Tandberg TR 2030

Thocom

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I picked up a Tandberg TR2030 that was a basket case, was disassembled and in a box. I had no background on it, but since all the lamps were new, and the old ones were in there, as well as 5 pin DIN connectors with RCAs that someone was going make an interconnect with so I kind of assumed that that was what the original owner was working on. The power switch was broken too.

I fixed that and powered it up, when using the cable on Tape or phono, it sounds very good. No issues, pops when turned on and off a little but, otherwise it's ok.

When the tuner is engaged, it's not happy. Random motor boating sound, flickering, relay pulling in and out..
is there any known issues with these that someone can point me in the right direction?
It also has an interesting festoon 12V lamp built on the board? Is that some sort of dim bulb setup? A current limiter maybe?

It's a very nice looking receiver, with nice rosewood end caps and top. I think I'd like to use it in the bedroom with a pair of AR2AX speakers if I can get it working well.

IMG_9517.JPG IMG_9514.JPG

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That Frako probably has to go. John, jdurbin1, will be along shortly to answer your questions. He did for my 2045. They do look good and that chassis is interesting and fun.
 
That Frako probably has to go. John, jdurbin1, will be along shortly to answer your questions. He did for my 2045. They do look good and that chassis is interesting and fun.

Yeah, I'm sure a bunch of the caps are end of life.. there in probably lies the problem, but thought I'd ask if this was a common issue.
 
I cleaned all the switches and pots. Everything sounds good, except the tuner. I only have one channel (the right) when the tuner is on.
I measured a bunch of the caps (the 1000uf Frako and a bunch of the 100uF) on the preamp board and they all are within spec.
*Edit: I got audio out of both channels after cleaning trim pot R242 on the tuner board. Audio from the tuner is still "oscillating" though. Thump thump thump..
This is a very nice piece of equipment to work on, everything is spaced nicely, and layed out very well.

It would be nice to get it 100% working.
 
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Get rid of that 1000uF/63V Frako - that's the filter for the regulated +25V rail that - among other things - runs the FM tuner.

The festoon lamp is in fact a current limiter for that same circuit. If it gets noticeable brighter when you engage FM (somewhat brighter is normal), there's probably bad components somewhere on the FM board that are pulling excess current.

Also the only relay in this is the protection relay, so whatever is going on in the FM circuits is causing problems elsewhere but again that +25V supply needs to be clean & robust as a first step.

The popping isn't normal either, suggests some DC offset in places where it shouldn't be. Maybe board grounds... or failing caps elsewhere. I'd do that one cap replacement first, then watch the +25V line and see what it does when you engage FM.

John
 
There is no parts list in terms of the PCB components. Tandberg did that very rarely by this point, so the schematic is your only source of component info.

John
 
Done. Had to use a radial cap since that's all I had in a 1000 uF , but I made it work.
The tape monitor sounds great with my iPhone as a source.

The current limiter is much dimmer than it was, but the tuner is exhibiting the same issues.
All the lamps are dimming with the problem too, so it's obviously other issues on the FM tuner.
Going to have to track down the culprit(s).
 
There is no parts list in terms of the PCB components. Tandberg did that very rarely by this point, so the schematic is your only source of component info.

John

Got it, thanks. That will save me the time looking for it.
 
Tcominsky, The parts list on Hi Fi Engine looks to be the major parts list of the chassis, switches. HiFi Manuals.com has SM, Brochures, for the TR-2030.
 
Tcominsky, The parts list on Hi Fi Engine looks to be the major parts list of the chassis, switches. HiFi Manuals.com has SM, Brochures, for the TR-2030.

I noticed that, thanks. They were very good about about the chassis documentation. Kinda the reverse of Mcintosh, where they detailed all their parts, but chassis, buttons and knob drawings are scarce.
 
Get rid of that 1000uF/63V Frako - that's the filter for the regulated +25V rail that - among other things - runs the FM tuner.

The festoon lamp is in fact a current limiter for that same circuit. If it gets noticeable brighter when you engage FM (somewhat brighter is normal), there's probably bad components somewhere on the FM board that are pulling excess current.

Also the only relay in this is the protection relay, so whatever is going on in the FM circuits is causing problems elsewhere but again that +25V supply needs to be clean & robust as a first step.

The popping isn't normal either, suggests some DC offset in places where it shouldn't be. Maybe board grounds... or failing caps elsewhere. I'd do that one cap replacement first, then watch the +25V line and see what it does when you engage FM.

John
Is it possible to use a 1000uF/50V Nichicon as a replacement for the 1000uF/63V Frako? Since this is 25V rial voltage. (I still have those nichicons in stock, otherwise I will have to order the 63V) Old topic, but someone might tell me. Thanks!
 
Is it possible to use a 1000uF/50V Nichicon as a replacement for the 1000uF/63V Frako? Since this is 25V rial voltage. (I still have those nichicons in stock, otherwise I will have to order the 63V) Old topic, but someone might tell me. Thanks!
According to the attachment, this concerns 40V DC voltage, so I think a 50V capacitor should suffice. Can anyone confirm that? Thank you.
 

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