Sony TTS-4000 Plinth Build
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totem
Addicted Member
Personally I would not consider shellac although I have used it due to a specific colour I was after, something like a quality wipe on
crosslink poly sanded and polished will give very good results with a modicum of tools like spraying that sort of thing.
If you have a sample of the laser cut edge material I would be wanting to see just how it reacts to sanding
and accepting some or any topcoat.
The above is just my 2 cents worth.
crosslink poly sanded and polished will give very good results with a modicum of tools like spraying that sort of thing.
If you have a sample of the laser cut edge material I would be wanting to see just how it reacts to sanding
and accepting some or any topcoat.
The above is just my 2 cents worth.
I do have a piece of the leftovers with the endgrain I can test finishing steps on.
malden
Addicted Member
Shellac will not yellow as much as varnish, if at all. As I stated in the preceding post, shellac dries fast but is not as durable as varnish or polyurethane.
I have a can of the wipe on poly already. 
malden
Addicted Member
It gives a much smoother finish than regular brush on poly. If I'm refinishing a piece of furniture, I'll use brush-on poly for the base coat and maybe even the second coat because it goes on thicker and then apply the wipe-on poly with a lint-free rag.
I let each coat dry for 24 hours before sanding with 220 grit and applying the next coat.
I let each coat dry for 24 hours before sanding with 220 grit and applying the next coat.
I've found blue shop towels to be one of the most lint free applicators.
My recollection is if you expose it to direct sun, then after a time it will yellow. (This assumes you are using a clear (white?) shellac. You can buy shellac that starts out a bit orange.) Of course, that also assumes you will be putting the shellac on not as a temporary block but as a permanent topcoat. In that case, you should consider applying multiple (3, 5, 8?) coats, rubbing gently with steel wool after each coat is dry. Elapsed time is not very long as shellac dries quickly. Coat of wax after is optional - if this was a table-top you want the wax to protect the shellac from the alcohol in a spilled beer. Hopefully not a consideration for a turntable.
scoville
Active Member
Shellac would be damaged by a drop of stylus cleaner. I'd go with the wipe on poly, 20 coats with light sanding between, Then 4XXXX steel wool for the last few coats. Be shure to use a tack cloth between coats. They are disposable, and cheap. Dampen and bag all rags in a plastic bag for disposal, they can self ignite.
Nice looking project!
Nice looking project!
homebrew
Super Member
Shellac comes in several flavors. Get the "clear" shellac in pint cans. I use the Zinsser brand. I like to dilute the shellac 3:1 with denatured alcohol and wipe it on with a soft cloth. Use continuous passes or a circular motion and don't go back over a spot while the shellac is wet. You need to work fairly quickly because it dries pretty quick. Sand with 400 grit stearated paper (that type doesn't clog like regular sandpaper.) You can apply 3-4 coats in a couple of hours. Keep the finished piece out of the sun and it won't yellow like urethane will. And if you want to get really crazy, sand the last coat smooth then spray on lacquer like Deft for a finish coat.
Ordered the epoxy for the bentonite mix. Should be here next week. In the meantime I'll be working on fitment of the armboards prior to starting finish work. I don't want to do any major finishing until the functional work is done. Less chance of damage to the final finish if it's the last thing completed.
Had my first real hiccup. Drilling the TT mounting holes for the threaded inserts blew out the ply towards the inside of the TT cutout. The cutout was sized per Sony's instructions and didn't leave much meat to begin with.
I'm installing the threaded inserts with paste epoxy and a dam to hold it in where the blowout happened. It'll thankfully be hidden in service.
In the future I'd likely choose an insert meant for metal with much less meat to it and bond it in or just cut a slot and make a threaded metal ring on the bottom side of the plinth and simply drill clearance holes or make slots for the fasteners. I may still do that here if this looks too ugly in the morning.
I'm installing the threaded inserts with paste epoxy and a dam to hold it in where the blowout happened. It'll thankfully be hidden in service.
In the future I'd likely choose an insert meant for metal with much less meat to it and bond it in or just cut a slot and make a threaded metal ring on the bottom side of the plinth and simply drill clearance holes or make slots for the fasteners. I may still do that here if this looks too ugly in the morning.
totem
Addicted Member
Exactly what I did, they are much smaller in dia and allow close to the edge placement.
I actually buried them slightly to aid in bonding securely since they are smooth on the od, tip if your going to do that insert a threaded stud
and wrap it with teflon tape to allow the epoxy to flow over the top lip and not enter the threaded portion.
Live and learn I guess. Fortunately it's in an area that won't be visible once it's finished.
I'm wondering if the Laser cutter went a little generous on the tolerance on the diameter of the cutout, or if Sony oversized the callout. I test fit the table and there's probably 1/16"-1/8" of back and forth play in the hole when none of the fasteners are installed. I'll have to put some shims in to make sure the table stays perfectly centered.
Come to think of it, that might be a reasonable solution to the blow outs. If I can find some 1/16" or so hobby ply or hardwood I could easily bond it on over the defect. I'll have to swing by michaels on my way home today and see what I can find.
totem
Addicted Member
I found the clearance very tight on the Victor also, considering they were originally using screws by the time you add the od of the insert
dimensions start to increase quickly. That said I prefer all threaded removable fastening especially for repeatable positioning over time
for the armboards but did use it for everything else.
Are you saying you prefer to have threaded inserts?
If so, me too. Anything that gets removed or changed out at any frequency has to have a durable thread.
In other news the cutout for the control box is bang on. The box looks great when seated and is just snug enough not to rattle around.
If so, me too. Anything that gets removed or changed out at any frequency has to have a durable thread.
In other news the cutout for the control box is bang on. The box looks great when seated and is just snug enough not to rattle around.
We have music!
More work and details to come. I've had family visiting so progress has been slow, but my dad bought the table for me so I've worked to get it setup enough to make music before they head back to California.
More work and details to come. I've had family visiting so progress has been slow, but my dad bought the table for me so I've worked to get it setup enough to make music before they head back to California.
