Stumbled on these Altecs at the thrift
- Thread starter Rmac587
- Start date
Good question. They seem to be in good shape in terms of no deterioration. I'm a bit reluctant to touch them given that doped material is super tacky and I'm not sure how to replace and "redope." I'll try the other options and if that doesn't work take them to Speaker Pros in Orange County for a recondition.
Finjima
Well-Known Member
I found this, [QUOTEhttp://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?11435-Questions-on-Altec-Flamenco-848A/page2&p=121276#post121276][/QUOTE] they talk about using acetone. I too have acetone on my AR's for removing excessive goop. in a attempt to make the surrounds compliant, it take some work to get it off so don't worry about over doing it off the bat. you can remove a reasonable amount, clean it up and give it a listen after it dries out and post pics! you can always take more off later if u want
gdmoore28
Super Member
Interesting thread on the 3000 series tweets. First time I've found pics with complete disassembly of the entire unit.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/181069-altec-601c-3000-a.html
GeeDeeEmm
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/181069-altec-601c-3000-a.html
GeeDeeEmm
elitopus
Addicted Member
Interesting thread. I had not seen inside one either.
I like how the guy made a Dayton dome tweeter fit inside the 3000 assembly. Thats a good idea for those who have blown these tweeters and don't want to pay an arm and a leg for a replacement.
bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
I must have been sleeping, or the OP's pics weren't working for me early in the thread.
Those cabinets are too small, and ported for a very different LF section than what's in a 601. They lack three very important factors, baffle area, volume, and porting. These factors are absolutely required to get the realistic extended bass and seamless silky smooth mids that make Altecs famous.
You can play with the surround dope til the cows come home, it won't change the physics of a woofer in far too small a box and not properly ported. If stiffness from excess dope had any audible effect at all it would only be in the very lowest bass frequencies. There's nothing functionally wrong with the dope on those surrounds, it's a cosmetic issue and you'll find it far easier to make them look worse than better. Don't try to fix what ain't broke.
I'd strongly suggest that you research the cabinets Altec put the 601 in. They were of the size and porting used for good reason.
According to Altec, the 601 was optimized for cabinets as small as 2-1/2 ft3, but typically marketed them in cabinets closer to 3-1/2 or 4 ft3. All of them have at least a few inches of flat baffle area all the way around the driver opening, this is key to keeping their response smooth and flattish in the lower octaves.
Those cabinets are too small, and ported for a very different LF section than what's in a 601. They lack three very important factors, baffle area, volume, and porting. These factors are absolutely required to get the realistic extended bass and seamless silky smooth mids that make Altecs famous.
You can play with the surround dope til the cows come home, it won't change the physics of a woofer in far too small a box and not properly ported. If stiffness from excess dope had any audible effect at all it would only be in the very lowest bass frequencies. There's nothing functionally wrong with the dope on those surrounds, it's a cosmetic issue and you'll find it far easier to make them look worse than better. Don't try to fix what ain't broke.
I'd strongly suggest that you research the cabinets Altec put the 601 in. They were of the size and porting used for good reason.
According to Altec, the 601 was optimized for cabinets as small as 2-1/2 ft3, but typically marketed them in cabinets closer to 3-1/2 or 4 ft3. All of them have at least a few inches of flat baffle area all the way around the driver opening, this is key to keeping their response smooth and flattish in the lower octaves.
bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
In a word, no. It's 99.998% cosmetic
They should have been heated prior to removal, the damage to the gasket/baffle wood would not have occurred. OP is lucky he didn't leave part of the cone, gasket, and surround stuck to the baffle.
Pretty much nailed it I think Bowtie. Some of the vintage Altec literature indicated a smaller cab, but these seem to be the wrong dimensions regardless. I was surprised by the doped stuff running down-it pulled a bit of the paper off the top of the gasket on the first one, bit otherwise ok. I was more careful with the second one. Luckily, no major damage.
Lansing Heritage has the Altec cabinet plan books in the library, including the recommended cabinet for the 601.
Specifically, it's in the 1974 Enclosure Manual. The 12" Duplex plans.
bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
It's not a "one box fits all" situation, unless you go with the larger box i suppose. Maybe what i should say is that "ideal" varies across the various models where cabinet parameters are concerned.
The LF of the 601C differs a good bit parametrically from the 601A or B, 35hz vs 55 hz Fs for starters. It wants a larger box and different porting than it's predecessors.
The LF of the 601C differs a good bit parametrically from the 601A or B, 35hz vs 55 hz Fs for starters. It wants a larger box and different porting than it's predecessors.
Last edited:
Sam,
I did stumble on that 1974 plan, just over 3ft3. I also wonder if a 614 cabinet would work with a smaller cutout. One image I came across indicated that the same cabinet would sometimes go with a 12" or 15" depending on the letter designation following cab model number. Example, the 620a cabinet was for 15", the 620b a 12".
And as Bowtie notes too, the porting is different between various 601.
I think I'm going to part these out, as much as I want to keep them. I was daydreaming of a low power SET and these, but it could be a real rabbit chase. Sigh....
I did stumble on that 1974 plan, just over 3ft3. I also wonder if a 614 cabinet would work with a smaller cutout. One image I came across indicated that the same cabinet would sometimes go with a 12" or 15" depending on the letter designation following cab model number. Example, the 620a cabinet was for 15", the 620b a 12".
And as Bowtie notes too, the porting is different between various 601.
I think I'm going to part these out, as much as I want to keep them. I was daydreaming of a low power SET and these, but it could be a real rabbit chase. Sigh....
Last edited:
Tomlin,
This weekend I finally finished the Crites install plus some mods suggested by Moray James. In regard to your Chorus II, DO IT. All of the mods. Entirely new Crites xovers were superior to just recapping. I also replaced the mid-diaphragm as well as tweeter, although Bob indicated it wasn't necessary to do the mids.
I also: dynamated the woofer struts on both sides (active and passive), same for horn bodies, back of tweeter motor, and back of woofers. I braced cabs below woofer (in this case I lined up brace with bottom woofer screw holes to draw it in tight) and braced over woofer on either side.
So easy man. Small investment for big return. Subtly better separation between instruments, much better bass control, more articulate mids and highs. Man.... latest update.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/my-klipsch-forte-i-rebuilding-journey.706910/
I got around to installing my Crites networks several weeks ago and am very happy with the improvement...the titanium tweeter sounds even better and resolution is noticeably improved. With a Pass F5 clone it's a pretty impressive combination...approaching Altec 19 level performance.
GeeDee, I'm glad you shared this. I pulled the driver last night and the tweeter tested OL! UGH! &@&$! That was it all along. All I was hearing was the woofer! The other driver tests good all around. Now I'm worried I'll kill the other one. ARG!
gdmoore28
Super Member
You are most welcome. I've been keeping a keen eye for a 601 with a non-working horn for no reason other than trying to find a way to "repair" them. Looks to me that the fellow in the article has come up with the most viable solution pending original diaphragm reproduction.
Using his article as a basis, looks to me that it would be possible to use another horn driver if the proper modifications were done.
GeeDeeEmm
Using his article as a basis, looks to me that it would be possible to use another horn driver if the proper modifications were done.
GeeDeeEmm
Can you offer some advice on baffle size/dimensions Garth? I was planning on that, but now that I've blown one of the tweeters, im not sure. I'm tempted to try the fix posted on diyaudio.
Peace, Rmac
