SPEC 2 Filter Cap Purchase Source

Question: The white cloth-like sleeve that covers much of the wiring in the SPEC 2...I thought it was thermal sleeving. I am trying to locate a source on the internet for this but my searches aren't turning up much. Should I be calling it something else in my searches and if so, what? I am trying to find a source for it so I can replace some of the worst (scorched, stained or dis-colored) sleeving in my SPEC 2 restoration.

Thanks.

Mark
 
Do the Ceramic caps and diodes on the Meter board need to be changed out?

I just placed an order for the 22000uF/100V caps, Bourns pots, a relay for the Meter board and some transistors thru Digikey.

I was also able to confirm the component values on The Meter board match the schematic values. Hopefully, I'll be able to get the rest of the transistors and caps (I'll need some help with the caps I think) on order this week-end.
 
Question: The white cloth-like sleeve that covers much of the wiring in the SPEC 2...I thought it was thermal sleeving. I am trying to locate a source on the internet for this but my searches aren't turning up much. Should I be calling it something else in my searches and if so, what? I am trying to find a source for it so I can replace some of the worst (scorched, stained or dis-colored) sleeving in my SPEC 2 restoration.

Thanks.

Mark
https://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeving-insulation/=16bcydq
 
I spent some time this afternoon sourcing the Meter board transistors thru Digikey and Mouser. I'm having difficulties with two of them as follows:

Q12, Q14, Q15 2SC1384 (Digikey: KSC2682YSTU-ND, no stock)(Mouser: 512KSC2682YSTU, no stock)
Q13 2SC945 (Digikey: KSC945CLTA-ND, no stock)(Mouser: 512-KSC945CLTA, no stock)

Is there another source for these (or another sub part number)?

Also, Q17 (2SB507)...Digikey has a KSA940TU-ND available but I'm not sure if it is the same part as Mouser's 512-KSA940TU_Q. Not sure what the "Q" is. Can anyone help?

I'm working the caps parts as I am writing this. Thanks in advance.

Mark
 
Thanks for the info, avionic. Mcmaster hadn't crossed my mind on this one. I suspect the front meter panel foam trim will come from here also.
 
The soft start circuit tends to die on these, which is why the breaker is tripping. On the circuit board next to the power switch you have a big 4R7 resistor. It's probably open. Replace with a new part with a 10-25W rating and you're golden.

Hi, ZOOM.

Do you mean R67 (4.7uF, 5Watt)?
 
What I've had more problem with is the irreplaceable 10uf 160V NP electrolytic cap in the soft-start circuit. Been replacing with 10uf film caps, like this one: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF%2bfZ13WJ/r1/bmkDB6h6ZgE=

A lot of resistors on the Spec gear have the fiberglass weave on them. It is simply there to prevent the open burning of a resistor in the event of a catastrophic failure. If a failure does occur and the resistor needs replacement, using a flameproof resistor negates the need to use the weave.
 
I have the following info for my capacitor hunt from last night for the Meter board:

C1 - C4 1uF/25V (Baby Blues) (Sub with Mouser 647-UPW1H010MDD) no stock
C19 10uF/160V (Sub with Mouser 647-UPW2C100MPD) no stock

C5 - C8 220uF/6.3V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC0J221B) stock
C9, C10 470uF/6.3V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC0J471B) stock
C11 470uF/16V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC1C471) stock
C14, C15 22uF/35V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC1V220) stock

C16, C17, C20, C21 10uF/35V (Sub with Mouser 647-UPW1V100MDD) stock

I'm a little confused with Mouser's Nichicon part number. The "U" in front of the PW. I know EchoWars said Nichicon PW or HE caps would work. Are the UPW parts the same as the PW?

Also, there are a few different flavors of the Panasonic FC caps from Mouser. Example: 667-EEU-FC0J221B and 667-EEU-FC0J221. I couldn't find any info in the data sheet that indicated what the "B" in the 667-EEU-FC0J221B part meant.

Are the parts above that show "stock" good to use?

Are there subs for the "no stock" parts (which are on order at Mouser) in my list above with the exception of C19 which EchoWars has indicated a sub for?

Lastly, I'm not familiar with the "baby blue" caps, C1 - C4. I thought they were Tantalums from appearance. These are Electrolytic caps?

Thanks in advance for any help with my questions.

Mark
 
UPW=PW
UHE=HE

'B' or 'H' suffix refers to a tape reel designed for machine insertion.
LhSF2.png


Without that suffix, it's just a pile 'o parts (which is preferable for our use).

I cannot remember if those original 1uf caps on the meter driver circuit are tantalum or not. They probably are. The beef with tantalum are that (1) the early tantalum caps from the 70's and 80's were not terribly reliable, (2), in the audio path, they simply do not sound good, and (3), they do NOT take overvoltages or reverse voltages well, whereas an aluminum electro can tolerate reasonable overvoltages pretty easily. So for the last few years I've not automatically been replacing tantalum caps with aluminum or film, unless the cap is in a position where overvoltage is possible or where the cap is carrying an audio signal. I may (and often do) simply replace the old tantalum with a new one with the voltage stepped up to the next tier.

I like Kemet or Vishay/Sprague: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/T350A105K035AT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22ZBQR9LXYg3mpRoVNONMwyU=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sprague/199D105X0035A1V1E3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22Vj5BA8TfnA1wF/HZx1OS4c=
 
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For EchoWars:

Why won't this part (P5856-ND from Digikey) work for the 10uF/160V cap on the Meter board? Is it because of the NP (Non-Polarized?) characteristic?

