The first 2385 I've seen. Guy wants me to go through it, make ready for sale

zebulon1

Working on my own stuff. Finally
Subscriber
Is there any known issues on these fine receivers?
The seller wants me to clean it up and take care of anything that a buyer might run into.
Trouble is, I never had one in for repair.
It looks like a bigger 2255B which I had to repair. Nice robust set.
The plan is to:
Repaste the mounted transistors.
Deoxit treatment. Starting on it
Check/set the amp settings. Done
Clean the set of dust and make it presentable.
 
I'm not an expert but this is what I found on mine (basket case)
Need to detach the front to get access to front boards.
Whatch out the molex conectors ( a loooot of them)
R863 on P850 can get very hot is a 5w 150Ω, I would upgrade that.
A lot of resistors on mine where out of specs with heat stress signs on P700
Check the resistors on the soft start circuit and inrush limiter too,(kind of under rated too)
 
Depends on your market as to whether it is worth the time and effort to do a full re-cap, just due to age. Some people are willing to pay a premium price for a fully restored unit, but I don't know your market as to whether this is actually a significant "value-added" option.
 
The 2385 along with the 2500 are the two most complicated Marantz units to work on.
They have two pairs of boards in the front that plug into each other with a bizillion plugs on the left two .
You have to remove all these boards just to get at them to properly clean the switches/pots.
They also have the unobtainable dual main filter caps all of which are in some progression of failure mode from my actual discovery from gutting them for restuffing during restoration.
Once properly restored they are a great unit but until then they can be troublesome.

Bob
 
Cleaning the tone board and switches requires a fair amount of disassembly. Not fun at all. Also, be sure to clean the interconnects on the back panel. There are levers in the jacks that lose contact and drop signal.
 
Great tips.
I was looking at the tone board and access to the pot and switches. A little head scratching ensued.
Thanks for the wisdom.
 
Great tips.
I was looking at the tone board and access to the pot and switches. A little head scratching ensued.
Thanks for the wisdom.

IIRC: Remove faceplate and bottom plate. Remove lock washers for tone controls. Board should be free. Flush and flush and flush because no testing possible between baths.
 
They are complicated but not as bad as many others you have worked on.
Taking the face off, you may need to unplug the mounted circuitry that should be stuck to the face.
Taking the front loose on the chassis is the easiest to get into the rat nest.
Tape the dial cord on the tuning pulley. Then you can get the rest loose.

When I got mine, one channel wouldn't work.
The connectors on the boards on the controls are wire wrapped and someone had been in there.
The wrapping was loose on the last turn on the wire enough to cause the wires to short.
Once found, all fixed.
Lesson, watch those connection.

When I first worked on it, I was daunted by the puzzle, but it really isn't bad once you deal with it.
They are a beast on the bench though.
 
As bad as the SA-1000?

;)

There was an opening, I had to take it!

I couldn't of asked for a better set of members to respond to my Thread. :thumbsup:
 
As bad as the SA-1000?

;)

There was an opening, I had to take it!

I couldn't of asked for a better set of members to respond to my Thread. :thumbsup:
Weight-wise no, it isn't as bad. I wrestled an SA-1000 through a complete refurb including all new LEDs (and there were many). I have a 2385 in the wings that has had the front panel items cut loose with dangling wires sticking out. The search for the parts needed is under way but it will be getting a full recap. It is indeed the junior version of the horribly designed (mechanically) 2500/2600 unit. Several varieties of alcohol are recommended: some for the unit and some for YOU! :D
 
You wieners!

The 2500 is a piece of cake!

Fruitcake, but still.

The 2385 and 2500 are just big versions of receivers.
The little units are like working on a room, the big units are like working on a building.
 
It looks worse than it is, but it's not for the faint of heart. Removing the front chassis was the easiest way I could see to get to the "Rat Nest".

marantz 003 - Copy.jpg
 
You've got it!!!
Just be really careful when plugging the pushbutton switch boards back into their lower boards.
The pins are really fragile and easily bent.

Bob
 
Just take a ton of pictures.. You will be fine.

While you're in there you might want to clean the tuning cap...
 
The Deoxit cleaning and lube turned into a recap. Heck, It's all exposed.
I have most of it done.
Looking into restuffing the big cans. That's about all that's left.
I remember I had restuffed a Marantz 140 several years ago. Most recently to a Sansui 9000.

The 2385 along with the 2500 are the two most complicated Marantz units to work on.
They have two pairs of boards in the front that plug into each other with a bizillion plugs on the left two .
You have to remove all these boards just to get at them to properly clean the switches/pots.
They also have the unobtainable dual main filter caps all of which are in some progression of failure mode from my actual discovery from gutting them for restuffing during restoration.
Once properly restored they are a great unit but until then they can be troublesome.

Bob
 
Last edited:
I restuffed one once.
The new caps "just" fit, back-to-back with lead wires attached.
It was a tight fit.
IIRC, coring the 2385 cans was not tough. The 2500 cans are a pain, but I got a method.
Recently, a heat gun has turned out to be a good friend.

Maybe they have caps now that are slightly shorter.
Luck.
 
Back
Top Bottom