Tandberg receiver info?

Ziradog

Ziradog

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Just wondering if there is a site (or sites) that describe the various series of receivers made by Tandberg? Looking for general info about the differences, strengths/weakness, etc. Thanks.
 
Well there is AK where there are numerous discussions about Tandberg receivers. If you need specs and tech info there are a couple sites with flyers, brochures, service and owners manuals. Google should bring up hifiengine and the sportsbil sites.
 
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I think TR20?? models are best buy for servicability.
I remember having a lot of trouble replacing the power switch in a TR1040. If the pushbutton rows of switches in that series have a problem, you may have a big problem fixing or having it fixed, especially if the switch is mechanically defective.
Myself, I have a site page on fixup of the TR2075, I probably already posted somewhere on AK already http://members.quicknet.nl/gerard.slikker/tandbergtr2075.htm

In my country, maybe because of the 'type of people' buying Tandberg, it seems compared to other brands the average Tandbergs seem well preserved or they simply last long.

Forum member jdurbin1 knows about all the flaws of all different units, he probably soon chimes in
 
Thanks. I see a lot of information on specific units, I was hoping to find information more in general. Your comments about the TR1040 are most helpful.
 
Well general info about the units is something that can be collected from the brochures and such. I don't know if there is a list of this info out there, hence the recommendation to get the documents.

The strengths and weaknesses of the different models is discussed here on ak. You will need to put in the model nber in a search but it will return the comments about the specific unit. As stated jdurbin1 has written about a few of the models. I believe he prefers the 2075 over the 2080 but I don't remember why or which version. But I know he has discussed this on ak and that thread can be found with a search.

Sorry I can't point you to all the answers on one page but I don't know that it exists like that.
 
After a long drought, I see several for sale locally, mostly 2025 & 2045's. I'm not actively shopping, but I am curious.
 
I'd take the Euro outlook on the early vs. later series differences with a grain of salt. Personally I think it speaks to a regional lean towards warmer sonics which is fine but the later pieces are IMO more accurate and not at all harsh or clinical in the process. I absolutely do not favor cap-coupled output stages over direct-coupled designs personally, but again I think there's a rose-colored mystique to some of that stuff from early days.

The kicker for me is that the 1000-series and related models from that era are all at an age where you can almost count on degraded signal path and other performance issues, which tends to be less of an issue as you get into the later 2000-series and the 3000-series & 4000-series components. They're also much less tech-friendly and since I do my own repairs/restorations, that matters to me.

As to the RIAA preferences, it's a well-established story with credible people posting about it (including here on AK) and I won't try to argue it, but I've got no issues with the 2080 and my 3000-series pieces in that department.

I do own a few units from further back: TA300 integrated, TR 200 receiver, an old Solvsuper in a small cabinet with built-in speakers, and a TR 1020 but I would not pick any of those as a first choice for listening to daily. My 2080 and 3000-series systems get the nod for that.

Because of my bias towards the newer series, I am a littler weak on the chronology prior to that (I got interested in Tandberg around the time the TR 2075 MkII was being sold) but here are some basics (this will be US-centric so not going to try and cover the Huldra and Solvsuper models):

  • Smallest cabinet/earlier: TR200, TR220 (including some larger 220 models with built-in cassette or turntable e.g. TR220 GC)
  • Slightly larger cabinet/followed the TR 2xx stuff with some overlap: 1000-series: TR 1000, 1010, 1020, 1020A, 1040 (A and P variants), 1055. The TR 1055 is likely the best of these IMO, but it is not single-ended/cap-coupled as are some of the earlier/smaller models in that list.
  • First-gen TR 20xx series: started in 1975 with the launch of the TR 2075 flagship, sold as "three components in one" message, i.e. you did not have to give up component-level performance when you bought a 2075. That first series also included ther TR 2025 and TR 2055. They can be distinguished by the knobs having deeper/square fluting and inset black pointers.
  • Gen 2 TR 20xx: 2075 is replaced by the 2075 MkII which incorporates numerous internal improvements made to the 2075 design over its production lifespan. New version of 2025 and 2055 are offered and a new model called the TR 2040 complete that series, which sees the older knob type replaced with a clear-anodized satin finish knob with shallower scalloped fluting. It was being exposed to the TR 2075 MkII in 1976 which turned me into a diehard Tandberg enhusiast (hence my avatar).
  • Gen 3 TR 20xx: blue displays are gone, replaced by amber. This was down to changing out the blue acrylic panel for a smoked gray/brown panel and similar change to the back panel colors for the two tuning meters. 2025 is replaced by 2030, 2040 is replaced by 2045, 2055 is replaced by 2060. The 2025 to 2030 and 2040 to 2045 changes are largely cosmetic and slight uptick in power rating. 2055 to 2060 is more drastic: they added AM to the 2060 (only model other than the three flagship models to have AM) and it went in the smaller chassis that the 2025/2030/2040/2045 all share. Also got pushbutton tuning. I've had an acquaintance that designed audiophile gear for a living lavish praise on the 2060, said it was the most accurate/neutral receiver from that era he had ever heard. Doesn't seem like the 2060 gets that level of respect in terms of market value, though. Top of the line for this generation was the 2080 which launched in 1977/78 timeframe and continued in production through the introduction of the 3000-series.
  • There is one later receiver model, the TPR 3080A (Tandberg Programmable Receiver). It has the cosmetics of the later 3000-series with black anodized aluminum fascia and cabinet, and grayish satin-finish knobs. Kind of a cool piece, but rare and sonically I think a step back from the 2080/2075 MkII.

