The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)

BrianAAA said:
Well, I think it is safe to say I screwed something up in the preamp circuitry, but I have no idea what it is or if I can fix it. The pre out into another good amp has the same problem. I unscrewed the volume control pot and as expected it had oil in it. I have had it open and drying for two days now. The first day it got a bit better, I could faintly hear the music at %50 vol, but now for some reason it has gone back to nothing until %100. If there are any more steps I can do to narrow down the problem I would like to try them. I am obsessed with finding out what I did to learn from it and because of a bit of OCD.

I was thinking of putting an external volume control in line with the cd out to use the amp section when I realized I already have one. The headphone out on the CD player. I assume it is the same quality as the line out in the back but with a volume control. It is ghetto but it does work. As I said I would like to continue trouble shooting if there are any more ideas.
Click to expand...

Oerets said:
In theory contact cleaner is non conductive, at least the ones I use. You could try a zero residue plastic safe cleaner. Not one with a lube. Something like this http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-2315 or LPS also makes a good one.

Set it up on the side with the weight on the bottom on newspaper and clean it up. Working all the controls. Let it dry completely.

Do yourself a big favor if thinking of working on others. Build a dim bulb tester for the future.


Barney
Click to expand...

This is probably your next step.
 
So before putting the knobs back on, should I lube each post? They were fairly gunky as if there was some sort of lubrication on them originally.
 
Just so you know- Deoxit does attack the phenolic substrate used in most controls. Many of those controls are unobtanium. Considering this fact, it is oversold. Just being honest.

The safer approach to cleaning controls and many switches is to use Contact cleaner with a follow up of faderlube or LPS-1, or just use LPS-1 to achieve both cleaning and lube. I have used it for years with no problem and have yet to find a plastic that it would have an issue with.

Don't ge me wrong. Deoxit does have some uses, such as cleaning tube pins, and some switches- but if a switch appears to be phenolic, or have phenolic parts- beware youmight be causing further problems. And some people would just dunk their amp in the stuff if it were not so expensive- which is bad news and cannot be suggested except in jest. Deoxit can also be used to clean up the metal jumpers often found on amps that allow for an equalizer to be added into the audio path, but you are taking a big risk when you apply to audio controls.

The other really significant advantage of LPS-1 is simply the fact it is not conductive- so it can be used on live circuits with some care (it is flamable), but it is not conductive. This comes in handy so you can gauge your progress, plus also determine if a control is just worn out without having to wait so long.

There will be some who will disagree with me- Fine- I have been working on these things since the 1970's and I have yet to encounter a potentiometer that was damaged by LPS-1. I also have zero connection with the company.

Now, I have heard from some people who have used WD-40, I cannot suggest this as anything but a last resort above using Deoxit on a piece of unobtanium (as I have seen how well WD-40 works as an adhesive).

Just because the lemmings are heading for the cliff does not mean you have to do so as well.
 
Thanks! Very good to know. Great write up. Tfff


Sent from my galafreyan transdimensional communicator 100 years from now. G
 
Easy Reach Cleaner Tubes

I posted this earlier in another thread I think. But for anyone using Deoxit or any spray type cleaner/lube, forming the tips on a couple of the red plactic application tubes can be a huge help.
I used a butane candle/grill lighter with the flame set to low an inch or two from the tube and rotated it between my fingers as I warmed the red plastic tube. You don't want to get too close or it will melt and/or collapse the inside of the tube. When the tube starts to soften as evidenced by it starting to SLIGHTLY soften and sag as you rotate the tube. . . . STOP heating it. Wait a second or two and gently bend the offset, U shape or any other shape you desire.
I find the near 180 degree U shape to really help get at controls that would otherwise be near impossible to get at without complete disassembly.

 
Since Radio Shack seems to no longer carry Deoxit, I am assuming a store like Guitar Center is the place to go?

I am only going to be doing one receiver at first, but I have a second one that is starting to get crackly.

From what I can gleen here, this is what I need.

Deoxit Red
Deoxit Gold
Deoxit Faderlube

Is this correct? Can someone post a link to the actual products so I know I am picking up the same stuff?

To Phase700B (or anyone that uses the stuff), I have many cans of that CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I am assuming this is safe to use? I was thinking of using this stuff first to give the pots a bath, followed by the Deoxit stuff. When I give most of the knobs a spin on my Marantz, it feels like there is dirt in there.
 
Thought I would give an update here. I have found a source that carries the DeOxit products we seem to use. Fry's has most of the products listed in this thread. Pricing is similar to what Guitar Center sells it for, but Fry's has more choices. When I went to GC, they only had the 100% DeOxit Red. I was able to get from Fry's: DeOxit Red, Gold, and FaderLube in the larger bottles.

