Larry posted this in one of my rebuild threads. The part about the amp boards apply to the SX-1010. I think the SX-737 can be accessed without un-mounting the board. It should be a sticky:
Generally how it's proposed. Fix it 1st, THEN Resto. Power supply 1st. Then with the power supply voltages tamed, work back from the PROTECTION BOARD 1st, Main AMP, Tone Control , preamp, Eq boards. Replace all of the Electrolytics, and the listed transistors. When you order the transistors, download and print out the data sheets. You WILL NEED them for the transistor pinouts, which in 99% of the cases are different than the originals.
When you re-install or replace the outputs, use new mica insulators and white silicon based heat sink compound, NO ARCTIC SILVER!. Some guys use thermal pads, but I don't care for them on the higher powered units.
This ain't a weekend job. Maybe a month of weekends. GO SLOW and work ONE BOARD at a time. If you run into a question or problem, STOP, ask the question or state the problem and WAIT for the answers here.
Test after each board so you have a limited repair area to worry about. Take the manual down to office depot and ask them to blow up the main schematic to a as large a size and still read everything clearly. Mark with a red sharpie each part replaced as you replace them. When you get a board done and it proves out ok, put an X thru the board drawing. This way there is no ambiguity as to what you have done on the boards and which boards are done. If there is a question on what part # to be used for a particular part and it's not on the list, STOP AND ASK!
On the tuner board there is really nothing on a general overhaul addressed except a couple of caps that MARK THE FIXER (MTF) has mentioned in the past. Do nothing else to the tuner, except cleaning the variable cap(VC) with NON-RESIDUE ELECTRONICS CLEANER such as CRC "QD" Electronics cleaner (home depot has it in electrical dept.) There is a thread on cleaning the VC in either the General Audio or DIY Forums. DO NO ADJUSTMENTS ON THE TUNER UNLESS YOU HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE AND EQUIPMENT to ADJUST.
To get slack in the wiring so you can lift boards, undo the wiring looms from the clips they are held in. DO NOT UNWRAP THE WIRE FROM THE PINS. If you must, as a last resort, De-solder the WHOLE PIN from the board and tag it (a roll of masking tape comes in handy for this stuff). Get a couple of thick towels the wife allows you to screw with. Use these when you dis-assemble the AMPLIFIER BOARDS from the chassis along with the heatsinks. The towels come in handy to insulate the amp boards while un-mounted and you have to power up for short periods of time.
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!! On the STV-3 or STV-4 Diodes. They are mounted either on the main heatsinks, or on one of the board transistor heatsinks. Either way loosen the screw carefully and dis-engage the STV WITHOUT BENDING THE LEADS within 1/2" of the STV. If they break, contact MTF by PM and ask nicely if he could/will repair them. He has a jig he uses to repair them with very good success. This is your LAST resort to saving them, as replacements are only available on PARTS RECEIVERS. They aren't available anywhere else to my knowledge.
Make sure you have a good soldering Iron with extra tips, soldering flux (rosin type), 60/40 or 63/37 Rosin core solder (brand doesn't matter too much, although KESTER is probably the best but more expensive) Rat Shack stuff is OK, and does a good job. You'll also need a DE-SOLDERING TOOL, either a suction syringe, DeSoldering iron, or a plain squeeze bulb. (I use all 3 for different jobs.)
Your meter: INSULATE the PROBE ENDS with heatshrink or Tape leaving only the absolute end tip exposed. This keeps the "AW SHIT's" and Magic Smoke to a minimum or alleviates them altogether in case the probe slips. Get some MINI GRABBERS. These come in handy for those tight small areas. FRESH BATTERIES with spares! A few alligator jumpers come in handy. At least 18" long.