John
 
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jdurbin1 said:
The kicker for me is that the 1000-series and related models from that era are all at an age where you can almost count on degraded signal path and other performance issues, which tends to be less of an issue as you get into the later 2000-series and the 3000-series & 4000-series components. They're also much less tech-friendly and since I do my own repairs/restorations, that matters to me.
Click to expand...

I think TR1000/10 are the only cap coupled designs of the 10XX -series. I may be wrong though.
I've restored TR1000 and I would say it's easier to work on than say average Marantz receiver.

Amp section on TR1000 is a module type, that slides out from the back of the receiver, when you remove the wire connectors. Power supply section can be lifted to the service angle by removing 4 bolts from the top. The wires are plug-in "service friendly" and very well marked on the each board to connect each wire, if you need to remove them. You cannot mess it up.

Volume pot can be problematic, if it's got issues. Pots are well sealed, so design is to prevent dirt from entering into them. I deoxited them by spraying on top of them. It looks like there's a wide tiny space to treat them from the top or maybe I am just lucky, that this unit didn't have any issues with pots.

In my opinion older generation Tandbergs are stigmatized as difficult to work on, because they're just different design from the general Japanese design.
I read those daunting posts about servicing an old Tandberg receiver before getting TR1000, but realized after restoration process it's just different, not difficult.

Only issue I have with this receiver are the RCA input connectors.
I just need to work a little more with them. These issues could be present on the 20XX -series as well.

I didn't find any posts on AK regarding TR1000, so might be there is no US-version at all.
Here are few shots before the restoration.

The Sound you hear after restoration is very musical, silky smooth with outstanding punch just as the legend dictated about TR1000. It's solid gold.
The magic touch of the cap coupled design.
 

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TR 1020 is cap-coupled for sure - I have one sitting at home opened up and it has four huge caps in it, two for the single-ended PS and two for the output stage. Outputs (unloaded) rest at ~ 1/2 of B+ too.

I agree with you on the reality that sometimes "different = difficult". Having done many 2000-series before I saw my first 1000-series, I was looking for something equally user-friendly and didn't find that. I am sure if I got thru more of the 1000-series I'd feel a little differently but I don't think repetition will totally overcome that initial perspective, the 2000-series are just easier to work on. They come apart easier, there's more room inside, boards can be disconnected w/o soldering most of the time, etc.

I didn't have a Japanese receiver or component repair background, so these units are my wheelhouse so to speak - but that wheelhouse tilts towards the later stuff... YMMV of course.

John
 
jdurbin1 said:
TR 1020 is cap-coupled for sure - I have one sitting at home opened up and it has four huge caps in it, two for the single-ended PS and two for the output stage.
the 2000-series are just easier to work on. They come apart easier, there's more room inside, boards can be disconnected w/o soldering most of the time, etc.
Click to expand...

Did you restore your TR1020 yet?
The internet is scarce on pictures and detailed information regarding the TR1020.
While you have it apart, could you post few pictures from inside of it?
I see it's got AM, which is not present on TR1000.

Agreed, the 20XX -series got more room inside and it's easier to open up, while 10XX -series seem more compact and got tiny bolts instead of easy go screws.
Just to confirm, no wires needed unsoldering to service the TR1000.

In my opinion 10XX -series got better button feel. Buttons feel heavy and solid when pressed, but 20XX -series got better knob feel.
 
I have not restored it, but it is currently open - will try and get some pics this weekend. Don't remember if it's plain 1020 or 1020A, either.

The 1000-series buttons are definitely heavier in their action, but I prefer the lighter action on the 2000 - just a personal preference. That said, although neither is immune to oxidation/flakiness, the 2000-series have given me a lot less trouble as far as deoxidizing/getting rid of noise etc. Could just be a function of age, but they fail so badly on the old ones that it's a miracle if you get any sound out of one on initial power up, w/o having to deox or repeatedly cycle the switches. The first-gen 2075 had one switch that was that bad, the Tape 3 rec switch at far right of the lower row. It almost always has to be thoroughly deoxed to get stable output on both channels.

The plastic switch arms on the 2000-series are getting more fragile with age and not unusual to see one crack. That can be repaired though; not sure the 1000-series had that particular issue, the switch mechanisms are much shorter/direct.

John
 
Mr. Nick, did not get as far as taking those pictures this weekend... still on the list to do, though.

