other ideas?
Thanks
BillWojo
Roivas
Well-Known Member
By popular demand, and out of respect for another Technics Owners thread started by AK member Roivas, lets have a thread devoted to the Technics SL-1300/ 1400/ 1500 turntables. I've had (3) SL-1500's and an SL-1400. Still have the 1400 and a 1500. The 1500 has been modded and gets most of the play.
What say you FanboiS, show off your decks
So, fun story. I've been looking for a changer for awhile and just picked one up, an SL-1350 (with the 45 spindle!!!). It's not totally functional yet, but when it is I'll be posting a pic of it here. Now I can be a member of both clubs.
If I get a 1200, I'll have the full hat-trick!
Geeze, what about including us 1900 owners!
Bramc
New Member
Greeting Technics SL peeps.
I was re-drected here from someone in another Technics thread.
My original message:
I have a SL-1500 (not MK) that I have paid $100 to to have the cables rewired. The bigger problem is the tonearm wires that I yanked out when I pulled the headshell "holder" from the tonearm, ripping the soldered wires apart. When I naively attempted resoldering, I melted the nylon-isn piece that holds the contact springs in. Rewiring look to be very very challenging.
I am hoping to find a donor table online and I was wondering what other SL models are compatible. It seems easiest to just swap the entire tonearm assembly, but if I could find just the tonearm section that might be worth the effort as well. It keeps rock solid time and I'd like to pass it down to my 18-year-old, but I'm tempted to cut my losses.
I appreciate your help.
I was re-drected here from someone in another Technics thread.
My original message:
I have a SL-1500 (not MK) that I have paid $100 to to have the cables rewired. The bigger problem is the tonearm wires that I yanked out when I pulled the headshell "holder" from the tonearm, ripping the soldered wires apart. When I naively attempted resoldering, I melted the nylon-isn piece that holds the contact springs in. Rewiring look to be very very challenging.
I am hoping to find a donor table online and I was wondering what other SL models are compatible. It seems easiest to just swap the entire tonearm assembly, but if I could find just the tonearm section that might be worth the effort as well. It keeps rock solid time and I'd like to pass it down to my 18-year-old, but I'm tempted to cut my losses.
I appreciate your help.
rainman14624
New Member
Bought a SL-1400 and Audio Technica AT-14Sa cartridge in 1977. Spent big money back then, when I was making a whopping $145 a week. Turntable was $200 and cartridge was $85. Still in service, although I have about a half-dozen TTs I rotate - Pioneer PL-400, PL-5, Dual 1215s. Only other Technics table is an SL-D2.Take that back, I've also got a Technics SL-5.
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Did not know that there was a club that I can belong to but here it is!
SL 1401, was given to me by my sainted oldest brother a few years ago and I have gotten it lubed, new cartridge (AT 440MLb) and it sounds great!
I don't know much about these 1401's, other than they were only made a short time in the late 70's, I think only one year.
[URL=http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/eaglesnest_1412/media/tt1_zpsscz70izg.jpg.html]
[/URL][URL=http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/eaglesnest_1412/media/tt2_zpsnaauihe2.jpg.html]
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SL 1401, was given to me by my sainted oldest brother a few years ago and I have gotten it lubed, new cartridge (AT 440MLb) and it sounds great!
I don't know much about these 1401's, other than they were only made a short time in the late 70's, I think only one year.
[URL=http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/eaglesnest_1412/media/tt1_zpsscz70izg.jpg.html]
[/URL][URL=http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/eaglesnest_1412/media/tt2_zpsnaauihe2.jpg.html]
[/URL]The 1x01 series are great turntables, I like the looks of them with the distinctive platter and the recessed strobo, and they perform well! It is a kind of hybrid between the MK-none series and the MK2 series. I like them better than the MK-none series because of the Quartz Lock (no drift problems), the lighter arm with the newly designed gimbal suspension, as well as the heavier platter, all pretty much like the MK2 version (though the platter is a bit lighter).
