PM me with your e-mail address.
Sony TA-F6B Resto
- Thread starter thefragger
- Start date
ST70fan
New Member
thefragger: Hi again - not sure if you're still following this thread, but if so I'm having quite an adventure getting mine up and running again. The saga can be followed here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/181121-sony-ta-f6b-psu-repair.html
I noticed a couple of things which you may be interested to note. First is the service manual contains an error in regards to Q602 and Q604 - both of these are actually 2SC1810's, not the 2SC1775Fs mentioned in the service manual (for the UK model - US/Canadian should be 2SC1962 & 2SC1811!).
Secondly, I noticed from your strip-down pictures that the four switching transistors on the underside of your PLPS board are C2023s. From the service manual these would appear to be for the UK model, and not for the US/Canadian version which should have 2SC1986s fitted.
Is yours a UK model switched to 110V?
Do you happen to have any pictures left of the left side of the PLPS by any chance? I am sure Q601 and Q613 have been replaced on mine, but seeing a picture of someone elses would be cool just to confirm (they're going to have to be replaced on mine anyways).
Really looking forward to hearing mine in action, as long as I can get this PLPS up and running nicely
Cheers,
- John
P.S. I hope you don't mind I used two of your pictures in the above thread. Once I get my original Sony manual through next week (managed to find an original on Ebay) will scan and replace them.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/181121-sony-ta-f6b-psu-repair.html
I noticed a couple of things which you may be interested to note. First is the service manual contains an error in regards to Q602 and Q604 - both of these are actually 2SC1810's, not the 2SC1775Fs mentioned in the service manual (for the UK model - US/Canadian should be 2SC1962 & 2SC1811!).
Secondly, I noticed from your strip-down pictures that the four switching transistors on the underside of your PLPS board are C2023s. From the service manual these would appear to be for the UK model, and not for the US/Canadian version which should have 2SC1986s fitted.
Is yours a UK model switched to 110V?
Do you happen to have any pictures left of the left side of the PLPS by any chance? I am sure Q601 and Q613 have been replaced on mine, but seeing a picture of someone elses would be cool just to confirm (they're going to have to be replaced on mine anyways).
Really looking forward to hearing mine in action, as long as I can get this PLPS up and running nicely
Cheers,
- John
P.S. I hope you don't mind I used two of your pictures in the above thread. Once I get my original Sony manual through next week (managed to find an original on Ebay) will scan and replace them.
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
I'm not at home right now so I'll have to double check, but I think mine may be the international version because iirc there's a voltage switch on the back.
I'll check my computer when I get back for more photos--I know I took lots but I didn't upload all of them.
It looks like you've got some great help over at DIY Audio helpin' you out! Way over my head, that's for sure.
I'll check my computer when I get back for more photos--I know I took lots but I didn't upload all of them.
It looks like you've got some great help over at DIY Audio helpin' you out! Way over my head, that's for sure.
ST70fan
New Member
I'm not at home right now so I'll have to double check, but I think mine may be the international version because iirc there's a voltage switch on the back.
I'll check my computer when I get back for more photos--I know I took lots but I didn't upload all of them.
It looks like you've got some great help over at DIY Audio helpin' you out! Way over my head, that's for sure.
Haha much of it is over my head too - though I'm just about keeping my head above water with it all over at DIY Audio at the moment (after reading the posts literally dozens of times!). Hoping to get the psu working again over the weekend. Fingers crossed!
cc43fan
I'll sleep when I'm dead
I picked up one of these amps a few months ago, and I'm finally getting around to working on it.
Time to resurrect this thread...Hopefully.
The amp works (meters and lights as well), but I know it's will need a complete recap.
I sent thefragger a PM...god, I hope he remembers...lol
Time to resurrect this thread...Hopefully.
The amp works (meters and lights as well), but I know it's will need a complete recap.
I sent thefragger a PM...god, I hope he remembers...lol
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
I'm jealous.
This amp is the apple of my eye and used close-to-daily, and I still don't have lit meters yet!
Can't wait to see what you've got. :thmbsp:
cc43fan
I'll sleep when I'm dead
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
Yup, yours is prettier than mine. :drool:
If and when you get to restoring it, I'd love to know what voltage you read across the meter lamp! I'm sure I could calculate the current... might be difficult to read that directly.
If and when you get to restoring it, I'd love to know what voltage you read across the meter lamp! I'm sure I could calculate the current... might be difficult to read that directly.
cc43fan
I'll sleep when I'm dead
I measured 6.0 VDC across the Blue/Brown leads. I assume this measurement is for the lamps as the Red/Black leads measure in MA and increase as the meter movement increases.
Question for you....how do you remove the leads from the PCB's? I noticed clear plastic "plates" with pins through them and soldered wound lead wires connected.
Below is a pic that must be better than my description...
I completed my first SS task...cleaning up the ALPS Attenuator. It got removed from the PCB, a DeOxit bath, lubed and replaced. Smooth as silk, and quiet as it should be. The Digikey parts order has been sent (Thanks Philip!) And so the SS journey begins.
Last edited:
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
I unwrapped the wires from the pins, then rewrapped and soldered when I reinstalled them. My experience has been that they're not soldered on as-is.
If you can loosten the wrap, it can just slide off the pin.
If you can loosten the wrap, it can just slide off the pin.
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
Looking good!
Your PS board is different than mine... neat.
Oh, also! The metal case at the back houses the phono section. There are some caps in there! I think you're fine if you ordered extras, though... sorry for the lack of a heads-up! I think I just had the parts on-hand or I used extras from the other sections in there... can't quite remember recapping that to tell you the truth.
School's been insane this last week; brain's all melty.
Your PS board is different than mine... neat.
Oh, also! The metal case at the back houses the phono section. There are some caps in there! I think you're fine if you ordered extras, though... sorry for the lack of a heads-up! I think I just had the parts on-hand or I used extras from the other sections in there... can't quite remember recapping that to tell you the truth.
School's been insane this last week; brain's all melty.
cc43fan
I'll sleep when I'm dead
Ahh, yes, the melty brain...I couldn't always decide if it was classes or the night before that did that to me 
Roger that on the phono scetion. I'm sure I've got plenty of caps. Did you follow the procedure for adjusting the meters? I'm assuming I can use a computer to generate a 1kHz tone?
Roger that on the phono scetion. I'm sure I've got plenty of caps. Did you follow the procedure for adjusting the meters? I'm assuming I can use a computer to generate a 1kHz tone?
thefragger
Certified Crazy.
Ahh, yes, the melty brain...I couldn't always decide if it was classes or the night before that did that to me
Roger that on the phono scetion. I'm sure I've got plenty of caps. Did you follow the procedure for adjusting the meters? I'm assuming I can use a computer to generate a 1kHz tone?
I did not adjust my meters, one of them sticks anyways at just under the 1W marker.
Would love to know if you try it, though!