Hope that helps someone here. :)
 
Trio said:
Just so you know- Deoxit does attack the phenolic substrate used in most controls. Many of those controls are unobtanium. Considering this fact, it is oversold. Just being honest.

The safer approach to cleaning controls and many switches is to use Contact cleaner with a follow up of faderlube or LPS-1, or just use LPS-1 to achieve both cleaning and lube. I have used it for years with no problem and have yet to find a plastic that it would have an issue with.

Don't ge me wrong. Deoxit does have some uses, such as cleaning tube pins, and some switches- but if a switch appears to be phenolic, or have phenolic parts- beware youmight be causing further problems. And some people would just dunk their amp in the stuff if it were not so expensive- which is bad news and cannot be suggested except in jest. Deoxit can also be used to clean up the metal jumpers often found on amps that allow for an equalizer to be added into the audio path, but you are taking a big risk when you apply to audio controls.

The other really significant advantage of LPS-1 is simply the fact it is not conductive- so it can be used on live circuits with some care (it is flamable), but it is not conductive. This comes in handy so you can gauge your progress, plus also determine if a control is just worn out without having to wait so long.

There will be some who will disagree with me- Fine- I have been working on these things since the 1970's and I have yet to encounter a potentiometer that was damaged by LPS-1. I also have zero connection with the company.

Now, I have heard from some people who have used WD-40, I cannot suggest this as anything but a last resort above using Deoxit on a piece of unobtanium (as I have seen how well WD-40 works as an adhesive).

Just because the lemmings are heading for the cliff does not mean you have to do so as well.
Click to expand...


It's funny you should mention this.

A few years ago i got hold of an 80's JVC amp with all slider controls, the volume slider was very scratchy, so i applied deoxit, within a few minutes the slider was seized solid !

I am VERY cautious now on what controls i apply deoxit, if in doubt i use 99% IPA.
 
Looks like this thread is open for a question. :)

I've already applied the regular DeOx to the relay contacts, and of course after that, I read in the stick to NOT apply DeOx to those contacts.

I know for sure about this but can't think of how DeOx would damage the relay? I just wanted to loosen up any carbon, then I used paper on the contacts. I'll wait for a day or two before putting the cover back on the relay.

Why sticky says no DeOx on relay contacts?

EDIT: I went ahead and finished with the relay since I had already sprayed it. Applied voltage to the relay, and papered both sides, each while "pinched" Heh.
 
Last edited:
Hmm, the deeper we get into this thread, the more people come out who've had problems with Deoxit. It's leading me to believe that the issues I'm having with my amp can just be lived with as opposed to potentially making things worse.

Home Depot carries a contact cleaner and an "electrical grade" multi-purpose lubricant. The brand is CRC. Has anyone tried these?

http://www.homedepot.com/s/contact%20cleaner?NCNI-5
 
I just tried some of Home Depot's CRC contact cleaner on a $8 Goodwill Technics SA-5060 receiver. It worked great. All the pots move completely free now and there's no static when adjusting them. I used some of the lubricant on the function selector and the tuner (both are plastic gears). That seemed to help. Also squirted some of the cleaner in the headphone jack.

I think I might do it on my main system(s) now since I at least know it won't wreck anything.
 
That was my experience as well. The CRC stuff I used was the plastic safe stuff. I followed up with either FaderLube or DeOxit Gold.
 
Starquest said:
Hmm, the deeper we get into this thread, the more people come out who've had problems with Deoxit. It's leading me to believe that the issues I'm having with my amp can just be lived with as opposed to potentially making things worse.

Home Depot carries a contact cleaner and an "electrical grade" multi-purpose lubricant. The brand is CRC. Has anyone tried these?

http://www.homedepot.com/s/contact%20cleaner?NCNI-5
Click to expand...

Link don't work.
 
Ok...after reading and sifting through this thread and looking at all the deoxit...and the fact it's late...my brain is fuzzed up.

Would this work:

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-DN5-M...ie=UTF8&qid=1407640014&sr=8-7&keywords=Deoxit

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-GOLD-...e=UTF8&qid=1407633907&sr=8-10&keywords=Deoxit

...and then a small bottle of the deoxit:

http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Elect...UTF8&qid=1407640146&sr=8-5&keywords=Deoxit+d5

Are these the three that are being suggested by the OP?
 
souphippie said:
Ok...after reading and sifting through this thread and looking at all the deoxit...and the fact it's late...my brain is fuzzed up.

Would this work:

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-DN5-M...ie=UTF8&qid=1407640014&sr=8-7&keywords=Deoxit

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-GOLD-...e=UTF8&qid=1407633907&sr=8-10&keywords=Deoxit

...and then a small bottle of the deoxit:

http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Elect...UTF8&qid=1407640146&sr=8-5&keywords=Deoxit+d5

Are these the three that are being suggested by the OP?
Click to expand...

Those prices are fair eye watering for tiny size sprays.
 
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