Technics SU-G91

Discussion in 'Solid State' started by snobnob, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. snobnob

    snobnob New Member

    I'm new to hi-fi but I've been looking around goodwills and thrift stores recently and I found a Technics SU-G91 amp with a matching tuner, tape deck, and a pair of speakers I didn't recognize. It's listed at $125, is this a good deal? Also, as a newbie, what should I check for in the system?
  2. Water

    Water New Member

    Unless the speakers are something worthwhile there is no way I'd pay $125. I think they are highly overpricing it. Nothing special about Technics gear. You can probably find something better on Craigslist or keep looking in thrifts.
  3. snobnob

    snobnob New Member

    Ok, thanks
  4. GuyNoir

    GuyNoir Here at the Western World Subscriber

    Doesn't the "SU" denote a Class A amp? From what I've been able to gather, that's a 130 watt per channel amp.
  5. deaner33

    deaner33 Drew loves Thin Lizzy

    Maybe "New Class A" which ain't Class A. The amp should be decent though for that era.
  6. ev13wt

    ev13wt New Member

    Are you just being rude or plain ignorant? Totl Technics gear is really really nice stuff.

    Or google Se A1 SU A2... Both items, if you can find them, which I highly doubt, will be very expensive. Find me a A2 that works and I will buy you a new small car.

    For about, 1500+ you can, if you find one, get a SE A3 MKII. It is to me the most beautiful amp ever produced.

    I won't start about the turntable that was used in every radio station and club in the world.
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2011
  7. ryuuoh

    ryuuoh FFXIV Summoner Subscriber

    I have a modest SU 8080, circa 1977. Cast aluminum faceplate, dual mono design. I bought one in in 1978 and sold it, a few years ago I bought a used one and repaired/recapped/refurbed it. I like it, it works well with my efficient speakers.
    Bottom line, you need to do your research before judging Technics.
  8. SVI2004A

    SVI2004A Synchro Bias Subscriber

    G91 is circa 1992 130W/ch with 20watt surround channels. Punchy amp, tho heatsink is too small. Make sure the cooling fan works if you crank it up (try this with no speakers connected) put spkr A on and then when the power meters head to the 10w bracket the fan oughta kick in. Other than that this amp doesnt have any bad points.

    Oh ev13wt Im fortunate enough to have 2 SE-A3MK2 power amps I love em!
  9. ev13wt

    ev13wt New Member

    You don't need two, you should just send me one!

    I know where I can get one, I'm still saving up for it. The "government" of the house will kill me if I just go out and spend 1500 on some amp, although she likes the looks of it too. I almost got an A5, but it doesn't really compare.

    I admit, I am a bit envious. :)
  10. Cogsinister

    Cogsinister Member

    I also have a beautiful SU 8080 and the ultra rare SU-V909.(in Technics Black/Brown)....both wonderful amps....
  11. jz1276

    jz1276 New Member

    I really need some help getting a remote to operate the SU-G91. I did some research and I found the RAK-SA902MH remote is supposed to operate the SU-G91 so I found one on ebay and bought it. Got it the other day but it doesnt work with it. I also have the ST-K55 tuner which it doesnt work with either. Here is what I am guessing...
    on the back of the amp (SU-G91), there is an input for a cable that says "remote". Now, there is no sensor on the front of the unit for a remote, but there is one on the front of the tuner. I think the tuner I have isnt supposed to pair up with the amp that I have because there is no output for a remote cable on the back of it. I did however find a tuner on ebay (ST-K50) which does have the output for the remote cable. So I'm assuming this tuner I found on ebay is made to be paired up with the SU-G91 which will accept the remote command and send it to the amp through the remote cable. Before I go and replace the tuner I currently have with the one from ebay, I just wanted to make sure if my assumption is correct. Thanks!
    Also, it looks like just a regular headphone jack cable (double sided of course) will send the remote signal. Is this also correct?
  12. elduce

    elduce New Member

    You are correct the ST-K50 will work with this.I have the SU-G70 amp and that's what came with it.These amps run hot so it's not a bad idea to reflow all the solder joints.
  13. jz1276

    jz1276 New Member

    So the ST K50 will work with BOTH the SU-G70 and the SU-G91?
    Also, what type of cable do you use to sene the remote commands from the tuner to the amp?
  14. jz1276

    jz1276 New Member

    Two more ?'s about this amp. First, I'm assuming it came as a system with the tuner/cd player, etc. Does anyone know the model of the CD player it came with?

    Second, I'm having some problems with the spkr. terminals. I have to keep repeatedly moving the wire bc the sound keeps cutting out. Anyone know how I can fix this? Thanks.
  15. Cogsinister

    Cogsinister Member

    The speaker terminals on Technics amps are notorious for being cheap and prone to breaking, i have a couple of quite high end Technics amps that are let down by those cheap " twist-on " speaker terminals.

    If the set of terminals for speaker "A" is bad try using the set for speaker "B" and see if that helps.

    In the long run replacing the terminals with decent heavy Banana plugs would be the best option to avoid trouble.
  16. SVI2004A

    SVI2004A Synchro Bias Subscriber

    The G50/70/90/91 all use the push tab down to lock in deal... The issue you have is a dry joint where theyre soldered to the pcb
  17. SVI2004A

    SVI2004A Synchro Bias Subscriber

    in this series the A and B are connected in series (due to the wayyyyyyyyy undersized heatsink) so the fault will stay, though you could try from A+ to B- which will skip half the joints in there
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2011
  18. jz1276

    jz1276 New Member

    Is it an easy job to do?
  19. Cogsinister

    Cogsinister Member

    Well if you are a bit handy with a soldering iron and of a mechanical turn of mind its not all that hard if your careful.
  20. jz1276

    jz1276 New Member

    I have been using the speaker B inputs as someone suggested which works good. I would however like to fix the soeaker a inputs but I dont know what "dry joint" means. They just need to be re soldered?

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