The suspended platter and arm + the rubber damped bottom is what it has in common with the 1600-1800 non-MK series, but as said it has the better gimbal suspension. It only misses out on the VTA adjustments of the MK2 series and contrary to the other models it lacks pitch control, but for most that won't be a problem at all. Good thing is that they do not have the arm lift problem of the MK2 series. For this particular models the buttons get sticky after years but that can be solved by cleaning.
All in all, I rate them equal to my MK2's in the sound performance and build quality. On the plus side they are a bit simpler so easier to maintain/repair, on the down side they lack the versatility of VTA adjustment and pitch control.
The suspended platter and arm + the rubber damped bottom is what it has in common with the 1600-1800 non-MK series, but as said it has the better gimbal suspension. It only misses out on the VTA adjustments of the MK2 series and contrary to the other models it lacks pitch control, but for most that won't be a problem at all. Good thing is that they do not have the arm lift problem of the MK2 series. For this particular models the buttons get sticky after years but that can be solved by cleaning.
All in all, I rate them equal to my MK2's in the sound performance and build quality. On the plus side they are a bit simpler so easier to maintain/repair, on the down side they lack the versatility of VTA adjustment and pitch control.
I will need to learn more about cleaning up the push buttons. The start/stop button works fine but seems a little sticky but the 45 rpm button can't be pushed as it will stick and not want to come out of 45. That is fine as I only own 33 rpm vinyl. I pulled the bottom cover off to try to see what was entailed to get to the buttons to clean but decided to wait for instructions from someone who has done one. The problem with that is there simply aren't that many of these tables around. Meanwhile now that it is back in 33 rpm and has a new AT440MLb it really sounds great. The auto return works and shuts off like it is supposed to.
You are lucky: actually there is one of the most complete and well illustrated instruction for a SL-1501, the manual sister of your SL-1401:
http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=72034
Lot's of stuff to see and learn in that thread.
http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=72034
Lot's of stuff to see and learn in that thread.
Recently found my box of albums in storage, so decided to look for a decent turntable to start spinning again. Right off the bat, found a cheap, scraggly, SL-1500 ... tonearm tube broken off, no dustcover, small dent in a corner of the plinth ... just my type! It followed me home. At the same time, also acquired a couple of salvaged Rega RB-250 tonearms (one wired, one not) and what appears to be a tonearm from a Kenwood KD-2070/3070/5070. The Rega's look a little bit scruffy, but seem functionally OK. One of them has holes drilled all along the length ... not sure if it came that way from the factory or was a custom mod, although I'm leaning toward custom mod. (No, it's not from Michell Engineering ... drats!). Anyway, the 1500 is going to become my "project" table. Can't wait to get started!
As luck would have it, also picked up two other working tables recently: SL-1700 and a Pioneer PL-50.
Right now, I feel like Marvin Dorfler in Midnight Run when he says " Am I lucky, or am I just good?" LOL
Looking forward to sharing my experiences with my "project" 1500.
At the same time, also acquired a couple of salvaged Rega RB-250 tonearms (one wired, one not) and what appears to be a tonearm from a Kenwood KD-2070/3070/5070. The Rega's look a little bit scruffy, but seem functionally OK. One of them has holes drilled all along the length ... not sure if it came that way from the factory or was a custom mod, although I'm leaning toward custom mod. (No, it's not from Michell Engineering ... drats!). Anyway, the 1500 is going to become my "project" table. Can't wait to get started! As luck would have it, also picked up two other working tables recently: SL-1700 and a Pioneer PL-50.
Right now, I feel like Marvin Dorfler in Midnight Run when he says " Am I lucky, or am I just good?" LOL
Looking forward to sharing my experiences with my "project" 1500.
Thanks! Looks like the ticket for the sticking buttons is to remove the boards and lube them. Going to read that thread when I get some reading time..You are lucky: actually there is one of the most complete and well illustrated instruction for a SL-1501, the manual sister of your SL-1401:
http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=72034
Lot's of stuff to see and learn in that thread.