Just curious.

Mark
 
For EchoWars or markthefixer (at your convenience):

I have C1-C4 and C19 (Meter board) covered thanks to EchoWars.

Will the parts listed below be acceptable to use on the SPEC 2 Meter board?

Caps:
C5 - C8 220uF/6.3V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC0J221B) stock
C9, C10 470uF/6.3V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC0J471B) stock
C11 470uF/16V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC1C471) stock
C14, C15 22uF/35V (Sub with Mouser 667-EEU-FC1V220) stock
C16, C17, C20, C21 10uF/35V (Sub with Mouser 647-UPW1V100MDD) stock

Transistors:
2SA733 Q11 Digikey part - KSA733CYTACT-ND or Mouser part - 512-KSA733CLTA
2SA725 Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6 Digikey part - KSA992FBU-ND or Mouser part - 512-KSA992FBU
2SD313 Q16 Digikey part - KSC2073TU-ND or Mouser part - 512-KSC2073TU

Are there any suitable subs for the parts below? Digikey/Mouser showed no stock:

2SC1384 Q12, Q14, Q15 Digikey part - KSC2682YSTU-ND or Mouser part - 512-KSC2682YSTU
2SC945 Q13 Digikey part - KSC945CLTA-ND or Mouser part - 512-KSC945CLTA
2SB507 Q17 Digikey part - KSA940TU-ND

Thanks loads in advance for any help and all the help provided so far. I'm getting ready to place a parts order.

Mark
 
Panasonic FC or FM, and Nichicon PW or HE.

The KSC945CG will do fine for the C1312.

Also for the 2SC945 (Q16, Meter Board)? The data sheet found at Mouser (Fairchild/On Semiconductor) also shows the KSC945CGBU as a sub for the 2SC945. I'm starting to get a little confused.
 
The last two letters simply signify that it is a 'bulk' purchase, i.e., a pile 'o parts, as opposed to parts on a tape roll designed for machine insertion.

As to your previous Q's, the caps are fine, but I am against a wholesale replacement of transistors unless you have some specific reason for doing so (with the possible exception of the A725, in which case your sub is fine).
 
Thanks for the response EW. In most of the restoration threads for both the SPEC 2 and 4 I have read on the AK forum, transistors are replaced along with the caps as a matter of course (due to age I suppose). Of course, some are replaced to fix problems, too.

Clarify, please. The KSC945CGBU is a sub for both the 2SC945 and the 2SC1312?

Thanks again.

Mark
 
The C945 isn't used much for audio amplification, though myself and others have often wondered why, since there's really nothing about its specifications that would exclude it from such duties. But since manufacturers tend to shy away from the part for audio amplification duties, I sort of follow their lead.

All this is to say that the specifications for the C1312 can easily be matched and bettered by the C945C (the 'C' suffix simply denotes a 'center collector' part for this specific Fairchild KSC series component), and if the C1312 you are wanting to replace is not doing audio amplification duties, then the C945C will do a fine job. If it were to be used where it is actually amplifying audio, it still would probably be fine, but I'd lean towards using something like the KSC1845 in its stead.
 
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Thank you. I'm going to make an assumption here for the C945C and also the FM and FC series of Panasonic caps that both the Meter board and the P/S board would be fine with these parts (non-audio amplification) whereas I would want to use the KSC1845 and FM series of Panasonic caps on the output Driver boards (audio amplification) if possible. Yes?

I'll look at the data sheets for these transistors to get a better understanding of the component specs and comparable subs. I'm still learning.
 
OK. I'm down to my last three transistor subs. Can someone bless these for me before I order them?

I have looked at the data sheets for the stock parts and subs and the numbers for the subs are comparable (= to or greater than) to the stock parts. If I understand the data sheets correctly, like capacitor voltage values where a higher voltage rating than the original part will work, I should be OK with the parts listed below.

2SC1384 (Q12, Q14, G15, Meter Board) - Mouser 512-KSC2690AYSTU (or AYS), in stock
2SC945 (Q13, Meter Board) - Mouser 512-KSC1845FTA, in stock
2SB507 (Q17) - Mouser 863-MJE15031G, in stock

Appreciate the forum's help in advance.

Mark

(Whoops...or I could just use the Mouser 512-KSC945CGBU for Q13. Didn't see my previous post).
 
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Restoration update:

The rest of my parts are starting to trickle in.

IMG_1.jpg

The wire-wound resistors replacing the ones installed on two of the filter caps are quite a bit smaller than the originals but still 3 watters.

IMG_2.jpg

Here are some "before" pictures of what I am having to deal with on this restoration:

IMG_3.jpg

Side panels will need repaint. This is a dual voltage unit.

IMG_4.jpg

I have been asked why I wanted to replace the relays. These may be functional but they look like crap.

IMG_5.jpg

I was thinking I might replace some of the wiring if it doesn't clean up well.

IMG_8.jpg

Other fingers have been in this SPEC 2 before me. I believe the meters are both supposed to be wire-wrapped.

IMG_10.jpg

There is some history behind this SPEC 2 on the AK forum. I have included a link to the thread that started this restoration from awhile back if anyone is interested in looking:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-spec-2-restoration-help.148523/

I am still trying to figure out how to fully access the Power Supply and Meter boards. If I can disconnect the wires that are attached to the meters at the board, that would give me a little more wiggle room. I think they need to be a bit longer anyway. Not much service loop there.

Anyway work finally progresses.
 
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