John
 
Ok, no problem John. Thanks for the reply.
I'm looking forward, until you find some time to snap a few pictures :)

Thumbs up :thumbsup: for your effort to restore your TR1020.
Just for heads up, you might end up liking it better over 20XX -series.
 
jdurbin1 said:
I'd take the Euro outlook on the early vs. later series differences with a grain of salt. Personally I think it speaks to a regional lean towards warmer sonics which is fine but the later pieces are IMO more accurate and not at all harsh or clinical in the process. I absolutely do not favor cap-coupled output stages over direct-coupled designs personally, but again I think there's a rose-colored mystique to some of that stuff from early days.

The kicker for me is that the 1000-series and related models from that era are all at an age where you can almost count on degraded signal path and other performance issues, which tends to be less of an issue as you get into the later 2000-series and the 3000-series & 4000-series components. They're also much less tech-friendly and since I do my own repairs/restorations, that matters to me.

As to the RIAA preferences, it's a well-established story with credible people posting about it (including here on AK) and I won't try to argue it, but I've got no issues with the 2080 and my 3000-series pieces in that department.

I do own a few units from further back: TA300 integrated, TR 200 receiver, an old Solvsuper in a small cabinet with built-in speakers, and a TR 1020 but I would not pick any of those as a first choice for listening to daily. My 2080 and 3000-series systems get the nod for that.

Because of my bias towards the newer series, I am a littler weak on the chronology prior to that (I got interested in Tandberg around the time the TR 2075 MkII was being sold) but here are some basics (this will be US-centric so not going to try and cover the Huldra and Solvsuper models):

  • Smallest cabinet/earlier: TR200, TR220 (including some larger 220 models with built-in cassette or turntable e.g. TR220 GC)
  • Slightly larger cabinet/followed the TR 2xx stuff with some overlap: 1000-series: TR 1000, 1010, 1020, 1020A, 1040 (A and P variants), 1055. The TR 1055 is likely the best of these IMO, but it is not single-ended/cap-coupled as are some of the earlier/smaller models in that list.
  • First-gen TR 20xx series: started in 1975 with the launch of the TR 2075 flagship, sold as "three components in one" message, i.e. you did not have to give up component-level performance when you bought a 2075. That first series also included ther TR 2025 and TR 2055. They can be distinguished by the knobs having deeper/square fluting and inset black pointers.
  • Gen 2 TR 20xx: 2075 is replaced by the 2075 MkII which incorporates numerous internal improvements made to the 2075 design over its production lifespan. New version of 2025 and 2055 are offered and a new model called the TR 2040 complete that series, which sees the older knob type replaced with a clear-anodized satin finish knob with shallower scalloped fluting. It was being exposed to the TR 2075 MkII in 1976 which turned me into a diehard Tandberg enhusiast (hence my avatar).
  • Gen 3 TR 20xx: blue displays are gone, replaced by amber. This was down to changing out the blue acrylic panel for a smoked gray/brown panel and similar change to the back panel colors for the two tuning meters. 2025 is replaced by 2030, 2040 is replaced by 2045, 2055 is replaced by 2060. The 2025 to 2030 and 2040 to 2045 changes are largely cosmetic and slight uptick in power rating. 2055 to 2060 is more drastic: they added AM to the 2060 (only model other than the three flagship models to have AM) and it went in the smaller chassis that the 2025/2030/2040/2045 all share. Also got pushbutton tuning. I've had an acquaintance that designed audiophile gear for a living lavish praise on the 2060, said it was the most accurate/neutral receiver from that era he had ever heard. Doesn't seem like the 2060 gets that level of respect in terms of market value, though. Top of the line for this generation was the 2080 which launched in 1977/78 timeframe and continued in production through the introduction of the 3000-series.
  • There is one later receiver model, the TPR 3080A (Tandberg Programmable Receiver). It has the cosmetics of the later 3000-series with black anodized aluminum fascia and cabinet, and grayish satin-finish knobs. Kind of a cool piece, but rare and sonically I think a step back from the 2080/2075 MkII.

John
Click to expand...

John, thank you for that very sweet breakdown of Tandbergs. I'm scoping one myself. In that they all seem so fantastic, I'm not sure I'm going to be very particular as to which. Aiming for 40 watts and up. Condition and function will likely be the biggest factors.

I appreciate all your guys' input.
 
Hi all. I'm new in this forum and found a lot of great information yet! I have finished restoring a Tandberg TR-2030. Now, I would like to adjust all the internal adjustment pots to the factory values. Does anyone know what are the test points related to all these pots? Photos with arrows pointing would be great! Tx
 
You can do that using two available documents that cover the salient points.

This one is specific to the 2030 schematically-speaking: http://sportsbil.com/tandberg/tr-2030-circ.PDF

And this one, the full TR 2025 service manual, has the step-by step for all electrical alignment: http://sportsbil.com/tandberg/tr-2025-sm.pdf

Read the 2025 manual first, and follow it for your servicing but refer to the 2030 as needed in case there are any minor differences in the actual measurement or location of test points. The 2030 replaced the 2025 and is extremely close in design anyway. This process actually covers all of the smaller chassis models: 2040, 2045, and 2060 have Circuit Diagrams service docs but only the 2025 has the full manual but because Tandberg built them very much the same aside from some differences in power and preamp features, the 2025 manual is a useful reference for all other than it won't tell you how to align the AM on a 2060 :)

John
 
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